Timing chains-diesel P38

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kapilamuni said:
This is the first time for me with this engine. Should be the PO.
Can I continue to use the engine block? or is it the end of the road for my car?

Trying to fit the timing chains and need to move the inj pump a little engage sprocket. I dont have the special tool to rotate the pump shaft.
Any body tried a home made tool?
Click to expand...

You should be able to turn pump with a suitable open ended spanner engaged on woodruff key. Make sure it does not drop out. Only turn it in a clockwise direction. You may get away with cracks but for how long is a 64,000 dollar question.
 
kapilamuni said:
Trying to fit the timing chains and need to move the inj pump a little engage sprocket. I dont have the special tool to rotate the pump shaft.
Any body tried a home made tool?
Click to expand...

Pretty certain I turned mine to get it to line up when I replaced the pump. Does the pump not turn by hand? Or can you fit the Woodruff key into it and grab that and use that to turn the shaft?
 
Grrrrrr said:
Odd, Wammers and your reply didn't show up until I submitted mine. Strange things are happening!
Click to expand...

If you can turn the pump by hand getting hold of the woodruff key remind me never to have an arm wrestling bout with you. :D A suitable open spanner around the shaft and engaged on the woodruff key will turn it. But they should only be turned in direction of rotation. Clockwise.
 
Managed to install the chains. Started cleaning the valve gear. Noted nnos 1-7 engraved on the valve head and someone been there before had put punch marks equal to each number too. What are these numbers? (just for info).
 
kapilamuni said:
Managed to install the chains. Started cleaning the valve gear. Noted nnos 1-7 engraved on the valve head and someone been there before had put punch marks equal to each number too. What are these numbers? (just for info).
Click to expand...

Valves should be replaced where they came from and not mixed up. Someone has just referenced them. Normally i would just use a strip of cardboard and stick the valves in it in their removal order for reference. Give them a light lapping to reface them before you fit stem oil seals. Once the stem oil seals have been fitted you should have several caps that go over the valve stems to prevent damaging the seals as the valves are inserted. Valves MUST NOT be withdrawn again once this is done or the seals will be destroyed. Also make sure when you refit the camshaft that the caps are replaced in the correct place. The caps should be stamped or marked with their position relative to numbers stamped on the head.
 
Also note that tappets should also go back in the same location they came from. It is best to fit cam shaft well lubed before head is replaced. Tighten caps progressively and evenly and torque up, then turn cam slightly anti clockwise to close all the valves before head is refitted. When camshaft is refitted several valves maybe open or partially open that should not be. This is because the tappets tend to expand when pressure is off them. It may take several hours for these valves to close fully if just left to do so. Settling can be accelerated by turning the cam shaft with the large nut in the middle of it to put weight on the open valves. Reset cam to number one firing (lobes flat across top) then turn anticlockwise to close the remaining open valves so they are not dinked (they bend very easily) as head is replaced.
 
Got the the cyl head fitted with help from my brother. Without a engine lift it's a hell of a task.
Looking at the tightening data , 1st step ---80Nm , 2nd step---- loosen by 180 degrees and so on.
My question is am I to tighten all bolts to 80Nm first and then loosen one by one by 180 degrees
or
tighten first bolt then loosen it and continue with other bolts.
Of course, tightening or loosening, the sequence to be followed.
A quick reply is much appreciated.
Thanks a lot
 
You can get special lube to go on the camshaft for refitting that is stickier than normal oil so it is well lubricated on startup. Not sure how much difference it makes but it'd make my mind rest easier.
 
kapilamuni said:
Got the the cyl head fitted with help from my brother. Without a engine lift it's a hell of a task.
Looking at the tightening data , 1st step ---80Nm , 2nd step---- loosen by 180 degrees and so on.
My question is am I to tighten all bolts to 80Nm first and then loosen one by one by 180 degrees
or
tighten first bolt then loosen it and continue with other bolts.
Of course, tightening or loosening, the sequence to be followed.
A quick reply is much appreciated.
Thanks a lot
Click to expand...

Torque all bolts in sequence to 80 nm. Slacken in same sequence 180 degrees and torque to 50 nm. Angle tighten in sequence 90 degrees. Angle tighten in sequence a further 90 degrees. Run engine until warm. Allow to cool completely (EG over night). Angle tighten a further 90 degrees.
 
Thanks.
New prob with the sump. when removing the sump I hv removed these two bolts too- see picture- (BOLTS NOT MARKED AS 9.)
what are these bolts?
Now on refitting I cant get RHS bolt as it moves freely to the bottom.
upload_2016-12-11_17-57-19.png
 
Also, can I start the car without checking/adjusting the inj pump static timing as I did not move the inj pump?
My inj pump is already fully pushed towards the engine to control the hot start issues. Since new chains are fitted do I have to get the pump centered , before starting the engine?
Can I use Nanocom to check & adjust the static timing without going through the RAVE procedure?
 
kapilamuni said:
Also, can I start the car without checking/adjusting the inj pump static timing as I did not move the inj pump?
My inj pump is already fully pushed towards the engine to control the hot start issues. Since new chains are fitted do I have to get the pump centered , before starting the engine?
Can I use Nanocom to check & adjust the static timing without going through the RAVE procedure?
Click to expand...

Should be 4 bolts along back sump to block, two 6x100 mm long and two 6x60 mm long. And 20 6x20 or x 22 depending on engine number. No time pump properly.
 
Last edited:
Sump took about half of my day. Had to remove it again and refit.
By mistake I tightened the crank bolt to 100Nm + 270 degrees instead of 150 degrees. :mad::mad::mad:
It's late now to do anything n I'm tired. Do I have to reverse it to 150 degrees or can I continue?
I have fitted all the ancillaries and if I'm to remove all , I won't be able to start it tomorrow.
Luckily, tomorrow is also a holiday but if I don't start it in the morning I won't be able to do the final 90 degrees on the head bolts, at least by the evening.
That means no car for this week too.o_O
 
kapilamuni said:
Sump took about half of my day. Had to remove it again and refit.
By mistake I tightened the crank bolt to 100Nm + 270 degrees instead of 150 degrees. :mad::mad::mad:
It's late now to do anything n I'm tired. Do I have to reverse it to 150 degrees or can I continue?
I have fitted all the ancillaries and if I'm to remove all , I won't be able to start it tomorrow.
Luckily, tomorrow is also a holiday but if I don't start it in the morning I won't be able to do the final 90 degrees on the head bolts, at least by the evening.
That means no car for this week too.o_O
Click to expand...

Think i maybe fitting a new crank bolt, if the old one snaps due to over stressing you are in deep crap.. How the hell did you manage that?
 
Due to space restrictions, only tightened stepwise. First step indicated 30 degrees and so I went ahead for another 4 steps without checking the dial. Apparently, Im in for deep trouble.
 
kapilamuni said:
Will this impact the oil pump?
Or can I keep it as it is?
Click to expand...

Oil pump drive is nipped between crank and front pulley. Fit a new crank bolt and torque to correct setting to be on the safe side. I would not leave it as it is, if the bolt fails you lose the oil pump..
 
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