terrafirma steering damper.

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Koni pre-loaded dampers made a massive improvement to my 2001 p38. With the old OEM units, I felt every line and joint in the road and the tram lining was quite noticeable. Konis made it very useable. I haven't changed steering damper.

The gas in shocks is to stop the oil boiling and forming bubbles nothing else. Your old units where obviously knackered. OEM shocks are as good as anything.
 
The gas in shocks is to stop the oil boiling and forming bubbles nothing else. Your old units where obviously knackered. OEM shocks are as good as anything.
Agree, it had 83k on when I got it. I looked online and found new p38 dampers at only £18each. I dont know if they were OEM, but at that price I didn't reckon that they would last or do a good job. Hence the decision to go for a recognised aftermarket brand.

Any idea on how many miles the OEM units are good for?

Just replaced the ball joints on the ends of the steering -May consider a new steering damper next.
 
Agree, it had 83k on when I got it. I looked online and found new p38 dampers at only £18each. I dont know if they were OEM, but at that price I didn't reckon that they would last or do a good job. Hence the decision to go for a recognised aftermarket brand.

Any idea on how many miles the OEM units are good for?

Just replaced the ball joints on the ends of the steering -May consider a new steering damper next.
Mine are original and it's coming up to 115K miles, the MOT here is quite picky on shocks and it passed with 80% readings on all of them:)
 
Mine are original and it's coming up to 115K miles, the MOT here is quite picky on shocks and it passed with 80% readings on all of them:)


:confused: how's that measured? Why not renew? Inexpensive and nice wee job to do, also give better ride/improved safety/shorter stopping distance with fully working ones.
 
:confused: how's that measured? Why not renew? Inexpensive and nice wee job to do, also give better ride/improved safety/shorter stopping distance with fully working ones.
Why would I renew when they are near perfect? 80% is as good as some new cars.
The wheels are hydraulically operated at different frequencies and different strokes for the test. Below 50% is a fail.
 
Why would I renew when they are near perfect? 80% is as good as some new cars.
The wheels are hydraulically operated at different frequencies and different strokes for the test. Below 50% is a fail.

80% isn't near perfect, it's 20% bad and increase wear on all other suspension parts, tyres etc. 115.000 miles one a set and near perfect, don't think so, but thats my opinion:cool:
 
If you want to spend money on your brakes you're better off replacing flexis, calipers, pads and discs. EDC stuff is good, and better than OEM on road, but if you're fitting rock sliders, steering guard etc. then it sounds like you're intending going off road where drilled and slotted discs would just fill with mud.

not so much 'offroading'... i spend half a year in Scandinavia,
a lot of small roads are gravel, or worse, and you have wildlife that loves to commit suicide !!!!, if you want serious off road... try north norway/finland,
its a magic drive... BE EQUIPPED.... !!
 
80% isn't near perfect, it's 20% bad and increase wear on all other suspension parts, tyres etc. 115.000 miles one a set and near perfect, don't think so, but thats my opinion:cool:
According to my mate at the test centre, even new cars rarely better 90%, the theoretical 100% is virtually unatainable, unless you are running 35 profile tyres as the machine apparently cannot tell the difference between tyre sidewall flex and shock movement.
There is no detectable wear in the suspension joints and with a beam axle they are not going to affect the test anyway.
 
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