started replacing my door tops today....

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monkfish24

monkfish24

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As per title, started replacing the door tops today, unfortunately the bolts that hold it in have corroded out of the old frame and are now seized solid in the door frame so it's time to dig out the mole grips then angle grinder!

Some photos of progress so far though:



 
Yeah, the bottom door is solid enough to get it through the MOT, the top part was flopping around in the breeze it was that badly rusted! That is on the list of jobs to do, just trying to get it through an MOT first.

Progress before finishing tonight.



And yes the hole in the plastic is from me locking the door and leaving the keys inside...........
 
Last edited:
ben waine said:
Wait what, how did you lock the keys inside....
Click to expand...

I locked the door with the window not fitted, put the tarp over to drop the missus off, came back, unlocked and opened the door, locked it again to get the keys out (they are a bit fiddly to get out when in the unlocked position) put the door top on and closed it to check the seal gap..... Doh!

Anyone know what size the nuts on the bottom are? I can't get the old nuts off at all!
 
If you take the hinge off, might be worth checking wing mirrors, as the door has to come off to do up and undo the Bolts to hold it on ( I just discovered this as my bolts have worked loose, and now I need to get my door off to tighten them, not a big job, just cant be arsed!)
 
The nuts are 7/16" UNF---11/16" a/f spanner. Plenty copperslip on the through bolts so that they do not rip out from rust when you next remove them.
 
ben waine said:
If you take the hinge off, might be worth checking wing mirrors, as the door has to come off to do up and undo the Bolts to hold it on ( I just discovered this as my bolts have worked loose, and now I need to get my door off to tighten them, not a big job, just cant be arsed!)
Click to expand...

Cheers Ben, I have been considering getting them off to give them a clean and respray to black sometime in the future. I'll probably make that a job when it comes to replacing the door bottoms.

divie said:
The nuts are 7/16" UNF---11/16" a/f spanner. Plenty copperslip on the through bolts so that they do not rip out from rust when you next remove them.
Click to expand...

Cool, I'll order a range of UNF anyway for future jobs.
 
Bump said:
Wow... how the hell was your door top even attached to the bottom? :s
Click to expand...

Well.... I didn't check the passenger side when I bought it and I think it was pure luck, the driver side had an aluminium door card holding it all together :eek:

urena said:
i paid £50 each for mine tim fry landrover ready to fit with glass in did not think it to bad
Click to expand...

I think I paid that for the two tops, I toyed with getting them all in but I would still have to take it apart again to paint it all. I don't have much space either to store parts at the moment so I couldn't keep the old stuff as spares.
 
Well the new door top went together this evening, quite nicely considering I had a beer and a wine with a meal. Sat in the front room with the cat supervising! I pay the mortgage so the missus has no say in the matter! :)

Before:


Anyway, I bought a complete set of rails and slider as the ones fitted had moss growing inside. So stripped the glass out of the old set and trial fitted all the pieces together.



Note dirty windows....

Then I drilled the holes, hand brace of course, cats don't like the power drill noise!



And I put just one screw in this corner for now, the top slider rail will get screwed in at each end. The rail in the picture is the aft end rail. This is how the rails should go in, the aluminium piece going around the outside edge, outermost, so to stop the front pane from sliding back.



Et voila, this isn't sealed yet as it needs painting so will have to come apart again at some point. Just ready for the MOT and with some nice clean glass. Took me about two hours in all but I was taking my time.



 
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