hi all, im getting the 3 amigos. plugged in nanocom, said it was left wheel sensor. fine, changed hub and sensor with a new oem and after a short drive three amigos are back!! same error. any idea? could it be a caliper issue? or maybe the slabs ecu itself? if it is the ecu itself, which is the best version to get?
Disco 2 Stubborn 3 amigos!!
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sierrafery
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Hi, there are cases when nanocom mixes up the sensor positions with the fault code, see live stationary inputs cos those are always correct(they all should be between 2 - 2.3V) and if you see one different than the other 3 that's the real problem despite of the code... if they are all OK stationary it might be a bad contact in the ECU's plug or the ECU at fault, if you want to replace it get one removed from a facelift, SRD500070 is the best
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There used to be a thing with nanocoms that they would tell you which wheel the error was caused by, but wrongly.
Happened to me that I took mine to a LR indy garage, they plugged their diagnostic in, told me it was the nearside rear, I changed the hub and it was one on the same axle but the other side that had gone fubar.
What does your nano tell you it is now?
Honestly I dont think its the driver side as i had replaced that not long ago. Now both front ones are less than a few months old but still having the errors come up!
Ok, will try that although last time i tried to get some live data from the slabs system, my nanocom kept loosing connection so im bot hopeful ill manage. Maybe its really time for a new slabs ecu.
sierrafery
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You can read only STATIONARY inputs
well as usual, you re right lol. even though i got a left sensor error, reading the live data while stationary shows that right side to be different from the rest. still within range as the others @2.21V but the rest are all 2.19V. Now since the hub and sensor on that side is also quite new, makes me wonder if it is the sensor, or if it is something else. maybe a weak earth somewhere?
yeah, seems like i do have a mix up somewhere. reading live data i get 2.19V on all apart from the RIGHT side which is 2.21!
sierrafery
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I already said, if they are all between 2 - 2.3V it passes the self test so no reason for the 3 amigos, if there are differencies within this range the TC is mixed up a bit nothing else
sierrafery
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If you are so smart why do you ask? ... maybe they should be the same on a.new vehicle which leaves the factory or if all the sesors are the same brand and batch... that 0.3V margin was made with a good reason otherwise the 3 amigos woud be on 90% of the time... though maybe i'm wrong
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That tiny difference will not affect the performance of your ABS system. Why don't you swop the inputs from the two rears and see if the error moves as well?
Or maybe easier still, disconnect the one where there is supposed to be a fault and see if it still see the same fault. If you now have two faults one on each hub you will know that your diagnostic has got its knickers in a twist.
There only has to be a small amount of play in the .5 of a mm gap between the sensor and the reluctor ring for the pooter to see a fault.
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sierrafery
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...spot onI did not understand this bit, can you please elaborate. I have heard that sometimes shims are required, is this what this is about?
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Nothing to do with shims. simply that when a new hub with its sensor is fitted the gap between the tip of the sensor and the toothed ring that rotates and therefore induces a current in the sensor is very small, about .5 of a mm.
If the hub is only in the slightest kn@ckered this gap will vary and this variation in the speed signal tells the SLABS ECU to put up a warning light, or three usually, and it also usually switches off at least part of the system(s). So you can see why shims make no difference although some people do go on about them.
This is how I understand it and I have had to change hubs etc a few times now. You cannot feel the play in the hub as you would expect to, but the sensor senses it.
@sierrafery will confirm all this, or tell me what I got right and what I got wrong.
sierrafery
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In general you are spot on except this:
the corrections are:
1. if it's a variation in speed signal caused by the gap while it's still within the accepted margin there will be no warning lights just the active braking modes will be mixed up in most cases TC or ABS erratic behaviour
2. once the gap exceeds the accepted limit in movement the ECU gets the stationary input on that wheel while it reads higher voltages according to the vehicle speed from the others and triggers the 3(or 4) amigos with an air gap related fault code logged... that's the perfect behaviour but there are case when the code is reported wrongly as electrical albeit it's caused by the gap(specific LR oddity) hence the necessity to check stationary inputs cos if the fault is really electrical the stationary input on that wheel will be out of the 2 - 2.3V range.
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Cheers mate!
I am finally getting a bit better at this, albeit without the level of sophistication that you bring to it all!
Thanks the hub on the other side is only a couple of months old so that is why im surprised there is a difference. The hubs in the rear are a few years old and they are the same as the new one. I think i will need to do some investigating. Also ordered a slabs ecu they are cheap enough 
thanks for the details!
So i went to unplug the right side and noticed the plug was not fully seated, so that will surely cause issues! So now i cleaned the plug, put it back together and cleared the fault codes. will try to go for a run tonight to see if the 4 amigos reappear.
