V6 Head Gasket Failure

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not sure i wanna start cutting holes in the bodywork - but mite be necessary.
prob with lower thermostat is the std v6 thermo is in a SEALED housing - typical!
 
Good news! - Hippo is back..........
Bad news............... Still bubbles in expansion tank - think it mite be Coolant bottle cap.

have found a few things out......
Thermostat starts opening at 82C.Bfully open at 102C!!!!
Coolant cap is pressurised - 14.5lb f Ft.

so if no pressure then coolant will boil!!!
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
Good news! - Hippo is back..........
Bad news............... Still bubbles in expansion tank - think it mite be Coolant bottle cap.

have found a few things out......
Thermostat starts opening at 82C.Bfully open at 102C!!!!
Coolant cap is pressurised - 14.5lb f Ft.

so if no pressure then coolant will boil!!!
Click to expand...

hehe he he ha he hahahaaaa haaaa ahaha:D

Sorry flop, Aint had a good giggle all week,
Glad you got it sorted mate!

Is it nice :D
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
Good news! - Hippo is back..........
Bad news............... Still bubbles in expansion tank - think it mite be Coolant bottle cap.

have found a few things out......
Thermostat starts opening at 82C.Bfully open at 102C!!!!
Coolant cap is pressurised - 14.5lb f Ft.

so if no pressure then coolant will boil!!!
Click to expand...

Good to hear you ot ur hippo back.
btw, bubbling could be still there are air traps in cooling system. changing the bottle cap is also a good idea.
How do you go with mods? :rolleyes:
 
bubbles seem to have settled down over first 24 hours - so poss air trapped - new coolant lid to be safe - no not safe - nuffink is safe on a Hippo - just reduces the chances....

note on my last fred - thermo fully open at 102C - above boiling point - so if system looses pressure - then fssssssssssssssttttt-pop! dont forget antifreeze reduces boiling point too - that will make it worse - so keeping pressure is critical.
 
The Mad Hat Man said:
bubbles seem to have settled down over first 24 hours - so poss air trapped - new coolant lid to be safe - no not safe - nuffink is safe on a Hippo - just reduces the chances....

note on my last fred - thermo fully open at 102C - above boiling point - so if system looses pressure - then fssssssssssssssttttt-pop! dont forget antifreeze reduces boiling point too - that will make it worse - so keeping pressure is critical.
Click to expand...

soory but i dont understand mad hat. thermo works by pressure??
 
good morning, my antipodean mucker
sorry - no
the cooling system is pressurised by the coolant heating up - that is why a good seal on the coolant tank is required. by increasing the pressure in the cooling system - this has the effect of increasing the boiling point; note the thermo is fully open at 102C (above boiling point of water) so if the pressure is released, the boiling point drops and - hey presto the water turns to steam.
It is not quite as simple as this, because any antifreeze has the effect of lowering the boiling point, so the actual boiling point of the solution (although it could be calculated) is an unknown, depending on Specific gravity of coolant and pressure that the fluid is under.

Does that explain or muddy the water further?
 
i think it means it wont boil at the normal (water) boiling point - so cooling is more efficient - ie more transfer from metal to water - it might mean, however, that it will run slightly hotter and this would affect the oil temperatures.
I think it is down to the rate of heat transfer from the metal to the npg and from the npg to the radiator to cool it back down again.

for a more detailed explanation see http://www.evanscooling.com/main13.htm
 
I have a reply from the local (UK) Evans distributor who says..
"Thx for you e-mail. I would recommend NPG-R for the application such as the KV6. The price is 34.50 GBP per US gallon (3.77 litres).
I attach a brief sheet." But then he wud - wudnt he?;)

I have asked the following Q's....
As this is a “stand alone” product – does the cooling system need to be flushed prior to use?
What effect is there in the product of any residual EGW (ethylene glycol and water ) in the system?
As an emergency “get you home measure” can water be added to the system if NPG is not available?
Would the system need complete changing after (3) or would the water “boil off” in use”, leaving no harmful effects?
Is the heat transfer equal to or better than EGW or are additional cooling measures required, as the cooling system also cools the engine oil, gearbox oil and IRD on the Freelander?
What is the effect of oil contamination on the product or ingress of NPG into the lubrication system?
will let yu know the reply
 
answers to above Q's are......

As this is a “stand alone” product – does the cooling system need to be flushed prior to use?
YES – AND I ENCLOSE SOME BASIC INSTRUCTIONS. RINSE WITH 100% ANTI-FREEZE. WE DON’T IMPORT EVANS FLUSH.

What effect is there in the product of any residual EGW in the system?
EVANS WILL TOLERATE A SMALL AMOUNT OF WATER – SAY UPTO 5% BUT THE LESS THE BETTER.

As an emergency “get you home measure” can water be added to the system if NPG is not available?
YES YOU CAN ADD WATER. IT WILL JUST BEHAVE LIKE A WATER SYSTEM ONCE THIS HAPPENS. SO NO HARMFUL SIDE AFFECTS.

Would the system need complete changing after (3) or would the water “boil off” in use”, leaving no harmful effects?
COMPLETE CHANGE OF SYSTEM TO GET THE BENEFITS OF THE EVANS NPG – Sorry!

Is the heat transfer equal to or better than EGW or are additional cooling measures required, as the cooling system also cools the engine oil, gearbox oil and IRD on the Freelander?
HEAT TRANSFER IS ONE OF THE KEY BENEFITS USING EVANS SO UNLESS YOU ARE GENERATING VAST AMOUNTS OF HEAT NO ADDITIONAL MEASURES SHOULD BE NEEDED.

What is the effect of oil contamination on the product or ingress of NPG into the lubrication system?
NO ONE WANTS SUCH CONTAMINATION OF COURSE BUT IT WOULD BE SIMILAR TO ANY CONTAMINATION WITH/OF A COOLING SYSTEM
 
I believe that a glycol based cooling system is far better. We use it at work in Industrial AHU (air handling units) and air-con. It runs in a temp range from -32 to 132 (ish), i suspect that is harder to do than a KV6.

However an ammonia based system is superior to these but not sure of the application in a car.
 
not sure its easier - and a lot more expensive. Bear in mind OAT aint cheap - so drain it all down (not sure how yu get it ALL out) and refill with £70 worth of NPG.

where are you gonna get two cooling pumps, all the fittings and get it done for £70? Although I agree an electric additional cooling pump which assists the normal one and runs after engine-offf till temp comes down to (say) 80C should kill the overheating probs ( and who knows - maybe HGF as well)
 
You could always use Nitrous Oxide injection.

However not for performance but for cooling your radiator when parked up. A few shots in the back of the rad over a period of say 2 mins will help drop the temp.

Just hope it doesn't drop too quickly.

High performance motors (800bhp+) in the street racing scene (not the fast and the furious) use it when pulling off from a standing start to help cool the intercooler.
 
thanks Treev - not something i tend to carry in my pocket is NO.

Now theres a thought - a NOS injected Hippoo - wunder how longer an engine wud last with that - by the way - NOS injected engines run hotter - not a thing to encourage, perhaps?
 
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