TD5 Fuel Pressure problem
- Thread starter chrimcne
- Start date
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Hi all,
I've just joined the LZ and Im glad I have, especially on this thread!
I'm going through exactly the same things as everone else here has regarding this "air in the system" BS, and it's been driving me nuts and seesm to be atempting to remove all of the money from my bank account and make me homeless
It all started really suddenly when the old girl took more that a second to start one day, then just kept getting harder.
To date I've had one qualified mech. who didn't even know how to get to the fuel pump to replace it, after I'd told him not to try the job unless he knew what he was doing.
It wasn't until I saw the arse end of the wagon on the ground beneath the hoist with the tow bar etc all taken off that I knew he didn't know, but several hundred bucks later!
At that stage the return line from the diesel cooler had been taken off and the diesel was aerated, so the pump was replaced and the diesel checked in the same way, and all clear and started first time, but not 2 hours later.
Since then, and with no leaking diesel (externally obvious) and having never had the injectors out I presumed that it was possibly the filter housing or FPR, so I've replaced them both.
Starts fine after the purge but a few hours later, no way in hell will it start without the purge process.
Had it tested at the local LR dealership and there were electrical shorts showing on some injectors and the injector wiring loom had oil in it.
Changed the loom, cleared the shorts and started fine, but not 2 hours later
So have now changed the pump, filter, FPR, wiring harness and arguablly it's worse, certainly no better. Just had another diagnostic check and there are no electrical issues any more, so we're thinking about the possibility of the injectors themselves remaining partially open and allowing fuel to drain to the cylinder head???
Is this really a possibility and worthy of a couple of hours of checking??
I'm interested in the non-return valve and the air bleed valve in this thread.
I'm no mechanic, but not stupid either and after the vehicle has sat for a while somehow it seems that fuel has drained away from the rail as the pump has to cycle for about 40 seconds when the ignition is on.
After that it might, and I SAY might just start after 20 seconds of cranking with the accelarator fully depressed, otherwise it's the full purge cycle 5 or 6 times, every time, and sometimes even needed twice.
Twice now over the past 8 weeks it's even stalled out completely while running, even with the new parts, but if I go through the purge cycle it'll start again.
When it's running it runs great, 1/2 or full tank, even at max throttle, it's just getting it started with that fuel loss from the rail.
You can even hear it when it cranks over (if you've ever heard that empty, lack of compression noise when you've run out of fuel).
My dealership are trying to help to be fair, but everyone seems stumped?
I have to say that what I find disgusting is that LR as the company take no part in this forum or via the helplines, they just say take it to your dealer!
It's obvious that they must be aware of this issue, and there is bound to be a common theme here between all the vehicles, they can't all be that randomly different witht the same symptoms, and I'm gutted they don't help directly from an H/O level.
So unless anyone has any other suggestions I'm going to replave the injector washers and the get the fuel filter non-return valve and air bleed valve checked.
Do you think for the hell of it I get the injectors checked to see if they are leaking internally as well??
LR if you think you're helping retain customers by ignoring this you're very wrong.
Jeremy Clarkson might think you're good, but he doesn't have anything ever either he's paid for or gets out of manufacturers warranty.
I got rid of my R/R because of this sort of BS, surely you're not going to drive me away from the Discovery as well?
I look forward to any other help and I'll just keep looking:monitor_punch:
I've just joined the LZ and Im glad I have, especially on this thread!
I'm going through exactly the same things as everone else here has regarding this "air in the system" BS, and it's been driving me nuts and seesm to be atempting to remove all of the money from my bank account and make me homeless
It all started really suddenly when the old girl took more that a second to start one day, then just kept getting harder.
To date I've had one qualified mech. who didn't even know how to get to the fuel pump to replace it, after I'd told him not to try the job unless he knew what he was doing.
It wasn't until I saw the arse end of the wagon on the ground beneath the hoist with the tow bar etc all taken off that I knew he didn't know, but several hundred bucks later!
At that stage the return line from the diesel cooler had been taken off and the diesel was aerated, so the pump was replaced and the diesel checked in the same way, and all clear and started first time, but not 2 hours later.
Since then, and with no leaking diesel (externally obvious) and having never had the injectors out I presumed that it was possibly the filter housing or FPR, so I've replaced them both.
Starts fine after the purge but a few hours later, no way in hell will it start without the purge process.
Had it tested at the local LR dealership and there were electrical shorts showing on some injectors and the injector wiring loom had oil in it.
Changed the loom, cleared the shorts and started fine, but not 2 hours later
So have now changed the pump, filter, FPR, wiring harness and arguablly it's worse, certainly no better. Just had another diagnostic check and there are no electrical issues any more, so we're thinking about the possibility of the injectors themselves remaining partially open and allowing fuel to drain to the cylinder head???
Is this really a possibility and worthy of a couple of hours of checking??
I'm interested in the non-return valve and the air bleed valve in this thread.
I'm no mechanic, but not stupid either and after the vehicle has sat for a while somehow it seems that fuel has drained away from the rail as the pump has to cycle for about 40 seconds when the ignition is on.
After that it might, and I SAY might just start after 20 seconds of cranking with the accelarator fully depressed, otherwise it's the full purge cycle 5 or 6 times, every time, and sometimes even needed twice.
Twice now over the past 8 weeks it's even stalled out completely while running, even with the new parts, but if I go through the purge cycle it'll start again.
When it's running it runs great, 1/2 or full tank, even at max throttle, it's just getting it started with that fuel loss from the rail.
You can even hear it when it cranks over (if you've ever heard that empty, lack of compression noise when you've run out of fuel).
My dealership are trying to help to be fair, but everyone seems stumped?
I have to say that what I find disgusting is that LR as the company take no part in this forum or via the helplines, they just say take it to your dealer!
It's obvious that they must be aware of this issue, and there is bound to be a common theme here between all the vehicles, they can't all be that randomly different witht the same symptoms, and I'm gutted they don't help directly from an H/O level.
So unless anyone has any other suggestions I'm going to replave the injector washers and the get the fuel filter non-return valve and air bleed valve checked.
Do you think for the hell of it I get the injectors checked to see if they are leaking internally as well??
LR if you think you're helping retain customers by ignoring this you're very wrong.
Jeremy Clarkson might think you're good, but he doesn't have anything ever either he's paid for or gets out of manufacturers warranty.
I got rid of my R/R because of this sort of BS, surely you're not going to drive me away from the Discovery as well?
I look forward to any other help and I'll just keep looking:monitor_punch:
sierrafery
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Hi, no other sugestion than what your plan is:
replace the air bleed valve first with new one, you can't "check" it cos it's internal membrane wears out in time and that's not visible... then if it doesnt cure things go for the washers/seals but after that i have the feeling everything will be ok cos that symptom of yours is classical for these two issues
depending on the modell there might not be a non-return valve but as long as the air bleed valve and washers/seals are OK it doesnt make a difference that's why some modells dont even have it by factory. Good luck
replace the air bleed valve first with new one, you can't "check" it cos it's internal membrane wears out in time and that's not visible... then if it doesnt cure things go for the washers/seals but after that i have the feeling everything will be ok cos that symptom of yours is classical for these two issues
depending on the modell there might not be a non-return valve but as long as the air bleed valve and washers/seals are OK it doesnt make a difference that's why some modells dont even have it by factory. Good luck
Last edited:
The fuel system is pressurised so not possible for air to get in... only fuel gets out...
The problem you are most likely having is a common one with this engine (and many others) and relates to combustion gas leaking through the copper washer at the tip of each injector that seals the corresponding cylinder from the fuel rail.
See below (cylinder head transversal cut):
The presence of a NRV does't appear to have much of an effect on anything IME.
Get your copper washers changed out, injectors properly set, and should be good to go.
The problem you are most likely having is a common one with this engine (and many others) and relates to combustion gas leaking through the copper washer at the tip of each injector that seals the corresponding cylinder from the fuel rail.
See below (cylinder head transversal cut):
The presence of a NRV does't appear to have much of an effect on anything IME.
Get your copper washers changed out, injectors properly set, and should be good to go.
markomate
Member
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- Bedfordshire/Estonia
MTurri that is a great cutaway pic! Never seen it before!
+1 on seals and washers, as Sierrafery said its classic symptoms of seal failure.
Mine did the same as yours, pain to start then if it was left idling for more than 5 mins it the revs slowly dropped off until it stalled, restarted after purge.
PS, When injectors are "checked" by dealer/experts etc they nearly always find something wrong, call me cynical but its in their interest to flog you new ones!
+1 on seals and washers, as Sierrafery said its classic symptoms of seal failure.
Mine did the same as yours, pain to start then if it was left idling for more than 5 mins it the revs slowly dropped off until it stalled, restarted after purge.
PS, When injectors are "checked" by dealer/experts etc they nearly always find something wrong, call me cynical but its in their interest to flog you new ones!
Last edited:
raywin
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- North Yorkshire
Having been through these problems myself I think there are a few weak spots on this fuel system which make it hard to diagnose, frustratingly some faults seem to give the same symptom and leave you frustrated having spent the afternoon fixing it only to find its just the same
:
1 The injector seals and washers, if the copper washers fail then combustion gas will blow past the injector into the fuel delivery line blowing bubbles of gas in the head, this has to be a prime suspect when your normally well behaved TD5 starts giving problems.
2 Bleed valve on the fuel filter as described above these have a limited life and when the injectors leak it gives the valve plenty to do, if the valve is getting on in years then they cant cope. This part is very cheap and worth a punt. put one on mine and it did not cure the problem but you could tell the difference, turn the key and the tank pump would squeal for 5 or 6 seconds and then go quiet and the engine would start.
3 None return valve, I bought one, I have seen many none return valves but this is not one, it is just like a plastic hose tail, with nothing inside it no mechanism to arrest reverse flow, maybe there is something inside the original one to take out and put in the the new outer I don't see how the bit I received could have been worn. Look at the picture in post 8 here.
4 Pressure regulator on the cylinder head, used to maintain the necessary 4 bar pressure in the head at the injector intake port, if they go wrong it will allow fuel to pass below 4 bar and either return to the cooler and back to the tank, result is the pressure in the cylinder head is low, even worse is when they just leak the fuel down the block, I see people say the system is sealed and fuel can leak out but air cant enter, I don't agree, in good condition the system is sealed, but if our system was in good condition we would not be on this thread, when the pump runs the fuel pressure will push out fuel from any leak path, but shut it down and leave it for a while and the fuel will drop back and air will enter. remember that a system pressurized by a compressed gas will hold pressure for a while even with a small leak because of the volume of gas compressed into the enclosed space, any system pressurized with liquid will very quickly loose its pressure with the slightest leak path because the liquid is not compressed.
5 Fuel filter I have read of people fitting brand new filters and the engine starts to play up, apparently not all filters are equal, but I would also advise very careful fitting of a new filter to be sure it seals correctly.
6 Filter housing, if you look around you will find stories of people being driven mad by similar problems starting the engine, and eventual finding the filter mounting block is porous or cracked, opening the system to atmosphere.
7 In tank pump, I suspect that many of these pumps are changed by TD5 owners only to find that that was not the problem, if you search you see so many people who hear the typical pump howl which seems to go with the problem and they buy a new pump only to find that it does not end their troubles,
Sorry if this makes fixing the problem look like a game of fuel system Bingo, but I think it is a case of take it easy and try to eliminate the simple things first if you recently changed a filter then that's a good place to start, don't jump in and buy a new pump until you feel sure that's the problem, if the engine starts after a purge and it runs well especially at higher speed then the pump is not the best starting point.
Injector seals are a prime suspect, and not too hard to do with time and patience. Look at the block and see if you have diesel running down the back of the engine ( can also knacker the clutch if left) mine had this but it was the o rings on the end of the two tubes.
Good luck, and if it gives anyone hope mine now starts on the button.
:
1 The injector seals and washers, if the copper washers fail then combustion gas will blow past the injector into the fuel delivery line blowing bubbles of gas in the head, this has to be a prime suspect when your normally well behaved TD5 starts giving problems.
2 Bleed valve on the fuel filter as described above these have a limited life and when the injectors leak it gives the valve plenty to do, if the valve is getting on in years then they cant cope. This part is very cheap and worth a punt. put one on mine and it did not cure the problem but you could tell the difference, turn the key and the tank pump would squeal for 5 or 6 seconds and then go quiet and the engine would start.
3 None return valve, I bought one, I have seen many none return valves but this is not one, it is just like a plastic hose tail, with nothing inside it no mechanism to arrest reverse flow, maybe there is something inside the original one to take out and put in the the new outer I don't see how the bit I received could have been worn. Look at the picture in post 8 here.
4 Pressure regulator on the cylinder head, used to maintain the necessary 4 bar pressure in the head at the injector intake port, if they go wrong it will allow fuel to pass below 4 bar and either return to the cooler and back to the tank, result is the pressure in the cylinder head is low, even worse is when they just leak the fuel down the block, I see people say the system is sealed and fuel can leak out but air cant enter, I don't agree, in good condition the system is sealed, but if our system was in good condition we would not be on this thread, when the pump runs the fuel pressure will push out fuel from any leak path, but shut it down and leave it for a while and the fuel will drop back and air will enter. remember that a system pressurized by a compressed gas will hold pressure for a while even with a small leak because of the volume of gas compressed into the enclosed space, any system pressurized with liquid will very quickly loose its pressure with the slightest leak path because the liquid is not compressed.
5 Fuel filter I have read of people fitting brand new filters and the engine starts to play up, apparently not all filters are equal, but I would also advise very careful fitting of a new filter to be sure it seals correctly.
6 Filter housing, if you look around you will find stories of people being driven mad by similar problems starting the engine, and eventual finding the filter mounting block is porous or cracked, opening the system to atmosphere.
7 In tank pump, I suspect that many of these pumps are changed by TD5 owners only to find that that was not the problem, if you search you see so many people who hear the typical pump howl which seems to go with the problem and they buy a new pump only to find that it does not end their troubles,
Sorry if this makes fixing the problem look like a game of fuel system Bingo, but I think it is a case of take it easy and try to eliminate the simple things first if you recently changed a filter then that's a good place to start, don't jump in and buy a new pump until you feel sure that's the problem, if the engine starts after a purge and it runs well especially at higher speed then the pump is not the best starting point.
Injector seals are a prime suspect, and not too hard to do with time and patience. Look at the block and see if you have diesel running down the back of the engine ( can also knacker the clutch if left) mine had this but it was the o rings on the end of the two tubes.
Good luck, and if it gives anyone hope mine now starts on the button.
sierrafery
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That's not quite so, the throttle should be depressed 5-6 times max untill the MIL warning starts flashing and the sequence keeps around 3 minutes untill the MIL(and the pump) stops... after that leaving the ignition on is useless, eventually repeat the trick that might help but keeping the ignition on for 20 minutes has no reason
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That's a good list. Pretty much what I've done with mine over the three and a half years I've had it. Pump, filter head (including the glands) fuel pressure regulator, hoses, injector seals and washers. There's not much left to go wrong, apart from the injectors themselves.
raywin
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Careful what you say! I've only had mine just over two years but for such a simple machine its capacity to go wonky has me amazed.
raywin
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Me and my big bloody mouth, went out this morning and turned the key it fired for about 1.5 - 2 seconds and stopped, won't start now turns over but seems stone dead, it has been standing in this pouring rain for a few days, better go and plug the Nanocom in and see what it says.
gazman
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My worst fear. Especially as the wife will give me a big told you so for selling a 3 yr old top of the range insignia to buy a 13 yr old td5 that has done nothing but go wrong. Can't wait for the 'I told you so!' and quote 'you've done nothing but faff with that bloody thing since you got it'
Currently trying to work out why the fuel pump makes sounds like someone stood on a cat when the tank is less than half full and it sounds rough as nails above what I think is 2500 rpm.
I've adjusted boost pressure, and cleaned the map sensor, replaced the MAF with a semens one, changed fuel filter checked the red plug at the ecu and at the rocker cover for oil.
Might nip to my local indy with it as I could spend a fortune and get nowhere.
It starts great since the new starter motor and pulls great till around 2500 rpm when it sounds like it's missing or about to explode
raywin
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I know what you mean, but to be honest mine is a faf about machine it's not my main vehicle and I bought it just to restore bit by bit.
From what you say sounds like what I went through earlier in the year, it's frustrating just to throw parts at it and "see if that works".
Big improvement came when I changed the injector seals, and as I mentioned the bleed valve on the filter, mine also sounded rough at higher revs I.e. After 40 mph in 4th gear. I wondered about the damper pulley but I noticed that the vibration was only when pulling.
At similar speed on a slight down incline then it was very smooth, so I decided it was probably due to fuelling or injectors rather than a mechanical inbalance, that's when I did the injector seals and immediately it sounded different much smoother. Purged it quite a few times and it was starting more easily. Then found the leak from the pressure regulator (which I had changed before ) and it now it was going well (hush my mouth).
By the way also changed the heater plugs which were actually duff but that did not help, and the fuel filter.
Today I plugged the Nanocom in, but no faults came up, engine speed showed about 360 when I turned it over with the starter, so crank sensor looks good, purged it twice, and tried it and it fired but did not start, purged it again and it fired again, purged one more time and after a few tries it started. Took it out and gave it a run and it was fine.
During the last days I put it the other way on my sloping drive with the front higher, (less rain leaks in) don't know if that has done anything or maybe damp in the ECU? Sprayed the electrics under the drivers seat with WD40 and put it to bed, just call it another head scratcher.
sierrafery
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Injector washers and seals or new pump is needed, or both
raywin
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Why do you feel that will do the trick?
sierrafery
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it's my feeling based on the symptoms and on what was already ruled out
sandu
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hey guys,
I know the thread is very old but I hope that you will get notified about the new message here...
I have some troubles with my Def TD5 too.
The engine has been repaired 20000km ago, and after repair, the engine loses power... low RPM seems to have loss of power.
I measured yesterday the Fuel Pressure with a bar gauge.
Here is what I found:
1. I connected the gauge with a T-piece in the hose coming from fuel pump, and entering in the upper Fuel Regulator House inlet. I got +/- 4.5 bar
2. I connected the gauge with a T-piece in the bottom hose, which is returning to the fuel cooler. I got the same +/- 4.5 bar.
3. I connected the gauge in the place of temperature sensor, I got the same +/- 4.5 bar.
4. I connected the gauge directly to the hose that is coming from pump, I got 6.5 bar.
I saw everyone is telling the right pressure is up to 4.0 bar, and should decrease a little when the throttle is pressed. What about 4.5 bar pressure? Is it normal? Or does it has anything in common with loss of power and high fuel consumption? (14.8L/100km - is my fuel consumption now)
For better understanding my measurements, here you can see some videos I made yesterday:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B-iWEx6bSxYPNU5wbnFOczc2cTA
I know the thread is very old but I hope that you will get notified about the new message here...
I have some troubles with my Def TD5 too.
The engine has been repaired 20000km ago, and after repair, the engine loses power... low RPM seems to have loss of power.
I measured yesterday the Fuel Pressure with a bar gauge.
Here is what I found:
1. I connected the gauge with a T-piece in the hose coming from fuel pump, and entering in the upper Fuel Regulator House inlet. I got +/- 4.5 bar
2. I connected the gauge with a T-piece in the bottom hose, which is returning to the fuel cooler. I got the same +/- 4.5 bar.
3. I connected the gauge in the place of temperature sensor, I got the same +/- 4.5 bar.
4. I connected the gauge directly to the hose that is coming from pump, I got 6.5 bar.
I saw everyone is telling the right pressure is up to 4.0 bar, and should decrease a little when the throttle is pressed. What about 4.5 bar pressure? Is it normal? Or does it has anything in common with loss of power and high fuel consumption? (14.8L/100km - is my fuel consumption now)
For better understanding my measurements, here you can see some videos I made yesterday:
https://drive.google.com/drive/folders/0B-iWEx6bSxYPNU5wbnFOczc2cTA
raywin
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I looked at the videos and it seems to me that the system is not too far from correct when vehicle is not pulling.
My understanding is
Fuel pump delivers 4 bar+ to the fuel rail in the head
The pressure regulator is set to 4 bar so that when the pressure is higher than this it will open and allow some fuel to flow back to the tank thereby regulating the pressure, like a safety valve.
When you Rev the engine obviously the injectors consume more diesel, pressure drops back and the regulator sensing the pressure drop will close a little to maintain the pressure at 4 bar.
This is what yours seems to do
But the air - fuel flow when standing is pretty different to what you may see when the vehicle is actually pulling (you can see this looking at the turbo pressure) would be interesting if you could see what happens when the engine is pulling I.e. will it fall below 4 bar when the demand is much higher? If so maybe the pump intake is getting blocked by dirt, or possibly the pump is on its way out.
If the pressure stays <>4 bar then maybe the problem is elsewhere.
My understanding is
Fuel pump delivers 4 bar+ to the fuel rail in the head
The pressure regulator is set to 4 bar so that when the pressure is higher than this it will open and allow some fuel to flow back to the tank thereby regulating the pressure, like a safety valve.
When you Rev the engine obviously the injectors consume more diesel, pressure drops back and the regulator sensing the pressure drop will close a little to maintain the pressure at 4 bar.
This is what yours seems to do
But the air - fuel flow when standing is pretty different to what you may see when the vehicle is actually pulling (you can see this looking at the turbo pressure) would be interesting if you could see what happens when the engine is pulling I.e. will it fall below 4 bar when the demand is much higher? If so maybe the pump intake is getting blocked by dirt, or possibly the pump is on its way out.
If the pressure stays <>4 bar then maybe the problem is elsewhere.
sandu
Member
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- Chisinau, Moldova
ok, but I measured the pressure in both hoses (before Fuel Regulator and after it)
so I think the pressure should be below 4 bar?
anyway, I am not saying that this is the problem for not pulling, that's why I asked you, maybe you know more about that
so I think the pressure should be below 4 bar?
anyway, I am not saying that this is the problem for not pulling, that's why I asked you, maybe you know more about that
Andy Springthorpe
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- Wolverhampton
Hi folks, i have reviewed this thread and just need a little advice please. I have a non starting issue and here is where i am at... (apologies for long post)
I have a 2001 TD5 90 @ 120k miles. I have replaced the injector loom, done the injector washers, cleaned the red ECU plug, fitted a new filter housing and filter. I have replaced the in line air bleed valve with a genuine Land Rover item just to eliminate this as a problem as at £19 it was cheap enough.
I have cleaned the crank position sensor and plug, as this was coated in oil (not diesel) it shows no faults through diagnostics.
I have no diesel in the engine oil and all filters and oils are brand new.
I have connected a pressure gauge to the temp sender outlet on the FPR and get the following....
1. When purging the system after connecting the gauge i get a steady 4 bar when the pump is running and can hear fuel gushing through the system. However, when the pump cuts out, the pressure drops to 0.75 bar in less than 1 second. As soon as the pump starts a new cycle, it goes straight back to 4 bar.
2. Once the purge cycle phase is complete with ignition still on i get around 0.75 bar. If i turn the ignition off and back on it goes back to 4 bar, until the pump shuts down, pressure dropping straight back to 0.75 bar.
3. With the gauge still connected, i crank the engine and the pressure drops to 1.5 bar before the gauge fluctuates wildly between 1.5 to a maximum of 3 bar. The LR does not start, although occasionally it try's It will eventually start up but it takes a lot of cranking. Once running it is smooth and goes well.
However, if i switch it off it won't start
Incidentally when the pump is running either from cold or with a hot engine, i do not get any gurgling sounds suggesting air in the system. The only exception is when i connected the gauge or replaced the air bleed valve, where I introduced air into the system.
Thoughts please guys, is it my FPR or as i fear my Fuel pump?
Thanks
Andy
I have a 2001 TD5 90 @ 120k miles. I have replaced the injector loom, done the injector washers, cleaned the red ECU plug, fitted a new filter housing and filter. I have replaced the in line air bleed valve with a genuine Land Rover item just to eliminate this as a problem as at £19 it was cheap enough.
I have cleaned the crank position sensor and plug, as this was coated in oil (not diesel) it shows no faults through diagnostics.
I have no diesel in the engine oil and all filters and oils are brand new.
I have connected a pressure gauge to the temp sender outlet on the FPR and get the following....
1. When purging the system after connecting the gauge i get a steady 4 bar when the pump is running and can hear fuel gushing through the system. However, when the pump cuts out, the pressure drops to 0.75 bar in less than 1 second. As soon as the pump starts a new cycle, it goes straight back to 4 bar.
2. Once the purge cycle phase is complete with ignition still on i get around 0.75 bar. If i turn the ignition off and back on it goes back to 4 bar, until the pump shuts down, pressure dropping straight back to 0.75 bar.
3. With the gauge still connected, i crank the engine and the pressure drops to 1.5 bar before the gauge fluctuates wildly between 1.5 to a maximum of 3 bar. The LR does not start, although occasionally it try's It will eventually start up but it takes a lot of cranking. Once running it is smooth and goes well.
However, if i switch it off it won't start
Incidentally when the pump is running either from cold or with a hot engine, i do not get any gurgling sounds suggesting air in the system. The only exception is when i connected the gauge or replaced the air bleed valve, where I introduced air into the system.
Thoughts please guys, is it my FPR or as i fear my Fuel pump?
Thanks
Andy
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