Timing chains-diesel P38

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Managed to get the bolt through a friend coming from London. Fitted as per RAVE.
Tried starting, engine cranks but no diesel at the injectors. checked EMS code which is same at ECU and BECM.
Please help.
 
kapilamuni said:
Managed to get the bolt through a friend coming from London. Fitted as per RAVE.
Tried starting, engine cranks but no diesel at the injectors. checked EMS code which is same at ECU and BECM.
Please help.
Click to expand...

Slightly open all injectors. Remove relay 12. Insert a wire in pin 5 on relay 12 socket (the one closest to front of car) touch it to battery positive to activate lift pump and get someone to crank engine. As airless fuel emerges from injectors close them. Engine should start at some point in this process. Did you fit a new stop solenoid? Did you do pump timing?
 
I was just doing that except my wife was watching the injector flow. It's not a pressurized flow just dripping. Battery went flat after a while and put jumper wires from my other car. Still no proper flow and the starter slows down after few cranks kind of cranking with a low battery. No I did not put a new stop solenoid. In previous occasions I didn't have such a problem with bleeding but this time its very annoying.
 
kapilamuni said:
I was just doing that except my wife was watching the injector flow. It's not a pressurized flow just dripping. Battery went flat after a while and put jumper wires from my other car. Still no proper flow and the starter slows down after few cranks kind of cranking with a low battery. No I did not put a new stop solenoid. In previous occasions I didn't have such a problem with bleeding but this time its very annoying.
Click to expand...

Fit one it is there for a reason. Good battery or power supply is vital.
 
[QUOTE="wammers,
]Fit one it is there for a reason. Good battery or power supply is vital.[/QUOTE]
Will do. At the moment my intention is to get it started. The battery is one year old Panasonic 95AH MF.
It plays dead after 3-4 cranks. Here we don't have more than 95AH for the size.100/ 110AH are much bigger and don't fit the battery compartment.
 
Battery should be lasting longer than that. Give it a really good charge with a decent charger. If it is a calcium battery and your alternator is only kicking out 13.8V it will kill it over time without a full charge with a decent charger once in a while.
 
Grrrrrr said:
Battery should be lasting longer than that. Give it a really good charge with a decent charger. If it is a calcium battery and your alternator is only kicking out 13.8V it will kill it over time without a full charge with a decent charger once in a while.
Click to expand...
Yes, I guess it's the reason. My alternator puts out only 13.6v. I must get it charged.
 
With much coughs n cries got it started. The heater return line ,large U shaped hose, started leaking at the rear of cyl head. Due to that (my guess) the engine started to boil after about 20 mts running. I noticed the red light in the temp gauge and shut her down. My friend who was helping had gone bit too far while I was having tea, he had pushed the inj pump towards the engine thinking that it would help starting. Engine seems noicy and I will have to reset the inj timing.
Anyway, happy that it started and just need to tighten the head bolts, final phase and to see that U hose.
Thanks everyone specially Wammers for readily supporting.:):)
 
When tightening head bolts , final phase, the two bolts surrounding the 5th cylinder (see comments # 16 & 17) on the RHS, started making a crackerty noise. As the noise was so abnormal & scary I thought that they are going to crack the threads on block. I did not complete the final 90 degree torque on these two bolts but completed the others.
Adjusted the pump slightly away from the engine to retard the timing. ( Will do the proper timing later.) Cut the end of the leaking U hose and refitted. The car started fine and with much lower noise than before. Burped the cooling system and she runs fine except that;
1. Nanocom shows a timing modulation 94 at idling/warm but goes to around 45 ish above 1500 RPM.
2. Slight bluish/white smoke at idle.
3. slight vibration at idle felt inside the car but not visible on the engine.
Your views please.
 
kapilamuni said:
When tightening head bolts , final phase, the two bolts surrounding the 5th cylinder (see comments # 16 & 17) on the RHS, started making a crackerty noise. As the noise was so abnormal & scary I thought that they are going to crack the threads on block. I did not complete the final 90 degree torque on these two bolts but completed the others.
Adjusted the pump slightly away from the engine to retard the timing. ( Will do the proper timing later.) Cut the end of the leaking U hose and refitted. The car started fine and with much lower noise than before. Burped the cooling system and she runs fine except that;
1. Nanocom shows a timing modulation 94 at idling/warm but goes to around 45 ish above 1500 RPM.
2. Slight bluish/white smoke at idle.
3. slight vibration at idle felt inside the car but not visible on the engine.
Your views please.
Click to expand...
Crackling is normal on some bolts you should have completed them. Modulation MUST be 45 to 55% at idle warm engine.
 
Well, it;s up & running.
Got the "injection timing out of expected" fault at present. Will do the timing after new year.
Thanks everyone for the support extended.:):):).
Wish you all Merry Christmas & a Happy New Year.
 
kapilamuni said:
Well, it;s up & running.
Got the "injection timing out of expected" fault at present. Will do the timing after new year.
Thanks everyone for the support extended.:):):).
Wish you all Merry Christmas & a Happy New Year.
Click to expand...

Not surprised with 94% modulation. Should have timed the static when you fitted the chains before you started it. Have a good Christmas and all that.
 
Some additional info.
When I fitted the cam sprocket with new bolt, the cam sprocket cover( where others have the vacuum pump) could not be tightened to seat the cover properly. What I observed was that the bolt centre hole should accept the protrusion on the sprocket cover(inside) about 5-6 mm. But the new bolt centre is not large enough so I had to cut the protrusion of sprocket cover by similar amount to complete the job. If you keep on tightening the bolts, the cover will crack and the cover is about 100GBP new. Could not trace a used part on e of bay.
 
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