Threw a front something

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Vinlander

Well-Known Member
Posts
695
Location
Kent
Turned off the A20 about 0630 this morning and went absolutely nowhere.
Looked underneath to find smoke pouring off os swivel.
Presume knackered cv or stub where I put cv grease in swivel while waiting for seal replacement.

Limped into work on locked diff. My idea is to disconnect the front shaft so I can get it 20-some miles home to where I've got an axle waiting.

Advice, moral support, low-loaders, all very welcome.
 
Oh no! Least it sounds as if you've got the bits already to fix it
Good look, hopefully you'll be able to drag it home in 3 wheel drive!
 
More likely to be a wheel bearing welding itself to the stub axle ... so removing the front prop might not make much difference, still worth a try, mind .. :)
 
But if a wheel bearing seizes it shouldn't roll? Unless it's completely destroyed itself, I s'spose.
Does make an awful clunk (worse than "normal") and occasional grinding.
 
If you remove the prop the wheel will still drive the halfshaft anyway.

Might be better to take the drive flange off the hub (it's possible it's stripped anyway if you lost drive).

I'd worry about a collapsed wheel bearing as well. Jack it up and check before driving anywhere.
 
Thanks for the advice, I'll have a good poke around when I finish at work, daylight permitting. Else will stay with family round the corner and sort it in the morning.
 
I've had a front and a rear, at different times, weld themselves to stub axles (lots of water use with poor maintenance) and they do indeed destroy themselves to turn with lots of grinding and banging noises .. :)

You'll likely find that the inner bearing Outer race is OKish, whilst the centre race has welded to the stub axle and the rollers and cage are mostly mush .. :)
 
Stripped as much as I could today, but calliper and swivel housing are all but welded on, bolts corroded beyond having useful corners.
Bearings look ok, outer cv can be seen moving when turning stub from outside. Stub splines seen better days but no cause for concern.
Retainer nut and locknut both mangled beyond belief but functional.

Damage likely inboard of cv, sounds like a little knock every revolution consistent with snapped halfshaft. Agrees with hollow clunk on take up and gear oil slowly draining from swivel drain as if through mangled axle-swivel seal (swivel had grease, not oil).

Left off drive flange, no point removing front prop since axle worthless. Diff may be salvaged. Will not exceed 25mph on the way home.
Very glad to have a replacement waiting.
 
caliper and swivel to axle bolts are bihex headed 14mm or 9/16th for swivel, 13mm or better 1/2 for caliper bolts
sounds like cv is bust
 
Stripped one of these yesterday, and this one is well beyond finding the right spanner.
May give it another go after an overnight soak but don't see much point. All that remains of heads is corroded lumps. Long overdue for replacement.
But thanks for trying.
 
It'd be interesting to see the broken bits!

Try a bucket with a couple of litres of coca cola in, and an occasional wire brushing .. Might surprise you .. ;)
 
It'd be interesting to see the broken bits!

Try a bucket with a couple of litres of coca cola in, and an occasional wire brushing .. Might surprise you .. ;)

I use lidl / aldi vinegar for de-rusting :cool:

Also, on my (spare?) '93 d1 I have a clicks cv so will be in the same position as you sometime, unless I just change the axle :p

Rich.
 
Am I to soak the entire assy in said noxious concoction? Would take more than a couple litres unless I can just pour it on?
Have already been at it with a spike.
Will post pics if I can get it apart. Only have phone here, which doesn't play.

More pressing concern, however, will be adapting single line callipers on new wheel carrier to old dual line system on motor. Have sought advice on this already.
 
Am I to soak the entire assy in said noxious concoction? Would take more than a couple litres unless I can just pour it on?
Have already been at it with a spike.
Will post pics if I can get it apart. Only have phone here, which doesn't play.

You only need to cover the bolt heads and wire brush them after half an hour or so for a couple of hours.

More pressing concern, however, will be adapting single line callipers on new wheel carrier to old dual line system on motor. Have sought advice on this already.

Not sure, but I reckon you'd need to use the 300tdi slave (and possibly master) as well as change all the brake piping in the engine bay! Not looked closely at this 'cos mine was 300 ....
 
Seems I can bodge it, but obv replacing the entire system would be ideal. Will have another look for 300 brake cylinders, but cannot be without the motor for long.
Something will have to give.
 
personally id swap the calipers ,insurance companies arent keen on altered braking systems unless you have an engineers report
That is my feeling too, but will need some luck getting them off.
Re-using any part of old axle is out of the question.
 
That is my feeling too, but will need some luck getting them off.
Re-using any part of old axle is out of the question.
once axles off you will be able to give the bolts a good whack enough will loosen any bolt, though ensure socket can still be hammered on as head mushrooms
 
That's what I'm hoping. Had a bit of trouble getting a 16m socket off one of the top pin bolts earlier ;)

Bottom pin well and truly shagged, by the way, poss cause of failure.
Top pin spacer also disintegrated, prob cowboy installation.
 
Second thoughts, 100% cowboy installation, given condition of components.
Land rover : £1000
52m socket : £15 Why skimp on this?
 
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