Threw a front something

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No go on the trailer, so I'll see what I can do about swapping bearings over. Need to get the torx head from the tool shop round the corner, and haven't loaded up the axle yet anyway.
There's some kind of broken semi-circular piece (should be remains of halfshaft seal but doesn't seem soft enough) inside the axle housing preventing extraction of halfshaft. Will have another look in daylight. If I can get that cleaned out and it looks OK I could rob a bank to get swivel seals from LR round the corner (if they have them) and be on the road in no time. Swapping the whole axle just isn't realistic on my driveway.
All back together (what took all afternoon to dismantle took five minutes to reassemble) to keep the street looking tidy, more fun and games tomorrow :(
On the bright side I now know all the bolt sizes on this assembly, and can probably strip and rebuild it blindfolded.
 
Vinlander said:
No go on the trailer, so I'll see what I can do about swapping bearings over. Need to get the torx head from the tool shop round the corner, and haven't loaded up the axle yet anyway.
There's some kind of broken semi-circular piece (should be remains of halfshaft seal but doesn't seem soft enough) inside the axle housing preventing extraction of halfshaft. Will have another look in daylight. If I can get that cleaned out and it looks OK I could rob a bank to get swivel seals from LR round the corner (if they have them) and be on the road in no time. Swapping the whole axle just isn't realistic on my driveway.
All back together (what took all afternoon to dismantle took five minutes to reassemble) to keep the street looking tidy, more fun and games tomorrow :(
On the bright side I now know all the bolt sizes on this assembly, and can probably strip and rebuild it blindfolded.
Click to expand...

What is the torx for?

If you are going to borrow the bearings from the spare then also use the seal, at least that way you can fit the new seal to your spare axle. Also gives you time to get a good quality seal from a reputable (cheaper) source.
 
Kwakerman said:
What is the torx for?

If you are going to borrow the bearings from the spare then also use the seal, at least that way you can fit the new seal to your spare axle. Also gives you time to get a good quality seal from a reputable (cheaper) source.
Click to expand...
Torx for lower pin. What IS that weird counterweight thing for? Surely it doesn't do anything meaningful?
But then I don't need to mess with any of that, just fit the whole spare swivel assembly, except that the seal on the spare leaks, and I don't know if I can get a shaft seal without swapping the axle housing, so I have to fill the diff and let that fill the swivel, leaving no option to use grease to reduce leaks.
 
Vinlander said:
Torx for lower pin. What IS that weird counterweight thing for? Surely it doesn't do anything meaningful?
But then I don't need to mess with any of that, just fit the whole spare swivel assembly, except that the seal on the spare leaks, and I don't know if I can get a shaft seal without swapping the axle housing, so I have to fill the diff and let that fill the swivel, leaving no option to use grease to reduce leaks.
Click to expand...
You shouldn't need to remove the bottom pin unless something has damaged it and it needs replacing. If you remove the top pin and bearing you can remove the hub without removing the bottom pin (bolts may shear if you try) you should then be able to get the bottom bearing off the pin and slide the 'new' one on.
 
Kwakerman said:
You shouldn't need to remove the bottom pin unless something has damaged it and it needs replacing. If you remove the top pin and bearing you can remove the hub without removing the bottom pin (bolts may shear if you try) you should then be able to get the bottom bearing off the pin and slide the 'new' one on.
Click to expand...
That bottom bearing was proper mangled, nothing left of it, so I wouldn't be surprised to find the pin damaged, but as I can't get parts till new year anyway, no point digging.
Also secretly want to remove the weird counterweight thing, match the bolts, and get rid of it :eek: S'pose it might be a vibration dampener or something?
 
Great series, I've watched it all.
Ten seconds later : "Perhaps if you're a little more civilized ..." and goes on to remove the bottom pin.
Seems worth pulling it if only to give the bolts an airing and clean it.
 
Kwakerman said:
Not sure what you mean about the counterweight?
Click to expand...
The "bar" bolted on under the bottom pin, which has the bottom disc shield bracket on it.
Far as I can tell they added this part "because reasons". So bloody random having this chunk of metal held on with a completely different bolt, like little green men came along and said it would be so and they just went along with it. Like "and also it'll have this thing attached".
 
Vinlander said:
The "bar" bolted on under the bottom pin, which has the bottom disc shield bracket on it.
Far as I can tell they added this part "because reasons". So bloody random having this chunk of metal held on with a completely different bolt, like little green men came along and said it would be so and they just went along with it. Like "and also it'll have this thing attached".
Click to expand...
its a damper you shouldnt need to remove it
 
Just curious ..
When did it begin to appear?
Did they have trouble with the bottom pin falling out?
 
Giving up on this till after xmas. Will leave it parked up, clean up spares and loosen bolts over the next few days as time permits in preparation for the swap.
Just want to say thanks to everyone who has been helping me out here. I hope you all (and everyone on LZ) have a great xmas, and no doubt talk again before long.
 
If the bottom pin takes all the load I'd guess I'm OK with a cheap top bearing and good bottom to do it without compromising too much.
What's annoying is that even the best bearings money can buy won't last forever.
The usual suspects (Island 4x4 and Paddock) only seem to stock ****part anyway, so I can't pop in and discuss, which makes me sad. :(

Or ... just fit the spare with existing bearings and new seals, and keep the cheap bearings for emergency repair to be replaced with good ones asap.
Trouble with that is I can't be confident with the spare bearings anyway, since os seal already leaks on there. 'spect the drag link gives ns some protection.

So I'm looking at one of :
Cheap bearings in seal kit, £30 the lot, could go any minute after first few miles. Might as well get the kit since I want all new seals/gaskets anyway, and the spare bearings might be handy for a quick fix one day.
Good bearings, £70-110 (seal kit + 2 or 4 individual bearings), probably only need bottom bearings, should last at least a year.
Have I roughly got the shape and size of it?

£70 isn't tooo bad, but I want to save what I can for overhauling electrics, brake + fuel lines, oil leaks, etc.
 
jamesmartin said:
bottom pin rarely had issues if ever ,it was used on rrc which is were disci got its chassis and drive train from
Click to expand...
Apart from its bearing disintegrating and taking the halfshaft with it :p

Had a go and cracked most of the bolts on my swivels today. If they all come out and the axle housing is OK I'll just swap them over, use the halfshafts off the spare, and save myself a lot of trouble.
Just waiting for seal kits for the new swivels.
 
Vinlander said:
Apart from its bearing disintegrating and taking the halfshaft with it :p

Had a go and cracked most of the bolts on my swivels today. If they all come out and the axle housing is OK I'll just swap them over, use the halfshafts off the spare, and save myself a lot of trouble.
Just waiting for seal kits for the new swivels.
Click to expand...
thats fairly rare in my experience ,unless its been wading and oil/grease not checked for water ingress:)
 
jamesmartin said:
thats fairly rare in my experience ,unless its been wading and oil/grease not checked for water ingress:)
Click to expand...
Sounds about right. When I drained them after buying it they were full of all manner of mud and grot. Would have flushed after a couple hundred miles, but swivels needed replacing and shaft failed before that came to pass.
 
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