TD5 Fuel Pressure problem

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1. Some time ago we spoke about that air bleed valve in the fuel filter head.... did u put a new one?(refurbishing the old one is not an option believe me) ....cos when the level in the tank is down there is more air accumulated in the fuel which must be eliminated(and that's what that valve does). As the car moves the fuel in the tank churns too and air is mixing in it. Take a bottle, fill it with diesel and shake it...then see how it looks.... empty it to half then shake it again...u'll see that's more air mixed in the diesel then. That's what happens in the reservoir too.

2. When the tank is empty the pump must have to struggle harder to send the diesel cos there's smaller pressure at the bottom of the tank....and if it's tired that might have an effect
 
1. Some time ago we spoke about that air bleed valve in the fuel filter head.... did u put a new one?(refurbishing the old one is not an option believe me) ....cos when the level in the tank is down there is more air accumulated in the fuel which must be eliminated(and that's what that valve does). As the car moves the fuel in the tank churns too and air is mixing in it. Take a bottle, fill it with diesel and shake it...then see how it looks.... empty it to half then shake it again...u'll see that's more air mixed in the diesel then. That's what happens in the reservoir too.

2. When the tank is empty the pump must have to struggle harder to send the diesel cos there's smaller pressure at the bottom of the tank....and if it's tired that might have an effect


I am paying attention Mr SierraFery.

I have yet to FIND the air bleed valve.
As soon as I find it and have a new one, I will change it IMMEDIATELY.

I would love to get this problem sorted.
 
I wish too to be able to guarantee on no mather what when it comes about L. R.:cool: .... on a second thought, i can GUARANTEE that it will eat diesel if u ride it:D
 
Why can you not refurbish the old one - took mine off and pushed a pin through it but made no difference to the starting problem. However there doesn't appear to be much more to the valve apart from an O ring.
Yours puzzled.
 
Why can you not refurbish the old one - took mine off and pushed a pin through it but made no difference to the starting problem. However there doesn't appear to be much more to the valve apart from an O ring.
Yours puzzled.

so how do u know that the a new one isnt better then?;) ... that O ring is very important to be airtight and the "core" has certain qualityes.
 
Hi.
I had the same problem with my 2003 discovery TD5.
Garage changed the fuel pump- no difference.
Garage did the O rings and washers (went better-smoother) but still didnt
start at under half a tank.
So having read this thread in December, I replaced the bleed valve.
Now all sorted- thanks very much everyone
Steve
 
Steve - did you find a supplier for just the valve or did you buy the whole pipe fitting ? I'm being a tight old git with my discovery !
Thanks
Chris
 
chrimcne -
I replaced the whole filter assembly. I had got a bit fed up with it not working and just wanted to get it sorted.
I did though put it back with the old part first to check which was the cure.
S
 
Sorted !! - it is a bit difficult to refurbish the valve if part of it is AWOL in the fuel system. When I took mine off many months ago I couldn't tell if it was complete until I bought a new one recently, compared the two and realised that the membrane part was missing from mine! After many months of trauma she now starts immediately.
Thanks for all the help & advice
 
It will be injector o-ring or the non return valve on the fuel filer housing. Try the housing non return first back left pipe about 6 quid if i remember other wise its the rings, not a too difficult job just time consuming.

Hi,
Have you got a picture of this non return valve please?
 
The best picture I've seen is on page 1 of this thread. It stiil doesn't show the air bleed valve in all its glory. When you remove the plastic valve from the air bleed connection pipe at the fuel filter there should be a membrane housing one the wider end which you can remove, similar to a white plastic ring containing a gauze type fabric attached to the valve. I only realised part was missing when I bought a new one and compared it to the one fitted to my Disovery - see if you can look at one from a dealer and then compare with what you've got. Alternatively fill the tank to above half, remove yours and compare both at the dealer ! For what it is it can be a pain in the arse if it fails.
 
I have done just about changed the whole delivery system on mine and it is STILL playing up below half a tank of fuel the only thing i got to change is the copper washers , will not be a happy teddy bear if it is still the same , new pump , pipes , fuel regulator , non return valve , and the air bleed valve !. is the "sling hammer" the same as a slide hammer ?.
 
I have done just about changed the whole delivery system on mine and it is STILL playing up below half a tank of fuel the only thing i got to change is the copper washers , will not be a happy teddy bear if it is still the same , new pump , pipes , fuel regulator , non return valve , and the air bleed valve !. is the "sling hammer" the same as a slide hammer ?.

open the tank then and ride it so... to rule out the simplest thing you didnt mention ...the tank's breather/atmospheric vent system...cos it's quite complicatecd and if it doesnt work the vacuum created in the tank would affect the delivery of fuel
1. The filler is closed by a threaded plastic cap which screws into the filler neck. The cap has a ratchet mechanism to
prevent overtightening and seals against the filler neck to prevent the escape of fuel vapour. The filler cap has a valve
which relieves fuel pressure to atmosphere at approximately 0.12 to 0.13 bar (1.8 to 2.0 lbf.in 2 ) and opens in the
opposite direction at approximately 0.04 bar (0.7 lbf.in 2 ) vacuum.
2. A breather spout within the tank controls the tank 'full' height. When fuel covers the spout it prevents fuel vapour and
air from escaping from the tank. This causes the fuel to 'back-up' in the filler tube and shuts off the filler gun. The
position of the spout ensures that when the filler gun shuts off, a vapour space of approximately 10% of the tanks total
capacity remains. The vapour space ensures that the Roll Over Valve (ROV) is always above the fuel level and vapour
can escape and allow the tank to breathe.
The ROV is welded on the top surface of the tank. The ROV is connected by a tube to the filler tube, which in turn is
connected to the atmospheric vent pipe. The ROV allows fuel vapour to pass through it during normal vehicle
operation. In the event of the vehicle being overturned the valve shuts off, sealing the tank and preventing fuel from
spilling from the atmospheric vent pipe.
 
I hear all these experiences, but I still wonder why my TD5 is fine when the tank is well filled, and gets progressively worse as the fuel level goes down.

I know this is an old post but I have recently had fuel issues with my 04 Td5 S2 Discovery.
To keep it short events were as follows
1 Ruptured high pressure fuel line.. repaired in Alice Springs
2 Low fuel in tank and hard to start
3 New non return valve in filter housing along with filter change.
4 Still hard to start and fuel aerated
5 Removed fuel pump after learning via another blog that there is a fine filter in the bottom of the fuel pump
6 Remove filter from bottom of pump and remove fuel gauge sender unit.
remove cover over main pump to reveal fine filter see attached photo
Reason for aerated fuel is when tank get low and fine filter is blocked the pump had to "source" fuel higher up filter hence air getting into fuel.
As pump was starved of fuel it cavitated hence the howling sound
Removed at least a half teaspoon of trash from fine filter before I washed it with household cleaner and blew it dry with compressed air.
Reassembled pump and refitted to vehicle, did bleed cycle and hey presto we had instant start and a vehicle that runs a whole lot better.
Hope this is of help to all out there because I do now wonder how many pumps have been discarded due to this filter being blocked
PS If this is of help to others and you wish to copy and repost I have no problems with that
 

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the non return valve which you mentioned at point 3 is almost useless, there are older models without it at all, the most important there is the air bleed valve which you didnt mention...and that one if it's fubar'd could cause starting issues and air in the system
 
Found the same problem on my Defender 70k miles; absolutely clogged with black jelly like cack. Even after changing the air sepaerator in the filte rhousing the diesel looked like fizzy pop [run it into a jug] When the jelly stuff dried out looked like fine soil particles.

Removed a load more of the gunk by using compressed air to blow about a tablespoon of 5-30w down the low pressure pipe and out the gauze.

I haven't checked whether cleaning the fine gauze would have been sufficient to negate the need for a new pump; being impatient we just fitted the replacement part to see if this was the reason for the engine being a non starter. Ultimately it wasn't a mechanical problem with the fuel system at all
 
After reading this topic, I bought a set of O rings and copper washers, had to make a 'special' tool from a tyre lever to get the injectors out, fitted them, 2 hrs later Landy running perfectly. This was AFTER a local Land Rover garage told me the pump was at fault. THANK YOU.
 
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