Steve's unexpected Series 3 rebuild.

LincolnSteve · Sep 12, 2017

Hi. I think it's realistic to repair the tub. I don't know of a way to spot weld aluminium so I will be relying on rivets. If I remember correctly the rear quarter panels have some spot welds but mostly rivets.
One of my side panels must have been replaced in the past and it has been rivetted. It looks ok but of course is not original spec.
The thing with mine is that it has been so badly bodged in the past that it is not always easy to know how it should have been.
I will try to post some photos but unfortunately I am so busy at the moment that I have not really been in the garage for about a month and I can't get the Landy out because of other gubbins piled in front of it. I am off work next week so I hope to make some progress again.

Shropshire classic · Sep 12, 2017

Still new here so wonderering around the forum and came across your thread, great job but a pity about the lack of photos, as good as a description may be "a picture paints a thousand words". Keep it coming though as I will be following with interest even though I don't have a series. Martyn

Stretch · Sep 12, 2017

LincolnSteve said:
Hi. I think it's realistic to repair the tub. I don't know of a way to spot weld aluminium so I will be relying on rivets...

The trick is meant to be to use a normal resistance spot welder but place some steel scraps either side of the joint

I'll be trying that in the next few days (will post in me own thread - don't worry!)

LincolnSteve · Sep 12, 2017

ShrThanks hire classic said:
Still new here so wonderering around the forum and came across your thread, great job but a pity about the lack of photos, as good as a description may be "a picture paints a thousand words". Keep it coming though as I will be following with interest even though I don't have a series. Martyn

Hi Martyn. Thanks for the comments. I hadn't realised all my photos had disappeared. I used to use photobucket. They were free for ages but then they demanded a big fee. There was no way I was paying so it looks like the photos are gone. I've got them all saved elsewhere but don't have time to reinstate them all. lots of photos from now on promise.

Russbus · Sep 14, 2017

LincolnSteve said:
So in October 2014 I finally got myself a petrol 88inch series 3. I have no real reason to own one but I have wanted one since I was a boy. Of course because it's my first Land Rover it has turned out to be in much worse condition than I thought. If I had any sense I should have bitten the bullett and replaced the chassis. But because i'm daft I decided that I want to get it through at least a couple more MOT's with it's original chassis and bulkhead first.

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It looks pretty good if you don't get too close. At least James liked it.
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Any way the more I poked about the more it became obvious that some major work was going to be needed so the strip down began.

Trying to view your photos but unable to even after signing up at photobucket , any ideas how to view them thanks

Alibro · Sep 14, 2017

Russbus said:
Trying to view your photos but unable to even after signing up at photobucket , any ideas how to view them thanks

Photobucket has decided to destroy all threads like this one right across the internet by asking an extortionate amount of money to continue doing what they previously did for free. You'll not see the photo's unless LincolnSteve sells his soul to the devil.

bazanaius · Sep 16, 2017

I was having a think about mine last night, and I've started thinking that bonding it back together rather than trying to spot weld aluminium in my garden might be the way forward.

Does anyone know where you can get NOS (i.e. aluminium rather than ABS) tub side panels (wings)? Or someone who's looking to get rid of a decent one? I can find the back panel OK but wings don't seem to exist. It's an 88" 2A.

LincolnSteve · Sep 16, 2017

bazanaius said:
I was having a think about mine last night, and I've started thinking that bonding it back together rather than trying to spot weld aluminium in my garden might be the way forward.

Does anyone know where you can get NOS (i.e. aluminium rather than ABS) tub side panels (wings)? Or someone who's looking to get rid of a decent one? I can find the back panel OK but wings don't seem to exist. It's an 88" 2A.

I don't know of anyone who makes them. It's strange when so many parts are available these days that some really useful parts that must often be needed are unavailable. Maybe ebay for NOS or get a whole tub and strip the bits that you need.

bazanaius · Sep 17, 2017

Indeed - finding a good condition spare one of those seems to be extremely difficult; the bottom of the wheel arches are so easy to damage.

I will continue the hunt!

LincolnSteve · Nov 17, 2017

Hello.
It's been a while since I've been on and yet there's still not much to update you with.
I've been working on the gearbox recently. I'm not getting too far into it, just o rings, oil seals and a good clean.

A while back you may remember that I took it across to @jamesmartin and it was decided that nothing looked terribly wrong with it and it was worth trying to get away with just sticking it back in. This was good news, especially from such an expert.

So the clean up began.

LincolnSteve · Nov 17, 2017

Now here's a puzzle.
Clutch release fork. Clearly marked with the part number 576138. My parts book says it should be 576137.
Neither Paddocks nor Craddocks list 576138 at all so it's not even from a different model land rover.
576137 is listed but it's about £30 considering that the only problem with mine is shown in the next picture.

That very knackered little insert goes in the arm as you can see and holds the shaft from the slave cylinder in place. It really bugs me to spend £30 when all I really need is a tuppence-hapenny insert but nobody seems to make them separately.

jamesmartin · Nov 17, 2017

you need a push rod too, i may have some reasonable ones

LincolnSteve · Nov 17, 2017

The clutch looks quite good to me. Not too badly worn and no oil contamination. Not bad considering the rear crankshaft oil seal was leaking. I'm thinking of putting it back in. What do you think?

jamesmartin · Nov 17, 2017

yes theres life in that yet it hasnt done too many miles

LincolnSteve · Nov 17, 2017

jamesmartin said:
you need a push rod too, i may have some reasonable ones

That would be very handy. I'd be grateful. Let me know.

jamesmartin · Nov 17, 2017

LincolnSteve said:
That would be very handy. I'd be grateful. Let me know.

will do they use the same arm on v8s and td5s

LincolnSteve · Nov 17, 2017

The ring gear is looking a bit chewed so it will maybe have to go.
The bottom photo shows small cracks on the surface of the flywheel. Might cause a bit of judder. I didn't notice anything during the few drives I managed before starting this saga.

jamesmartin · Nov 17, 2017

perhaps better with another flywheel

Dippypud · Nov 18, 2017

LincolnSteve said:
View attachment 135179 View attachment 135180 View attachment 135181 View attachment 135182 The clutch looks quite good to me. Not too badly worn and no oil contamination. Not bad considering the rear crankshaft oil seal was leaking. I'm thinking of putting it back in. What do you think?
View attachment 135183

I'd scrape the grooves out with a broken hacksaw blade, to help it clear the dust as it's used, I'd put a new pressure plate on though, the fingers on the old one are just a little scuffed ...

Stretch · Nov 18, 2017

LincolnSteve said:
The ring gear is looking a bit chewed so it will maybe have to go.
The bottom photo shows small cracks on the surface of the flywheel. Might cause a bit of judder. I didn't notice anything during the few drives I managed before starting this saga.
View attachment 135184 View attachment 135185 View attachment 135186 View attachment 135187

The green book cheerfully says you can use a chisel to split the starter ring from the flywheel to replace it...

...you can see in my thread what happened to the flywheel when I tried that! I got a replacement flywheel. (Old flywheel is now a weight for a stand)

In your case I'd also go for a new flywheel - those cracks are heat cracks - you could potentially have the flywheel skimmed but I reckon that would probably work out more expensive than replacement. I'd also replace the clutch - even though it looks like it is fairly new - because it has been up against the cracked flywheel I'd just replace all of the friction parts to be on the safe side. X2 on the worn fingers comment from Dippypud

Steve's unexpected Series 3 rebuild.

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