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Happy to be advised - half the reason I log this all is to get your opinions!

Tangle… yes…. We had to do a big of a trig exercise with the winch to get the disco out my gates. Loom was dangling in bay. Stupid I know. I was more concerned about my new gates getting murdered and to be honest hadn’t even thought about the loom. Couldn’t hear it as thought it was just gravel noise. Was also full of cold and freezing my nuts off. I’ll add in more excuses when I come up with them
 
resto_d1 said:
Welding on new mounts to chassis - yrm do them I think?! It will be v8 bellhousing with upgraded TC. I could initially run Hotwire but it just seems to make sense to megasquirt from beginning? The megasquirt isn’t a drop compared to turners cost.
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Are you having a new engine from them ?
Do you have to send an exchange?
 
Hicap phill said:
Are you having a new engine from them ?
Do you have to send an exchange?
Click to expand...
Yeah have to send exchange as they don’t keep them in stock now. 8-12 weeks turnaround I think she said.
I’m just going to have a bottom end from them and build myself as built petrol engines before. Albeit with 4 less cylinders. Seems quite simple engine to build? Last one I built was a 20v on ITBs.
I was looking at buying a new car for work. Something with a v8 or a blown v6 at least. After looking for ages it made no sense. I’d only use it for work and then it would be no use for any other part of life. So decided to keep my pickup and v8 this. That way I get the noise and something special and still have my work truck. I’ll likely sell my commercial d1 once I’m done carrying stuff about and the bits I want to do on house
 
Iv been past RPI near Norwich twice this week & saw some nice classics RR outside with big 3” exhaust pipes.

The SIL is running megasquirt on the forward control. This was out on the road the other week,says safer to fix than flapper/hotwire systems.
Seeing her tommorow will ask where she had the engine from(I know the gearbox is an updated auto for the larger tyres)
 
Cheers. Loads of reading/learning to do. @marjon mentioned trigger wheel etc which all needs to be considered. I’m not near ready to drop in engine yet but working at it each week and won’t be long until I need to look at wiring.
It sounds like the tdi and the v8 fuel pump fit together. V8 had bigger tank but think the pump plugs in.
 
I thought the 300TDI had a mechanical lift pump not intank 🤔.
In which case you may only have level sender wires to your plug.
Unless they just used the same loom for the V8, rather than making 2 different looms.

J
 
marjon said:
I thought the 300TDI had a mechanical lift pump not intank 🤔.
In which case you may only have level sender wires to your plug.
Unless they just used the same loom for the V8, rather than making 2 different looms.

J
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I’ll have a look mate. I was thinking same as Phil. Your correct, 300 does just have sender but I think in tank pump is same thread as sender. Will soon find out. The loom looks identical but I’ve got a full v8 loom on way from an ES so tempted to re loom whole thing. The tank loom for sender on 300tdi is about 2 foot long. Goes to connector behind arch on underneath.
Just looking out for a 3.9 now. I figure this is best option. I know I can Frankenstein parts like use 4.6 bottom end but don’t know enough about it even when I read.
I’ve been working my way through des hammils (sp?) book and will get a bit more in when I put the boy down for nap!
 
If its the intank pump fitting the tank I think they are the same fitting too.
If you have the wires in the loom you mayalso have a spare space in the fuse box for a fuse and relay?

Basically, anything past the 3.9 does away with the dizzy. the 4.0 is identical to the 3.9 really, the 4.6 is no bigger just a change in the stroke.
4.6 would need the bigger HP24 gearbox + TC. 24 internals can be put in a 22 and the 22 kept mechanical (no ecu) kickdown cable can be dificult I have heard.
All the ECUs would need to come with the engine (thats where the fun starts) Unless as you say you go down the MS route.

You dont always need a core exchange engine, but theres a surcharge. When we changed ours we paid the surcharge as shipping back to the UK was more than the charge, IIRC.

J
 
marjon said:
If its the intank pump fitting the tank I think they are the same fitting too.
If you have the wires in the loom you mayalso have a spare space in the fuse box for a fuse and relay?

Basically, anything past the 3.9 does away with the dizzy. the 4.0 is identical to the 3.9 really, the 4.6 is no bigger just a change in the stroke.
4.6 would need the bigger HP24 gearbox + TC. 24 internals can be put in a 22 and the 22 kept mechanical (no ecu) kickdown cable can be dificult I have heard.
All the ECUs would need to come with the engine (thats where the fun starts) Unless as you say you go down the MS route.

You dont always need a core exchange engine, but theres a surcharge. When we changed ours we paid the surcharge as shipping back to the UK was more than the charge, IIRC.

J
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Morning mate, will likely be MS I think. More to try and make it reliable and get the timing a bit more tuned in. I’ll also be looking to add a more aggressive cam, manifolds etc and hopefully I can map to suit this.
Nigel - mr megasquirt advised that his mate comes around doing a mobile mapping service. Goal would be to get it up and running with standard map and go from there.
In my head, I get the v8 loom but don’t need the ecu at all. I simply remove the feeds I need from ecu plug end and wire them to MS. I need another chat with him. I made so many notes and can’t find them on my laptop now!!
 
When I got our Tophat 4.6 the builder offered 5.2 :p. But if you have the tuneable MS, I agree is a good bit of kit just wasnt for me at the time (it was our only car) , but then why not with what you are planning? the extra at the rebuild stage is small in comparison to what you are thinking of doing.
The MS support seems very good and I know of the Nigel you talk of from his other forum posts.

My RX7 was APEXI :D

J
 
marjon said:
When I got our Tophat 4.6 the builder offered 5.2 :p. But if you have the tuneable MS, I agree is a good bit of kit just wasnt for me at the time (it was our only car) , but then why not with what you are planning? the extra at the rebuild stage is small in comparison to what you are thinking of doing.
The MS support seems very good and I know of the Nigel you talk of from his other forum posts.

My RX7 was APEXI :D

J
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Always wanted a spirit r. Not a chance now 😂. Sure I had apexi power fc on something!!
 
resto_d1 said:
Always wanted a spirit r. Not a chance now 😂. Sure I had apexi power fc on something!!
Click to expand...
Sold it when we moved here, wasnt sure if the roads would have killed my back or the car first, so now we are lumbered with 3 LRs for good or bad :D
Number 4 is now the spares car, whos engine/gearbox happens to be on the floor of the garage🤔.

J
 
Don’t know if of interest or not, but people may find use in the routine I use for areas like chassis where rust is present but not terminal.

Step one - Clean with degreaser. I use screwfix no nonsense. It’s excellent and doesn’t burn through your hands etc. clean off as much muck as possible.

Step 2 - wire knot wheel on grinder. Get as much rust off as possible. Don’t tickle it - get every flake off.

Step 3 - degreaser again (water based) and rinse off.

Step 4 - BH deox gel. Slap it on, don’t paint it on. Make sure decent thickness of it. Once on, wrap in plastic and ideally leave overnight. Don’t let it dry out as it will stop working

Step 5 - degreaser again. Note - water based must be used. Get all the muck off. It should’ve turned a nice gungy green colour.

Step 7 -wire brush with grinder and knot wheel again. Should be looking good now. If it’s not, do step 4 and 5 again.

Step 8 - degrease and dry.

Step 9 - hydrate 80 as per instructions. Paint this on as a film. Don’t slap it on.

Step 10 - after 24 hours you can scuff it with scotch pad (use a light one) to key surface then apply your primer and paint system.

This process removes as much as possible then neutralises and isolates. I recommend that once painted you you a BH wax to cover all the paint.

Pic below shows deox gel on front and pre paint stage on rear.
IMG_6800.jpeg
 
Contemplating buying 2 new rear tubs. Bloody expensive but the amount of plate and patches hurts my eyes. I’d have to strip it all back and cut back to patch more. There’s repairs required to the pillars and I also need to pull the triangle floor joiners up to tidy up there.
I’ll sleep on it but think I’ll go for it. Would be so nice to tie the new boot sides into new arches. That’ll be some money spent on new panels!!
@K2tnt - who did you go for for your boot panels? I’ve used DDIS for the boot floor panels and they look very good. Did yrm for the rear cross member as know they’re sh!t hot.
 
resto_d1 said:
Contemplating buying 2 new rear tubs. Bloody expensive but the amount of plate and patches hurts my eyes. I’d have to strip it all back and cut back to patch more. There’s repairs required to the pillars and I also need to pull the triangle floor joiners up to tidy up there.
I’ll sleep on it but think I’ll go for it. Would be so nice to tie the new boot sides into new arches. That’ll be some money spent on new panels!!
@K2tnt - who did you go for for your boot panels? I’ve used DDIS for the boot floor panels and they look very good. Did yrm for the rear cross member as know they’re sh!t hot.
Click to expand...
The panels look ok, they were secondhand actually, off eBay! Someone whose Disco had been written off before he got round to fitting them. Have used YRM before and will prob use them for the other bits I need.
 
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