What did you do with your Range Rover today

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Henry_b said:
part of the character of the P38, it likes to leave a few drops here and there.

My best mate had his driveway redone, he was very happy with it until I visited and left a puddle which soaked into the concrete :)
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Mine was fine over winter when the cooler temps meant the engine oil cooler wasn't used. Now it is warming up the slightly porous oil cooler hose is letting out power sweats.
 
Henry_b said:
Looking at the data sheet it has ZDDP in it however not to the same degree as a more dedicated oil "Amsoil Z-Rod" for example has high ZDDP but it is £23 per litre!

the Viscosity rating is one of the most important things to look at the comma 10w40 has a VR off 155 which is a higher rating than the equivalent Castrol and mobil 10w40 product.

And it is £17 a gallon.

I used to use 10w60 Castrol FST however the price was prohibitive £60 for 4 litres IIRC which isn't really reasonable..

With the Rover V8 you're better off changing the oil more regularly as apposed to keeping an expensive oil in longer :)

I've just changed the oil in mine and it has only done 2k since the last service, but being cheap its worth doing frequently.
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Indeed yes you are right on that basis. I used to do the same with my diesel Jap import Nissan Elgrand 3.0 Neo TD engine. I used to put the ASDA oil in it every 6 months and she ran sweet as a nut. In my V12 Aston i always used the Mobil 1 - 10w60 long life in that car as well as my Bentley RT. Both cars ran sweet too on that oil. On my classic Rover P5b i used Millers 20w 50 and i use the same oil in my Silver shadow 2 as well. Again both run lovely.
There will be loads of differing opinions about oils but i just want to get an idea on what is the BEST option for the 4.6 v8 lump. I will most likely never do more than 3000 miles a year too in her so at least one good oil and filter change a year should suffice.
 
kermit_rr said:
They were all visibly dished, this one obviously hadn't been spinning as it's designed to and the cam was hitting the same spot over and over.
The ones to the rear of that one were drenched in oil, while the ones in front were much drier.
I reckon it has been restricting flow though not completely as they weren't all tapping through lack of oil and equally they didn't show signs of oil starvation.
Think i was very lucky and caught it in time
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Sound similer to the old Rover SD1 2600cc engine which had that little oil bypass valve on the top side of the engine which allowed flow through to top end. They often stuck either open or closed which starved the top of oil and ruined the engine. My uncle used to replace his valve as a service item each year.
 
Henry_b said:
Hmm
Got this in the mail today..

You just need to fit a new lower outer windscreen scuttle panel foam filter now buddy.

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I like to remove the filler cap and pull the dipstick to allow the oil to flow out easier ;)

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15mm for the sump plug and a stolen wash bucket as a drain receptacle :)

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Old filter was stuck fast, bastard thing I only did it up hand tight too, must be stronger than I think ;)

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A few minutes of struggling later around a litre of oil down my armpit.. ;)

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New oil filter primed up, as per usual it took around 0.8 litres of oil

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Mating surface cleaned up
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New filter spun on. ;)

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Sump plug back in, and tightened down.

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New liquid gold poured in ;)

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All done and dusted, all in time to take a friends XK120 up to aberyswyth behind the old P38.

great stuff!
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Enthusiastman said:
Sound similer to the old Rover SD1 2600cc engine which had that little oil bypass valve on the top side of the engine which allowed flow through to top end. They often stuck either open or closed which starved the top of oil and ruined the engine. My uncle used to replace his valve as a service item each year.
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I think it's the drain/return I'm concerned about, but i know what you mean
 
kermit_rr said:
If there was a feed problem, surely i'd be getting 'tappet rattle'?
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My neighbour has had from new a 2007 ( 07 ) reg Peugeot 207 Diesel. It has now done 150k miles and runs well. Last year at our local garage it failed its M.O.T on bad emissions so the chap offered her the 2 x engine treatments he does. 1 was the Terraclean for the fuel system which she had done and the other was a newer and similar flush for the engine oil and internals of the engine. Both treatments cost about £150 i think and when re-tested the emissions were perfect and the car ran much sweeter and she has also noticed a significant MPG increase on a long run of 60 mpg where as before she was only getting around 45. Maybe this is something which would do some good on the P38 v8 engines or any engine in the P38 range?? anyone else had it done to theirs???

Terraclean has been around for years now and i remember Edd China doing the Jaguar XK8 with it on Wheeler dealers which cured the emmisions on that too. The other system works in the same way as it takes over the oil lubrication side of things and a fluid container is connected to the oil filter housing and the engine run with this oil cleaning fluid being pushed through the engine in the normal way oil would except there is another container collecting all the **** just like the Terraclean system on the fuel side or compare it to lyposuction where you see all the fat coming out into the clear bottle. LOL.

It must be good otherwise they would never pass it for use
 
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Enthusiastman said:
Sound similer to the old Rover SD1 2600cc engine which had that little oil bypass valve on the top side of the engine which allowed flow through to top end. They often stuck either open or closed which starved the top of oil and ruined the engine. My uncle used to replace his valve as a service item each year.
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I had a 2600 SD1 with that problem. Valve stuck closed coming down M1 from Leeds one night. Bam lost the cam and rest of the top of the engine:eek::eek:
Like a silly b*gger bought another. At least I had loads of spare parts:D:D
 
Anyone been offered a 4.6 special edition in black with red writing. Just found out this morning on was stolen 2 weeks ago just up road from me. Broke into lock up found keys and away they went. Barstewards
 
Enthusiastman said:
Indeed yes you are right on that basis. I used to do the same with my diesel Jap import Nissan Elgrand 3.0 Neo TD engine. I used to put the ASDA oil in it every 6 months and she ran sweet as a nut. In my V12 Aston i always used the Mobil 1 - 10w60 long life in that car as well as my Bentley RT. Both cars ran sweet too on that oil. On my classic Rover P5b i used Millers 20w 50 and i use the same oil in my Silver shadow 2 as well. Again both run lovely.
There will be loads of differing opinions about oils but i just want to get an idea on what is the BEST option for the 4.6 v8 lump. I will most likely never do more than 3000 miles a year too in her so at least one good oil and filter change a year should suffice.
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The issue with old engines is everyone has an opinion on what works best.

I've used 5w40 up to 20w60 in mine and to be fair it sounds the best on 10w40, the manual for my P38, Silver shadow 1 and Daimler 3.6 all list 10w40 as the oil of preference, so thats handy..

The manual for an old 87 RRC I have lists 10w40 as the oil of preference too so using that information I've concluded 10w40 is best..

Some say that 20w50 is best because it is an old engine and thats all that was available in the days of the Suffix A Range Rovers and old Rovers but to be fair engine oil back then wasn't perfect, in the days of the Buick skylark where the 215CI Buick unit originates they stated SAE30 in summer and SAE20 in winter!

I don't fancy using that TBF!

As for ZDDP even classic oils are lacking the stuff nowadays compared to the old days and you also have to consider classic oils don't offer nearly the same protection as a Semi/Full synthetic oil, Millers classic 20w50 has a VI of 133 which isn't great, ZDDP is said to be the best anti wear additive for old engines, the main reason being it is cheap, the downside being it damages cats which is why it's phased out of engine oil...

If you have a high mileage engine "over 70k" putting zinc rich oil into the engine won't make any appreciable difference to the condition of the cam, most Cam wear on a Rv8 happens between 60-100k and once you're in that ball park the best thing to do is keep whatever oil you use fresh..

I've taken apart RV8's at 200k that have run 10w40 for their entire running life and they look like new inside next to no Cam wear etc etc

And in other instances I've taken a 40k unit apart that looked like a horror show inside ruined cam and full of shyte.

So its really up to whoever is in charge of maintenance, I know a RV8 will run on whatever oil you stick in it, ;)

RPI engineering recommend VR1 "Valvoline" and to be fair I did agree with them right up until I took one of their engines apart and found an issue with the camshaft thrust plate in place and with no gears on, there was 5mm of end float which wasn't right so I called them and their engine builder said that much movement was normal "it isn't" 0.05 to 0.35 mm is the correct spec, and they were a mile out..

I wouldn't go to them to have anything done, I've bought parts off them but thats it..

V8Developements are chaps to call if you want advice, or an engine built! ;)
 
Henry_b said:
The issue with old engines is everyone has an opinion on what works best.

I've used 5w40 up to 20w60 in mine and to be fair it sounds the best on 10w40, the manual for my P38, Silver shadow 1 and Daimler 3.6 all list 10w40 as the oil of preference, so thats handy..

The manual for an old 87 RRC I have lists 10w40 as the oil of preference too so using that information I've concluded 10w40 is best..

Some say that 20w50 is best because it is an old engine and thats all that was available in the days of the Suffix A Range Rovers and old Rovers but to be fair engine oil back then wasn't perfect, in the days of the Buick skylark where the 215CI Buick unit originates they stated SAE30 in summer and SAE20 in winter!

I don't fancy using that TBF!

As for ZDDP even classic oils are lacking the stuff nowadays compared to the old days and you also have to consider classic oils don't offer nearly the same protection as a Semi/Full synthetic oil, Millers classic 20w50 has a VI of 133 which isn't great, ZDDP is said to be the best anti wear additive for old engines, the main reason being it is cheap, the downside being it damages cats which is why it's phased out of engine oil...

If you have a high mileage engine "over 70k" putting zinc rich oil into the engine won't make any appreciable difference to the condition of the cam, most Cam wear on a Rv8 happens between 60-100k and once you're in that ball park the best thing to do is keep whatever oil you use fresh..

I've taken apart RV8's at 200k that have run 10w40 for their entire running life and they look like new inside next to no Cam wear etc etc

And in other instances I've taken a 40k unit apart that looked like a horror show inside ruined cam and full of shyte.

So its really up to whoever is in charge of maintenance, I know a RV8 will run on whatever oil you stick in it, ;)

RPI engineering recommend VR1 "Valvoline" and to be fair I did agree with them right up until I took one of their engines apart and found an issue with the camshaft thrust plate in place and with no gears on, there was 5mm of end float which wasn't right so I called them and their engine builder said that much movement was normal "it isn't" 0.05 to 0.35 mm is the correct spec, and they were a mile out..

I wouldn't go to them to have anything done, I've bought parts off them but thats it..

V8Developements are chaps to call if you want advice, or an engine built! ;)
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Rave says replace the thrust plate or replace the camshaft. Both mine are new and the end float is closer to 5mm than 0.35mm
 
kermit_rr said:
Rave says replace the thrust plate or replace the camshaft. Both mine are new and the end float is closer to 5mm than 0.35mm
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Rave also lists the correct end-float 0.05 to 0.035 is that you're aiming at Bolt the camshaft gear up tight and recheck the end float,

thing is that the thrust plate should be the same thickness as the groove it sits in on the camshaft. If both have grooves of the same thickness then it still points towards the thrust plate being too thin.
 
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