TD5 90 Project

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Done, still blowing the swarf off but you get the idea.
Next is headlights surrounds, grill and LRS Guards.
Then a re-design of front end, going to sell the Safari Lights STC 8480, (paypal and post).
PM me and make an offer?
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Front end touch up, new light guards dusted with raptor, NSF snow cowl,new lamp surrounds only had them hanging up in garg for about 2 years, decieed to fit em insteand of headbutting them everytime i reach accross my bench!
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Selling my Safari 5000 Driving Lights and the Headlight / Sidelight Guards, listed in the 'parts for sale' section on here ;):rolleyes:
 
Oil Service today, cold fingers for once i did not mind the hot filter and ex manifold on my arms.
I keep a works record, cant be doing with reciepts, service items are always LR or Mann.
I ran a higher frequency oil change when i first got it as it had not been looked after or maintained for a while, then settled into annual oil servicing etc.
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Just ordered new;
  • Brake master cylinder (TRW)
  • Brake compensating bias valve
  • Another reel of Kunifer (cupro-nickel) brake pipe
So new front end brake actuation and lines, thus completing the entire brake line system, with braided instead of flexi etc.
Pics of skinned knuckles to follow of course.....
 
Just eying up your list and remembered you used oem rubber for the bushes. I’d also prefer this on mine! I assume you have a press in your workshop? Did the a frame arm bushes etc need a lot of welly to get in? Cheers
 
@resto_d1
Actually in the end I used supa pro Poly Blues on all of A Frame with a Lemforder ball joint, same for front and rear Radius arms.
Panhard I pressed out and in myself.The terrafirma Reds for the panhard were total junk and swapped to Supa pro Blue, burnt out the old rubber ones and used a Lidl's air hammer to push out the old metal sleeves, worked a treat, even with my asthmatic compressor, then a vice and plenty of lube to slip em in twas a doddle.
Finished all in Corroless glass paint using closest match for colour all round etc
I found the ride I was after with the Supa Pro Blues, but they not cheap, i guess you get what you pay for etc, all one piece as well, so silly split poly's that create a mid ridge in the sleeve etc. I got the arms as refurbs and had the chap who refurbs and paints them pop in the bushes. he did say he would buy my old ones but then dropped the price he would pay for them, no biggy, but ****ed me off etc, cant fault his work, but his approach to business is questionable etc. Then sold my old ones as ripe for refurb etc. Very pleased with result, more pics of fitting earlier in this thread etc.
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KISSMYAURA said:
@resto_d1
Actually in the end I used supa pro Poly Blues on all of A Frame with a Lemforder ball joint, same for front and rear Radius arms.
The terrafirma Reds for the panhard were total junk and swapped to Supa pro Blue for the Corroless glass paint all round etc
I found the ride I was after with the Supa Pro Blues, but they not cheap, i guess you get what you pay for etc, all one piece as well, so silly split poly's that create a mid ridge in the sleeve etc. I got the arms as refurbs and had the chap who oaints them pop the busehs in then backed my ones as exchange etc. Very pleased with result, more pics of fitting earlier in this thread etc.View attachment 231591View attachment 231592View attachment 231593View attachment 231594View attachment 231595View attachment 231596View attachment 231597 View attachment 231598
Click to expand...

thanks very much. I’d leant towards super pros as when delving oem bushes aren’t what they were. I’ve got a little knock which I suspect will be a frame. If I can get through mot in March without cost I’ll get the set ordered and make a start
 
@resto_d1 sent you his details, via PM. as I said his work was great, and I gave him the FAL code and he matched the colour very well but tired to welch on the price to buy mine, I sold them easy enough
  • Professionally Shot Blasted (Hodge&Clemco)
  • Corroless Glass Reinforced Chassis Paint
  • Lemforder Ball Joint ‘G Suffix’
  • A2 stainless bolts hardened
  • Corroless Rust Inhibiting Primer
  • Corroless RF16 Top Coats in matched colour
 
KISSMYAURA said:
@resto_d1 sent you his details, via PM. as I said his work was great, and I gave him the FAL code and he matched the colour very well but tired to welch on the price to buy mine, I sold them easy enough
  • Professionally Shot Blasted (Hodge&Clemco)
  • Corroless Glass Reinforced Chassis Paint
  • Lemforder Ball Joint ‘G Suffix’
  • A2 stainless bolts hardened
  • Corroless Rust Inhibiting Primer
  • Corroless RF16 Top Coats in matched colour
Click to expand...
A Frame was easy enough, all bolts came out after over night soaking etc, the actual Ball joint was a bugger but thats due to TD5 access and tank etc, again see earlier in this thread etc
 
Final Phase (Brakes Replacement)
  • Master Cylinder
  • Bias Valve
  • All front brake lines M cylinder to Bias valve and to wheels.
Started around 10am, all done by 4pm.
No nightmares, used Sealey pro pressure bleeder, with Pagid Dot 5.1bled up like a treat, i did think the NSF line would be a PIA, but was just like that game with the wire, the ring and the buzzer, just threaded through with steady hand, had a pal helping etc, right tools job goes well.
new nipples and dust covers all round, its now beer o'clock.

One slight hitch is Dexter the 5yr Vizla decided to steal my tub of hand cleaning wipes, and leg it round the garden with the tub swinging under his chin, soon foiled with a bribe of a jammy doger, job done, he then proceeded to sit under the truck and fart for the rest of the afternoon.:D
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Just supping a beer or two with my pal, discussing torque settings etc, explained to him until a few years back i used the old fashioned 3 level of tight method of a torque wrench.
1) Tight
2) Red face Tight
3) Soil yer pant or hernia Tight.

he just spat out his beer and fell off his chair laughing
:D
 
Brake servo and vac pipes next, ( no stock anywhere at the time) so will play pin/arm adjustment then, @jamesmartin silly Q direction of turn to extend / retract arm? assume AC for out etc, but always appreciate a tip!.

Not the best order to do things in but hey hoe fun n frolics with the truck!
 
Still got the BIG ONE to do the clutch and Flywheel and associated actuation pipes n master etc.....................
then it will be an offical Triggars Broom !
 
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