What did you do with your Range Rover today

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Replaced the jubbly clip as it was leaking again, been out today to do lots of nobbing about with a trailer, got a bit hot idling at one point but probably still a bit of air again, which seems to be working it's way out. Don't think the LPG helps as the pipes are the highest point
 
Vogueman said:
I hope so, she was taken on the back of a recovery truck this mornin' for her " surgery".
Click to expand...
Here is a question, prior to checking this rust out, they had removed the side steps, which were corroded, with an angle grinder. When I mentioned I would like them re installed, I was informed it would be very expensive, because they would have to remove the fuel tank. I don't believe that, you would need to drill out the old bolts, but that's it. they didn't want to do it, so came up with this porkie pie.
 
I had a play with my rovacomlite diag and got it working for some reason it was not working right the last few times i tried, so whilst it was i adjusted the pump and got it to a modulation of 54 at 86 degrees i know it should be at a higher temp but thats got to be better than 80 modulation , sounds better as well so will call that a win :)
and noticed a bit of water on the drivers floor mat so looks like the plenum and trims will be coming of soon:(
one step forward and one back:rolleyes:
 
Think i need to invest in a leak down tester.
Coolant pressure seems to rise very slowly over time once it gets up to temp. After a long while if guess it's closer to 20psi than 15 :(
If i let it idle up to 92c then the top hose is still squishy, go for a 30 min drive and it's much more firm
 
kermit_rr said:
Think i need to invest in a leak down tester.
Coolant pressure seems to rise very slowly over time once it gets up to temp. After a long while if guess it's closer to 20psi than 15 :(
If i let it idle up to 92c then the top hose is still squishy, go for a 30 min drive and it's much more firm
Click to expand...
Probably no coincidence i keep getting a leak
 
kermit_rr said:
Think i need to invest in a leak down tester.
Coolant pressure seems to rise very slowly over time once it gets up to temp. After a long while if guess it's closer to 20psi than 15 :(
If i let it idle up to 92c then the top hose is still squishy, go for a 30 min drive and it's much more firm
Click to expand...
I know air can get drawn in when you get a coolant leak, that's a known and proven fact. But can that air cause higher than normal system pressure by way of hot spots/micro boiling?
I guess I'll only know if i cure the leak and the pressure settles down
 
Vogueman said:
Here is a question, prior to checking this rust out, they had removed the side steps, which were corroded, with an angle grinder. When I mentioned I would like them re installed, I was informed it would be very expensive, because they would have to remove the fuel tank. I don't believe that, you would need to drill out the old bolts, but that's it. they didn't want to do it, so came up with this porkie pie.
Click to expand...
Have they damaged them removing them with an angle grinder? I'd guess they have, which is why they want to feed you a BS line to put you off getting them to do it.
Personally, when a garage spins me this kind of ****e, I just don't go back there. I do most of the stuff myself now though!
 
kermit_rr said:
I know air can get drawn in when you get a coolant leak, that's a known and proven fact. But can that air cause higher than normal system pressure by way of hot spots/micro boiling?
I guess I'll only know if i cure the leak and the pressure settles down
Click to expand...
I'm not an expert, but I always thought that that was the risk with air in your coolant system (anywhere other than the top of the expansion tank).
 
kermit_rr said:
I'm wondering if my cheap britpart expansion tank is causing an issue too.. it 'seems' to work...
Click to expand...
I avoid Britpart (or ****part) at all costs for anything that needs to actively do something, or is unsafe if it fails. Maybe I'm naive, but as long as it seals (and if you've got excess pressure it seems to), an expansion tank doesn't fall into the category I'd avoid from Britpart.
I reckon it should be alright. I'm sure someone who's guessing less than me will be along shortly to put me right though! :D
 
jwrrc said:
I avoid Britpart (or ****part) at all costs for anything that needs to actively do something, or is unsafe if it fails. Maybe I'm naive, but as long as it seals (and if you've got excess pressure it seems to), an expansion tank doesn't fall into the category I'd avoid from Britpart.
I reckon it should be alright. I'm sure someone who's guessing less than me will be along shortly to put me right though! :D
Click to expand...
****part are usually ok as long as there isn't a bearing involved.:D
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

A
Range Rover L322 - not turning over
Replies
12
Views
1K
gold rover
gold rover
B
L320 range rover sport 3.0 tdv6 loosing power steering fluid
Replies
3
Views
493
Mark Piercy
Mark Piercy
F
1980 Range Rover 2 door v8 to 300tdi
2
Replies
20
Views
1K
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
T
Non start
Replies
3
Views
712
Datatek
Datatek
T
Fan Clutch??
Replies
14
Views
788
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
Back
Top