RS2000CUSTOM
Active Member
- Posts
- 346
- Location
- The Black Country - The Miglunds
It has been many many moons since I last had any issues with my TD6
BUT
like most things they eventually break !
So heres what happened
I noticed a slight increase in cranking to start engine from either warm or cold - this was only an extra second or two
Driving normal 30mph round town no difference at all
Try to make a quick get away and I could feel a tiny flutter in the revs
So decided to go onto local by-pass and gunned it in Sport Manual mode
Well 1st 2nd 3rd and then PING PING PING PING - Engine stopped and total non-start - whoops
Fuel System Fault on display and had to get a mate to recover me
Under side of engine dripping wet with pure clean diesel
Back to my workshop and quickly identified leak from High Pressure pump
So off I went to consult the Range Rover workshop .pdf, Google, Ebay and Youtube
Off to a local Motor Factors who advertise on Ebay who supplied me with a pump removal / cam chain gear holding tool - £20 Bargain
Then let the strip down begin
Detach bonnet struts and lock bonnet in upright position using the tabs on the bonnet hinges
Viscous fan and cowing off
Drain coolant
Rear bulkhead panel off
Inlet manifold off
Partially remove and move away the plastic coolant hose that goes directly over the HP pump
The pump is then clear to remove (no really it is that easy once tha above removed)
Remove blanking plug on front timing chest that covers the HP pump nut
Fit £20 tool which consists of a collar (fit this first) remove nut which is not very tight and then fit support tube through centre of collar
Remove the 3 HP pump nuts but remember to put a piece of masking tape across socket opening to "grab" the lowest nut so it doesnt drop into engine bay
Remove the HP pump to rail metal pipe and the feed and return hoses
HP Pump is NOT "timed" so it does not matter what position the engine is in when removing the pump
Screw bolt into the removal tool and carefully tighten which then releases the pump from the gear which is tapered
A bit of wiggling around and pump is out !!!
Clean exterior of pump
Then watch YOUTUBE VIDEO's as they are very informative !
Buy a seal kit I paid £16.20 :bow: (cheapest parts bill for an L322 Range Rover)
Failed seal that caused all the grief is pictured next to the 50p
Now I know you are all not going to have access to test equipment but even though I trust my own repair work I still went to a diesel specialist and paid then £20 to pressure test and cycle the pump throughout its working pressure range - 1350 Bar
Refit and restart engine (doesnt even need bleeding) - check for leaks - NONE
Hope this quick write-up helps others
Only special tool required is the cam gear holder / pump removal tool
You dont even need to jack up the vehicle or use a pit or ramp
View attachment 110369 View attachment 110370 View attachment 110371 View attachment 110372
BUT
like most things they eventually break !
So heres what happened
I noticed a slight increase in cranking to start engine from either warm or cold - this was only an extra second or two
Driving normal 30mph round town no difference at all
Try to make a quick get away and I could feel a tiny flutter in the revs
So decided to go onto local by-pass and gunned it in Sport Manual mode
Well 1st 2nd 3rd and then PING PING PING PING - Engine stopped and total non-start - whoops Fuel System Fault on display and had to get a mate to recover me
Under side of engine dripping wet with pure clean diesel
Back to my workshop and quickly identified leak from High Pressure pump
So off I went to consult the Range Rover workshop .pdf, Google, Ebay and Youtube
Off to a local Motor Factors who advertise on Ebay who supplied me with a pump removal / cam chain gear holding tool - £20
BargainThen let the strip down begin
Detach bonnet struts and lock bonnet in upright position using the tabs on the bonnet hinges
Viscous fan and cowing off
Drain coolant
Rear bulkhead panel off
Inlet manifold off
Partially remove and move away the plastic coolant hose that goes directly over the HP pump
The pump is then clear to remove (no really it is that easy once tha above removed)
Remove blanking plug on front timing chest that covers the HP pump nut
Fit £20 tool which consists of a collar (fit this first) remove nut which is not very tight and then fit support tube through centre of collar
Remove the 3 HP pump nuts but remember to put a piece of masking tape across socket opening to "grab" the lowest nut so it doesnt drop into engine bay
Remove the HP pump to rail metal pipe and the feed and return hoses
HP Pump is NOT "timed" so it does not matter what position the engine is in when removing the pump
Screw bolt into the removal tool and carefully tighten which then releases the pump from the gear which is tapered
A bit of wiggling around and pump is out !!!
Clean exterior of pump
Then watch YOUTUBE VIDEO's as they are very informative !
Buy a seal kit I paid £16.20 :bow: (cheapest parts bill for an L322 Range Rover)
Failed seal that caused all the grief is pictured next to the 50p
Now I know you are all not going to have access to test equipment but even though I trust my own repair work I still went to a diesel specialist and paid then £20 to pressure test and cycle the pump throughout its working pressure range - 1350 Bar
Refit and restart engine (doesnt even need bleeding) - check for leaks - NONE
Hope this quick write-up helps others
Only special tool required is the cam gear holder / pump removal tool
You dont even need to jack up the vehicle or use a pit or ramp
View attachment 110369 View attachment 110370 View attachment 110371 View attachment 110372
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