L322 TD6 L322 High Pressure Pump Fail / Repair

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Hmmmmm.....it may be an electrical connection problem if it just suddenly shuts down for no rhyme nor reason and not a failed HP Pump...as this would cause stuttering before shutdown as the pressure in the rail drops to a point where injection cannot happen.

Ignition switches are known fail items, but that would just shut down the car completely.....hmmmm. Time to check all the eletrical connections to/from the engine ECU, HP pump, pressure regulator etc.
 
Ant,
Is there a way of testing fuel rail pressure sensor, as this was replaced earlier this year, along with outside tank pump and a injector, could it have developed a fault?? might just be me thinking out loud tho as ran great till the other week when it broke down and was told HP pump which was then rebuilt and tested @ £285
 
Might be worth having a look at the engine to chassis earth strap, i recall an l322 on here and it was well corroded and causing a few issues with running.
sorted out it ran like a dream.
 
Did you do a leakoff test with the engine running to compare the fluid levels of each injector. As said by our Saint, injectors can return too much and or too little fuel . Both conditions can cause a system shut down with codes. Either way if that's the case, rebuilt or replacement injector/s may be required. ;)
 
Might be worth having a look at the engine to chassis earth strap, i recall an l322 on here and it was well corroded and causing a few issues with running.
sorted out it ran like a dream.

I had a would turn over, but wouldn't start , one day. Couldn't find which earth strap was issue, but AA guy fitted one for me, no more issue.
 
Would be interesting to see fuel pressure as it cut out. That would give a good pointer as to what was happening. (as Saint said above)
 
Looking at his previous photos of live data...it shows:

Req. Rail Press: 317.3
Act. Rail Press: 317.3

Seems strange the actual rail pressure is EXACTLY the same as what is required....now either it is a well timed photo and it just happens to be exactly the same at the moment of the photo or it isn't fluctuating at all (which I would expect it to do)
 
Looking at his previous photos of live data...it shows:

Req. Rail Press: 317.3
Act. Rail Press: 317.3

Seems strange the actual rail pressure is EXACTLY the same as what is required....now either it is a well timed photo and it just happens to be exactly the same at the moment of the photo or it isn't fluctuating at all (which I would expect it to do)
Good point sir!
Question, could this be the reading before the fault codes deleted or after deletion?
To rule out a default program set by the ecu after the shutdown?
 
Last edited:
Readings are with or without codes the only codes getting now are,DTC 9f6 fuel pressure monitoring whilst starting
DTC 1260 fuel low pressure control, glow plug circuit, every time I clear codes and restart back them come, Ant regarding required rail pressure this might but not always every 30 secs drop to 307.3 for maybe 2 secs this is on tick over, but do match actual when gentle acceleration applied.
but just been out 35 miles never missed a beat :confused:
 
So, The engine runs and responds with gentle use?
If you push harder then it will cut out every time or occasionally?
Sorry, just gone back over the thread...
Random problems are generally electronic..
weather, temperature or humidity can play part to that kind of behavior or failing electronics. Mechanical problems stay consistent....
Does it change with a cold or warm engine?
Has it been tuned by any chance?
 
Last edited:
I do agree with Saint about checking the wiring loom on and around the engine. Especially the pressure sensor and the wiring leading to it. ;)
 
No I can drive normal, kick down, drive at speed 60/70 no problem,
first time it cut out just pulling up at traffic lights,following day 2nd time doing 30 mph, then 40 miles down the doing 60 so 3 times in all it's cut out
 
A simple try out, get the engine warm and bonnet open and go to the fuel rail sensor and see if moving the plug causes similar issues. I wouldn't rule the injector wiring either, although no individual injector fault has arisen yet?
 
Are you certain the connector on the back of the HP pump regulator is good?
If you disconnect the fuel rail sensor the engine will stutter but keep running. Same with injectors and sensor on the filter.
But as soon as the HP regulator looses it signal it shuts down.
The connection on mine wasn’t fully seated. The seal had swollen slightly.
Pain in the arse to check tho
 
Back
Top