Tailgate Door Handle replacement

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Loved the video, showed the procedure, my favourite bit was when he tested the window inching several times, before he slammed the end of the window seal in the door, not once, not twice, LOL
 
Hi guys,Can anyone tell me what size length and width in mm are the captive screws that hold the handle on and is there anywhere that sells them or is there an alternative as the ones on mine have snapped due to rust.
 
They're captive, so you can't get them out of the plastic, not without destroying the plastic anyway. Normally the plastic bolt retainer is what gives up, leaving the bolts stuck in the door.

They're not normal bolts either, but specially made for the job. So unless you have access to a lathe, and can remove the rusted stops without destroying the plastic, your kinda stuck with replacing the handle. ;)
 
Thanks for the reply Nodge68,
So is replacing with a new handle the only option? I dont mind replacing even with a new one but if i could keep the cost down
by doing the labour myself would help.
It is the plastic housing that has snapped aswell leaving the bolts in the door panel.
In lamens terms what are my options?
Thanks again guys.
 
Don't fart about with rusty bolts in the door and broken plastic bits in the tailgate handle. Stick it back on with a bead of THIS STUFF
It's neat, waterproof, and very, very strong. Known in the marine trade as The Devil's Adhesive.

P.S. And forget the rubber gasket.
 
Hi guys,Just phoned up to have the handle replaced after being quoted £140-£150 ish back in February only for them to say that since April the price has rocketed due to a backlog at Land Rover so the quote is now £240+ VAT
 
Rank Amatuer said:
Don't fart about with rusty bolts in the door and broken plastic bits in the tailgate handle. Stick it back on with a bead of THIS STUFF
It's neat, waterproof, and very, very strong. Known in the marine trade as The Devil's Adhesive.

P.S. And forget the rubber gasket.
Click to expand...


Does this stuff really work?
I have an MOT due next week so need to either pay up or rough fix it to get it through the mot.
 
Last edited:
carpermark78 said:
Does this stuff really work?
I have an MOT due next week so need to either pay up or rough fix it to get it through the mot.
Click to expand...

Worked for my FL1. No bolts, just a bead of Sikaflex around the handle, a few blobs underneath where they can't be seen. Held it in place with gaffer tape until stuff set. Completely watertight and seems plenty secure enough.

And it's not a rough fix. It's Permanent with a capital 'P'.
 
Ok so the handle works fine opening and closing?
I have just ordered a tube of the stuff so will follow you’re instructions of applying the sealant and post my results.
Thanks again Rank Amature.
 
carpermark78 said:
Ok so the handle works fine opening and closing?
I have just ordered a tube of the stuff so will follow you’re instructions of applying the sealant and post my results.
Thanks again Rank Amature.
Click to expand...

Yes, door handle works fine. Just don't get any of the sealant on moving parts.
 
You can repair the handle with spouting bolts. I've done it 3 or 4 times now and haven't had any fail after. Last time I used Poundland epoxy but before I've used strong silicone. The first job though it to repair the holes in the door, or at least rub back and paint with hammerite or similar.


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Hi guys just a quick update,I managed to get a used handle from local scrap yard that came with the bolts and nuts still attached for £15.
Fitted it first time and now it works a treat.
Only minor issue is that the new one had the land rover badge missing so i managed to get the one off my old handle and stuck it to the new one.....Jobs a gud un
 
Looking on eBay, new OEM rear tailgate handles can be had for about £100 - but I may try Alibro's fix first! I've also got a hole in the door to repair too... :rolleyes:
 
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