kernowsvenski
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This is all looking very professional. Good work.
LOL, I've fried more than one but the most recent left me stranded at the side of the road. It was just a silly mistake on my part but these things happen.@Alibro Funny thing is I think I read through your thread where you fried your Precharge resistors
Not fun times I figured
I think they use full voltage to energise the contactors and ensure they close correctly then reduce the voltage to prevent them overheating. You can buy contactors that have economisers attached to the side of them and will do this for you.Do the EV manufacturers have the same problem, or simply access to contactors without the issue ?
A year or two ago I measured the current drawn by the contactors I had to see what they would draw and it was around 700 to 800mA at 14V so around 11W or 12W which is enough to make them warm or even hot and may reduce their working life.Thanks for the tips @Alibro
Since there are no spec sheets for these contactors, my assumption was that they are aligned to Panasonic's line of EV automotive contactors and thus already had current limiting built in. Guess I need to look for an economizer then.
7kW would be nice, I'm using the Outlander OBC (on board charger) which is only 3kW.No DC fast charging here, just 7KW charging.
You can buy them but they are expensive so it would be cheaper to buy a contactor with the economiser built in.Sounds like they would benefit from a driver circuit silar to that used on the P38 EAS solenoids. Obviously would need scaling up a bit for a contactor, but the principle is pulsed waveform rather than just 12V followed by lower voltage.
View attachment 321256
Do you have a code reader to identify why they are on but not the ABS? May be related to a gearbox switch or summat that you'll have to replicate.@Alibro I need help getting to clear the TC and HDC lamps from the dash. These have stayed on for me regardless of which CAN messages I send to the ABS ECU. Is there something I am missing?
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