Temp switch question
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Datatek
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There are 2 or 3 depending on year, one towards the front of the head, one near the middle and one towards the back which is not fitted on early cars and is just for over temperature so it can be ignored.
tomcat59alan
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The front one is brown ,the back one is black and is used to activate the a/c fans on later models if gets hot as posted.Ive found the printout but it hasn't got the part numbers sorry.Try lr.com I'd look for you but got a doctor appointment.
RangeRoller dt
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98 MY with EGR (probably AC) id guess your front sensor is a 2pin blue unit.
Think the 3rd black sensor (stc2254) came in ‘99 but it’s possible your engine could have it. If not it’s a blank
You can just take a look with a torch to check is best. Remember you are identifying the colour of the sensor not the connector on it
Zoom in you can see
Sensor 1 - blue gauge sender (2 wires) /green connector
Sensor 2 - green ecu sensor/black connector
Sensor 3 - a blanking plate (if there’s one in there it’s the black one)
^^^ is early model yours may vary so take a peek on yours. If you have a brown sensor it’s stc 2253
Think the 3rd black sensor (stc2254) came in ‘99 but it’s possible your engine could have it. If not it’s a blank
You can just take a look with a torch to check is best. Remember you are identifying the colour of the sensor not the connector on it
Zoom in you can see
Sensor 2 - green ecu sensor/black connector
Sensor 3 - a blanking plate (if there’s one in there it’s the black one)
^^^ is early model yours may vary so take a peek on yours. If you have a brown sensor it’s stc 2253
Last edited:
tomcat59alan
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Well done Jack, I was in a rush and got it wrong,the brown sensor I mentioned was fitted to the Omega cylinder head.98 MY with EGR (probably AC) id guess your front sensor is a 2pin blue unit.
Think the 3rd black sensor (stc2254) came in ‘99 but it’s possible your engine could have it. If not it’s a blank
You can just take a look with a torch to check is best. Remember you are identifying the colour of the sensor not the connector on it
Zoom in you can see
View attachment 252456 Sensor 1 - blue gauge sender (2 wires) /green connector
Sensor 2 - green ecu sensor/black connector
Sensor 3 - a blanking plate (if there’s one in there it’s the black one)
^^^ is early model yours may vary so take a peek on yours. If you have a brown sensor it’s stc 2253
RangeRoller dt
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Some have the brown single pin sensor, OP will have to check see what he’s got.
Cool
Thank you.
We replaced the middle one ( green ) but it was for the gauge I believe.
Don't have the rear one, even i do have Aircon.
It's a 1997 as far as I can tell from data on nanocom. Original engine.
I need the sensor going to the becm / ecu.
Just can't seem to get info from bearmarch or 4x4 Island on it as they only point to the green one for the gauge.
Thank you.
We replaced the middle one ( green ) but it was for the gauge I believe.
Don't have the rear one, even i do have Aircon.
It's a 1997 as far as I can tell from data on nanocom. Original engine.
I need the sensor going to the becm / ecu.
Just can't seem to get info from bearmarch or 4x4 Island on it as they only point to the green one for the gauge.
tomcat59alan
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My listing was showing the green one for the ECU but the guy that gave it to me wasn't sure, switch the ignition on and pull the connector and see if the gauge stops working. If it does then the other is for the ECU.
RangeRoller dt
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The middle sensor (green) is the ecu temp sensor.
Datatek
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+1 to that. Gauge is the front sensor. the rear one can be ignored fitted or not.
Datatek
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Invalid fault sometimes means nothing, does the car run OK?
Yes it dos
I had internitted harsh idling before , by driving or just let it run.
It was bad.
Now is sometimes but very slight.
( About 100 plus / minus for a couple seconds then back to normal )
Cold start is only on the dot when I let the plugs preglow twice, otherwise it takes a couple turns.
Hot start can be 5 to 10 engine turns sometimes.
Fib dosnt show any readings outside the norm and no other fault codes coming up.
Taking the new glowplugs out tomorrow and bench check them in case they not working properly.
I had internitted harsh idling before , by driving or just let it run.
It was bad.
Now is sometimes but very slight.
( About 100 plus / minus for a couple seconds then back to normal )
Cold start is only on the dot when I let the plugs preglow twice, otherwise it takes a couple turns.
Hot start can be 5 to 10 engine turns sometimes.
Fib dosnt show any readings outside the norm and no other fault codes coming up.
Taking the new glowplugs out tomorrow and bench check them in case they not working properly.
RangeRoller dt
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The box the fuel filter screws into is a heater unit that can fail but not very often. Check the connector/wiring to it, but be careful the heat and age can make things brittle.
(Just re read your post looks like it’s working according to Nanocom)
(Just re read your post looks like it’s working according to Nanocom)
Yes what I thought. I really rechecked nanocom a couple.times.and days making sure I missing nothing.
I will check this box and the connector, but also checking glowpligs on bench. Just in case.
Can't really think of anything else.
Batterie has full power, that was my first thought. Lol
And it has no problems while.its driving. Power or smooth running. All fine.
I will check this box and the connector, but also checking glowpligs on bench. Just in case.
Can't really think of anything else.
Batterie has full power, that was my first thought. Lol
And it has no problems while.its driving. Power or smooth running. All fine.
RangeRoller dt
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If you unplug the green sensor the becm should run on a preset value. If the sensor is faulty the preset value will ‘fix’ the issue, if you get what I mean
Check sensor 1 and 3 see what you have. Whatever sensors you need I will get the part number for you.
Check sensor 1 and 3 see what you have. Whatever sensors you need I will get the part number for you.
RangeRoller dt
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start with the simple stuff, one day Itl go right then you know what it was. When it runs smooth write all the Nanocom data down so you have a reference when something’s goes awry
People forget simple things - spill pipes, air filter, water separation chamber for example
This time of year plugs on their way out will give gyp like this. Cheapos are no good unless you change them twice a year. The guys will tell you what ones are best for the price. Berus are good.
People forget simple things - spill pipes, air filter, water separation chamber for example
This time of year plugs on their way out will give gyp like this. Cheapos are no good unless you change them twice a year. The guys will tell you what ones are best for the price. Berus are good.
Ok. Thanks.
Never thought about water separation chamber.
Airfilter is 3 month old.
Not changed the fuel filter.
It was my horror something could get wrong by it. Lol
That unplug idea - I understand it.
Worth a try I guess.
Even new can be faulty.lol
Never thought about water separation chamber.
Airfilter is 3 month old.
Not changed the fuel filter.
It was my horror something could get wrong by it. Lol
That unplug idea - I understand it.
Worth a try I guess.
Even new can be faulty.lol
tomcat59alan
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Isn't that fuel heater just part of the winter protection kit along the heated washers?
