Steve's unexpected Series 3 rebuild.

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if you want someone to look at things with you give me a shout , i often get similar and get a mate to give another view
Thanks for that. I might take you up on that. I think first I will loosly reassemble the doors, windscreen and roof, wheel it out on the drive and start shimming, adjusting and generally beggering about with it and see if there is any decent compromise I can reach.

Up until now I have looked at each new bit of the project as quite exciting but at the moment it just feels like a ball ache. I'm sure the holiday will help and by September the home project should be in hand. Things will look rosier maybe.
 
Ok here's a thought. This thing originally leant heavily towards the drivers side. I have not moved any significant parts of the chassis just repaired the rust. New springs all round and now it leans heavily toward the passenger side. I'm now going to do a test assembly of all the bodywork but i'm thinking that unless I refit the engine and gearbox as well then i'm not going to get a real idea because there still won't be any weight in it. If I assemble, shim, jiggle and get it something like level then fit the engine and gearbox isn't there a chance it just go cockeyed in some other way? What do you all think?
 
Ok here's a thought. This thing originally leant heavily towards the drivers side. I have not moved any significant parts of the chassis just repaired the rust. New springs all round and now it leans heavily toward the passenger side. I'm now going to do a test assembly of all the bodywork but i'm thinking that unless I refit the engine and gearbox as well then i'm not going to get a real idea because there still won't be any weight in it. If I assemble, shim, jiggle and get it something like level then fit the engine and gearbox isn't there a chance it just go cockeyed in some other way? What do you all think?
youve got to have engine and box in to know how the truck is going to sit
 
So as photobucket seems to want to charge $400 to upload photos now they can go and stick it right up their arse.
Let's have a go at using the 'upload a file' button just down here on the bottom right of my screen.
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Well that seems to have worked. Up yours Photobucket.
By the way this is how the tub looked many weeks ago when it was freshly cleaned. I'm miles behind on the photo updates. I'll try to catch up a bit soon.
 
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Surprise, surprise the tub is another disaster area but i'm working through it.
The w section bit that goes right across the back had snapped due to some impact damage on it's already heavily corroded end.
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Here's the new one from YRM alongside the old tired one.
That's it for tonight. As you can see I have not got the hang of posting photos. I'm getting duplicates and text in all the wrong places. Also the crappy old laptop i'm using has got a wonky keyboard and typing is a nightmare. Must be time for bed.
 
Pictures - save the ones you've already uploaded. They might disappear from your photo bucket account.

When uploading the ones here I resize them to have a 1000 pixel width and let the computer work out the height so the perspective is retained. You then don't get this website trying to resize them to your screen all the time.

As for the YRM back end stiffener - what's the plan there? Rivet?
 
Pictures - save the ones you've already uploaded. They might disappear from your photo bucket account.

When uploading the ones here I resize them to have a 1000 pixel width and let the computer work out the height so the perspective is retained. You then don't get this website trying to resize them to your screen all the time.

As for the YRM back end stiffener - what's the plan there? Rivet?
Mostly yes. There were also self tappers that go right through the seal retainer but i'm replacing those with some flush stainless fasteners.
 
Another update. This all happened some time ago but I will try to get up to date soon.
I
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I got everything braced up as I didn't know how wobbly things would get when I started drilling out rivets.
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With the capping removed you can see the impact damage better.
I started having a go and went from this
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To this
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The capping itself was also in a state
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In the end I got it quite well straightened out. On the inside I really gave it some stick with the wire brush on the grinder then painted it with zinc primer. On the outside I was a bit more delicate. Lightly with the grinder and then wire wool to get the rust off but leave a bit of the look of the aged galvanising. Clear satin lacquer over the lot for a bit of protection at the end.
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Then it was time to get rid of the panel altogether.
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I was surprised how rigid the tub stayed even with the panel out.
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Look at the amount of holes in that thing. It was braced with another piece of aluminium behind and is in generally shocking order.
Next I offered in the new panel.
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It looks to fit really well and I was tempted to rivet it straight in but then the paranoia started. There doesn't seem to be much room for adjustment or error. I had checked the door gap and the measurement is about the same but not exactly. It's very close and there doesn't seem to be any way to alter it anyway. Then doubt started niggling away at me. It just seems too easy to just plonk the new panel in place and it just fits first time. I've now started worrying about the door gap and whether the hard top will sit right and so on so even now I still haven't fitted it. Once I've drilled those holes in that lovely new panel that's it, if I have cocked it up somehow and I have to change things it will look a right mess. Got to get brave and just get on with it.

In the meantime, and to allow me more time for worrying, I got on with the underside of the tub.
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This turned out ok. I even painted the inner lip of the wheelarch. Because the previous bodgers had not primed the bodywork properly the old paint peels off in places and that was about the worst. It worked well and I like the colour but it definitely does not match the original. Too late to worry now though and it was far fetched to think it would match anyway.

I was going to wait until my brothers in law were both free to help me lift it back on the chassis but then I had a rare moment of enthusiasm and decided to have a go myself. It took the garage crane, an old duvet and some carefully placed sponge but I managed to flip it over without a scratch.
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Then with a bit of help from our James on the hoist we managed to drop it into place quite easily. I was most worried about the passenger side outrigger that I made and fitted. This is the only part of the chassis where a new piece entirely has been fitted and may not have lined up. All other repairs were just patching. However the holes lined up perfectly and because I had plated over that bit of the front of the tub that was really badly corroded I didn't even need to use the shims that came off when the tub was removed.
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After that I thought it was time to start work on the bulkhead so we put it on to have a shufty at how things look. From the side it looks ok.
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But when you look from the front it all looks very cock eyed with the everything lower on the passenger side.
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Not sure if the picture really shows how wonky things look but trust me in the flesh it looks bad. And this is where we are up to. As you will have seen from previous posts the idea now is to get the engine and gearbox back in and hope that it will magically somehow sit a bit more level. So the bulkhead will have to come off again. Also I should really complete the tub. Plenty to do. Today I have cleaned and tidied the garage. All tools away and loads of rubbish chucked out. It's amazing how it feels better in there. It's still just a cramped double garage but it definitely feels better.
 
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Great stuff Steve, I really enjoyed catching up on your work, thanks for the post.

I'm sure the suspension is designed to be stiffer on the driver's side to account for the driver and fuel. Would that account for your wonk?
 
Great stuff Steve, I really enjoyed catching up on your work, thanks for the post.

I'm sure the suspension is designed to be stiffer on the driver's side to account for the driver and fuel. Would that account for your wonk?
I have been thinking that and I am really hoping it's the case. Unfortunately I have discovered that the bulkhead outriggers are about 2.5 cm out. That's from one mounting point to the other. Not very scientific as i'm measuring to the floor which of course won't be 100% level. So i've got to get the engine and gearbox back in to see what that does and then work out how to gain a bit here and loose a bit there to try and get it acceptably level. To be honest whatever happens I will keep going. It was wonky to the drivers side when I got it and now it's wonky to the passenger side. The transfer box is towards the drivers side as well as the petrol tank and me. If it comes to it I will just have to get stuck into the pies and gain a bit of ballast to level things out while i'm driving. :)
 
Steve - out of interest where did you get the 'W' section for the rear edge of the tub floor? Will need to get some for mine in the near future.

B
 
[QUOTE "bazanaius, post: 4045061, member: 137721"]Steve - out of interest where did you get the 'W' section for the rear edge of the tub floor? Will need to get some for mine in the near future.

B[/QUOTE]
Hi. I got it from YRM metal solutions. It's a really good bit of kit. I think it was about £50. YRM do a lot of good stuff. Good luck with yours.
 
Hi Steve - me again!

After a 'review' of the state of my current tub (and a fruitless search for a good replacement) I've convinced myself that it can be repaired. This will involve replacing both rear panels as you've done with your RHS, and potentially one of the side panels as well (if I can get hold of one).

Are you able to post some (or send some) more detailed pictures of the area that's left when you removed the old panel, and what the new panel looks like?

Is it only held in with rivets to the side panel/wheel arch, or is there spot welding that you've had to cut out?

If there were spot welds, what is your plan for refitting? I guess you could rivet and they're hidden behind the galv? If I replace a side panel I'm worried that the spot welded areas to the wheel arches (seat area) are in a really visible location so I'm not sure the best approach.

Sorry for all the questions - this is a great thread and really useful as you're ahead of me!
 
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