To raptor or not raptor

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
D

Dentylad

Member
Posts
11
Location
Durham
Hi guys, I'm torn between painting my 130 with raptor or normal paint.
I like the idea of it being more robust but enamel is fairly tough also for light off road use.
This is my first landy so I don't know how much green laning I'll do and as its about the same amount of prep both ways I just don't know.
I'm also thinking of resale value.
All help would be appreciated.
 
So ...

Remove the front seat and have a good look at the seatlet mountings. The bracket in the cab screws to a bracket beneath that is attached to an outrigger bracket and sandwiches part of the floor (alluminium).
Check the rears mountings too.

Take all the door cards off and the plastic sheets and have a look at the metal door frame especially where the door skin is wrapped around and in the bottom corners.
Pull out all the carpets and have a good look at the floor plates and the bulkhead, pay attention where it meets the door hinges.

Coat everything in a phosphoric/tannic acid solution (rust eater) twice, then coat in primer and seal with a top coat.

Treat all the chassis to a thorough inspection and flush out the box sections and apply a rust eater and wax/oil coating to the insides, rust treat the outside of the chassis and steel components on the underside of the floors/tub. Spray with an oxide/etch primer and a topcoat (Raptor would be very good here).

Once you have the corrosion under control then think about spraying the outside/visible bits ...
Even before you spray the outside if you have done everything else you car will be worth more than just a floss over.
 
miktdish said:
So ...

Remove the front seat and have a good look at the seatlet mountings. The bracket in the cab screws to a bracket beneath that is attached to an outrigger bracket and sandwiches part of the floor (alluminium).
Check the rears mountings too.

Take all the door cards off and the plastic sheets and have a look at the metal door frame especially where the door skin is wrapped around and in the bottom corners.
Pull out all the carpets and have a good look at the floor plates and the bulkhead, pay attention where it meets the door hinges.

Coat everything in a phosphoric/tannic acid solution (rust eater) twice, then coat in primer and seal with a top coat.

Treat all the chassis to a thorough inspection and flush out the box sections and apply a rust eater and wax/oil coating to the insides, rust treat the outside of the chassis and steel components on the underside of the floors/tub. Spray with an oxide/etch primer and a topcoat (Raptor would be very good here).

Once you have the corrosion under control then think about spraying the outside/visible bits ...
Even before you spray the outside if you have done everything else you car will be worth more than just a floss over.
Click to expand...
Yep I'm on doing all of the above, everything so far was pretty decent only surface rust really except drivers footwear where I have had to weld in a new panel, I've seen some mud flap things that cover that section in the wheel well.
 
never used raptor but i did use the buzzweld GIO on my chassis and i wish i had used the jotun marine 2 pack i had first planned on using
many of these new wonder paints/wonder finishes are a gimick two pack marine type paint works better
 
Last edited:
Personally I’d say no. They always look very chav and you can never have them looking shiny. I suspect cleaning is also a ball ache as it would be like rubbing a sponge or brush over coarse sand paper.

Plus if you do damage the Raptor finish it will chip off and likely difficult to touch up.

I guess some must like the look. But I do wonder if such people need glasses!!
 
I am with him ^^^
It has its place, main body panels is not 1of them IMO.
If I went to look at 1 and it was covered in that I don't even think I would get as far as ringing the door bell at the house to look at it, and if I knew in the first place I wouldn't even bother enquiring. So as for resale value its not an added value job.

J
 
Anaconda said:
I think Raptor looks terrible, might be OK on the odd bits and bobs, but a complete vehicle! Not for me.
Click to expand...

Ive seen a 2 in black & they looked sh!te, I pondered over it for a while to paint mine, but once id seen them I changed my mind.
There was a lad on here who done his in white which looked good in the pics.

Its his landy to do with it what he wants who cares what everyone else thinks if he likes it crack on. :)
 
that is true what one likes another won't
i like olive drab in a satin matt for my working landy but many like a gloss car type finish which to me just looks wrong on an old landy
 
kevstar said:
Ive seen a 2 in black & they looked sh!te, I pondered over it for a while to paint mine, but once id seen them I changed my mind.
There was a lad on here who done his in white which looked good in the pics.

Its his landy to do with it what he wants who cares what everyone else thinks if he likes it crack on. :)
Click to expand...
Of course he can do what he likes, we all like different things but he did ask.
It seems like a lot of effort to make it look awful.
I get the feeling many use it to try and cover up rubbish bodywork ........... it doesn't work.
 
--ped-- said:
that is true what one likes another won't
i like olive drab in a satin matt for my working landy but many like a gloss car type finish which to me just looks wrong on an old landy
Click to expand...
I like a satin finish also, looks good. Prep work needs to be just as good as for a gloss finish.
 
Anaconda said:
Of course he can do what he likes, we all like different things but he did ask.
It seems like a lot of effort to make it look awful.
I get the feeling many use it to try and cover up rubbish bodywork ........... it doesn't work.
Click to expand...

Ive heard that its a nightmare to remove if it turns out cr@p or you dont like it.
Id use it on checker plate, bull bars/bumpers the last time I looked that gear it was 100 quid for 4 bottles without a tint.
 
Personally, I wouldn’t paint it in raptor. in my opinion, the finish is awful and devalues the vehicle. Each to their own though. I have read posts on other forums where people have had issues removing it as they changed their minds.
 
Raptoring the roof on my 90 this weekend, very happy with previous uses of it, some 5 years on and not a scratch.
 
KISSMYAURA said:
Raptoring the roof on my 90 this weekend, very happy with previous uses of it, some 5 years on and not a scratch.
Click to expand...
That is what drew me to the idea, incase I wanted to take it off road I wanted it rugged and not easily scratchable, I have to drive my van down a lane to get to my allotments and there's a couple of bushes that's ruined my paintwork. However I'm thinking now that maybe after spending 25k plus on a car do I want to ramp it around the countryside.

So I've decided to paint it enamel slate grey with black satin contrast and buy a 90 to take away for weekends and I'll raptor the hell out of it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

ChrisBduck
3.6L Land rover 90
Replies
2
Views
831
ChrisBduck
ChrisBduck
T
Spongy(?) Steering
Replies
1
Views
272
tottot
tottot
Si Click
Raptor (Bed Liner) Paint on Tree Sliders
Replies
5
Views
2K
KISSMYAURA
KISSMYAURA
T
Rear spring stuck in upper seat
Replies
14
Views
678
Twinnie
T
C
Defender 90 TD5 Roof Load.
Replies
5
Views
731
casey66
C
Back
Top