Temp switch question

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
I see if I find anything out of the use of the nanocom with running engine.from there website
Doubt it but just going number safe.
 
I'm fiddling with modulation at the moment. Start car then connect nano at the car port, lead MUST be already connected at the nano end.
Click EDC then instruments, there are 3 choices of screens, the first 2 are useful, I think screen 2 is modulation.
Read it engine hot and at idle, should be 50% +/- 5.
 
So, done the nanocom thing by let the engine run.
I have no idea what I'm reading , what should and what is wrong. Lol.
So, in hope, someone knows about I post that in here.
There different readings, changing after a couple seconds, guess that is normal, , so I'm posting them all up.
Hopefully it tells is nothing serious. Lol
 
20211117_162712.jpg 20211117_162701.jpg 20211117_162717.jpg 20211117_162717.jpg
 
Your rpm is too low, should be 750 once it's run for a minute. Iirc go to utility on the instruments, 3 pages on instruments, you want the last one. You'll see lots of boxes with 128 in them if you're on the right page.
 
Ah.
It always had about this rpm when idling after driving it around town for an hour.
Even before the start problems.
The voltage is because of lights on I have side steplight, so, more power drain when idle with interior lights on.
Usual it's about 14.2 to 14.4 without lights. ( I do have a lot extra stuff electrical running, dashcams and cctv rear to.)

How dos the fib adjustment work?
I seen loads of different stuff about this around pages.
Seem very technical and problematic.
 
Flossie said:
Your rpm is too low, should be 750 once it's run for a minute. Iirc go to utility on the instruments, 3 pages on instruments, you want the last one. You'll see lots of boxes with 128 in them if you're on the right page.
Click to expand...
If I carry on scrolling with pages it tells me utilities and settings.
 
tyke100 said:
Ah.
It always had about this rpm when idling after driving it around town for an hour.
Even before the start problems.
The voltage is because of lights on I have side steplight, so, more power drain when idle with interior lights on.
Usual it's about 14.2 to 14.4 without lights. ( I do have a lot extra stuff electrical running, dashcams and cctv rear to.)

How dos the fib adjustment work?
I seen loads of different stuff about this around pages.
Seem very technical and problematic.
Click to expand...
The load should not drop the voltage.
Modulation is your worst problem.
 
Datatek said:
The load should not drop the voltage.
Modulation is your worst problem.
Click to expand...
I always had this with most cars.
I know too much extra electronics fitted incl higher watt headlights.
Not having any problems on batterie or power since the new batterie.
Even with Heather it gos straight up to full once I move.

Is there a explanation or how to set the fib ? To get this modulation in order ?
 
tyke100 said:
If I carry on scrolling with pages it tells me utilities and settings.
Click to expand...
I think it's under utilities? I was only doing mine 2 days ago and I've forgotten already!
Try every page under EDC, it's there somewhere.
Don't be scared of the FIP adjustment,
I've done mine and it's easy, Data will send you the how to or I can with an email address. I didn't quite do exactly what data did ie- I didn't run with the inlet manifold off. I have a couple of extra tips too that I discovered make life a little easier when doing it.
Mine was around 85% now it's 49-52.
 
You need to have coolent temp at 90/95 no electrical loads like A/C on.
I had to remove the viscose fan to get to that temp in 20mins, fan on, it took 1 1/2hr.
 
Flossie said:
I think it's under utilities? I was only doing mine 2 days ago and I've forgotten already!
Try every page under EDC, it's there somewhere.
Don't be scared of the FIP adjustment,
I've done mine and it's easy, Data will send you the how to or I can with an email address. I didn't quite do exactly what data did ie- I didn't run with the inlet manifold off. I have a couple of extra tips too that I discovered make life a little easier when doing it.
Mine was around 85% now it's 49-52.
Click to expand...

Any help appreacheated.
I have to look at the how to - the way it should, but not declining how you done it.
I send you my email direct .

The fib seems complicated and not the cheapest part including the exchange.
So, don't really want to break anything. Lol
 
Right.
Tried to adjust the fib.
We.managed to get it by adjustung it down to about 67.
No more space to move it any further as it was done beforehand due seen the markings.

Still having hot start issues , but it is running on higher revs and more smooth, no indication of running issues like before ( similar to sparkplug hick ups, sorry , best to describe ).

But, it still had twice hotstart issues, where it taken again a while to start finally.

There is no more space to move the fib any more.
So, is there any other way to solve the problem without getting a new timing chain and let a garage change it?

I really have no intention to spend another 500 ( minimum estimated ) plus buying another car for a week as this is the estimated time for it being off the road.

Any other ideas are very appreciated.
Thank you
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
P38A P38 DSE Manual (non-EGR) No turbo boost
Replies
7
Views
657
Grrrrrr
Grrrrrr
H
P38A 1997 2.5 cranks dont start
Replies
6
Views
2K
Datatek
Datatek
L
SOLD - Land Rover Ninety (Defender 90) 300TDi Auto soft-top
Replies
9
Views
4K
mondifa
M
tyke100
cooling
Replies
13
Views
739
RangeRoller dt
RangeRoller dt
richhemmings
Prospective owner - Hello!
Replies
6
Views
948
biketeacherdave
biketeacherdave
Back
Top