Tips for Replacing Propshaft UJ's - P38

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malcolm_durant

Active Member
Posts
272
Location
Chatham, Kent
Hi All,

I'm getting an unhealthy clunk when going from drive into reverse.

I've bought some replacement UJ's (heavy duty ones with grease nipples at £12ish each from Island 4x4) and want to fit them - this is not something I've ever had to do before.

The workshop manual is bugger all help as all it does is tell me how to get the prop off and refit it. Oh and it strongly infers this is not a one-man job. Nothing some bricks and wood can't help with presumable..?

I can see how I think the UJ's should be done;

1. Remove prop from car.
2. Clean the yokes of mud and rust
3. Remove circlips
4. Bang old UJ out one side of yoke (assuming it's a bit seized).
5. Wiggle UJ back into the yoke and at an angle out through centre of yoke.
6. Refitting is reverse of the above.

But is there really that much "slop" in the yoke to allow the UJ to be wiggled out of the centre of it? Tips welcomed...

Should I also replace the rubber coupling on the rear prop or is that just overkill?

Cheers,

Malcolm
 
I've answered my own question whilst looking at one of the UJ's. One of the end "caps" just dropped off (landing on my foot...ouch).

You fit the caps (gently drifting them in I assume) after wiggling the centre of the UJ into place; and then secure with the circlips, taking care not to lose any of the needle roller bearings on the floor!!
 
There's usually an argument whether you should replace the props exactly as they came off to maintain balance. I don't know what right and what's wrong but I've always run a triangular file across the flanges before I removed them and then lined the marks up when I re-assemble.

Apart from that the instructions from Buster are, as usual, better than you'll find anywhere else.
 
As far as the rubber is concerned, you're there, you've got it in bits, why not? There'll never be a better time.
 
I always did the same as dogsbody,centre-punch worked for me.Make sure the centre yolk in positioned correctly ie grease nipples facing away from flange otherwise you wont be able to get the grease gun on them.Excessive force (big hammer) should be avoided,when replaceing bearing cups use a vice and appropiate size socket to press them in
 
There's usually an argument whether you should replace the props exactly as they came off to maintain balance. I don't know what right and what's wrong but I've always run a triangular file across the flanges before I removed them and then lined the marks up when I re-assemble.

Apart from that the instructions from Buster are, as usual, better than you'll find anywhere else.
there isnt any argument ,it makes no difference at all ,only the prop in itself needs to be kept aligned
 
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