Hi. I’m a new member with a 2015 Defender 90. In my wisdom I bought a stainless steel bolt set from Nakatanenga with the plan to do it myself (what could possibly go wrong!). Now that they have arrived I’m getting cold feet. The bolts have all come in individual packets with the appropriate part they apply to ie spare wheel carrier or side door hinges. I just wonder if anyone on here has done the same/similar and can offer me some pearls of wisdom before I start. I should say that I’m not mechanically minded but reasonably practical and feel it should be a job within my capabilities. Thanks in anticipation. Bert
Stainless steel bolt kit
- Thread starter Bert1956
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Litch
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As the bags are all labelled it should be a breeze, just make sure that you don't remove all the fixings at once (i.e. do them one at a time).
Most important, make sure you use a suitable anti-seize on the threads. My personal choice is a dab of Waxoyl, I rebuilt my 90 using SS fixings about 18-years ago and even today anything that needs to be undone comes apart with ease.
Most important, make sure you use a suitable anti-seize on the threads. My personal choice is a dab of Waxoyl, I rebuilt my 90 using SS fixings about 18-years ago and even today anything that needs to be undone comes apart with ease.
Thanks for your reply Litch. The kit came with a number of sachets of anti seize paste which I was planning to use.
I would check the bolts before you install them. If they are A2-70 SS, I wouldn’t use them as they aren’t as strong as 8.8 mild steel. On my rebuild, I replaced every nut, bolt, or screw that I removed with SS. Some of them in stress free applications are A2-80, but most are A4-80.
I would put the anti-seize compound on all surfaces that touch aluminium or steel when fitting too.
Hello Mick. Thanks for that info. As I said in my thread I’m pretty inexperienced in mechanical matters. How can I tell what type of steel has been used? I’ve been back on the website where I bought them but can’t see this type of info. Thanks. Bert.
It is normally etched on the nut and bolt head. It will say A2-70, A2-80, A4-70, or A4-80. Either of the 80 series should be ok.
The job of replacing the bolts is IMHO, and with a bit of common sense, a simple DIY prospect.
BUT, as @mick 1986 has pointed out, all the bolts need to be the right grade ... or you could end up in a world of pain
If they are not clearly marked, or the seller can't re-assure you, in writing that they are all strong enough, I think I'd be getting a refund....
Might be worth a nosy at:-
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion
particularly section 4 of the above .....
BUT, as @mick 1986 has pointed out, all the bolts need to be the right grade ... or you could end up in a world of pain
If they are not clearly marked, or the seller can't re-assure you, in writing that they are all strong enough, I think I'd be getting a refund....
Might be worth a nosy at:-
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion
particularly section 4 of the above .....
Thanks @Disco1BFG I’ll get back to the seller to get that info.The job of replacing the bolts is IMHO, and with a bit of common sense, a simple DIY prospect.
BUT, as @mick 1986 has pointed out, all the bolts need to be the right grade ... or you could end up in a world of pain
If they are not clearly marked, or the seller can't re-assure you, in writing that they are all strong enough, I think I'd be getting a refund....
Might be worth a nosy at:-
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion
particularly section 4 of the above .....
Discodevon
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Easy way to tell if they are dog poo is if they are magnetic
exmed wayne
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Eh?
That doesn't mean much..
Some Stainless grades are magnetic to a certain extent.
More importantly is will it be strong enough for the intended application, as said above.
Sometimes stainless bolts can be brittle and will snap when torqued up.
That doesn't mean much..
Some Stainless grades are magnetic to a certain extent.
More importantly is will it be strong enough for the intended application, as said above.
Sometimes stainless bolts can be brittle and will snap when torqued up.
Stock_90_TD5_SW
Active Member
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Hi, Bert! I bought the same kit for my 90 and had them installed. They can be a little tricky to track, but should be relatively straight forward. I didn't use the paste that came with it. I bought some Tef-Gel and we used that. I like the look of the bolts a lot, although they were surprisingly expensive (hope it's the german salaries)
Well the Nakatanenga stainless bolt kits are being used by JLR on the 70th edition Defender.
There are many grades of stainless steel and there is a variation physical and magnetic properties of stainless steel. These bolt kits are sold as stainless steel they are not sold as non magnetic stainless steel. Depending on how stainless steel is worked it can vary the magnetic properties of stainless steel. Since the heads of the bolts are formed and threads formed this increases the magnetic permeability.
Now if you want to try a little experiment get a magnet and use it on a stainless steel sink . Very little attraction on the large flat areas but stronger attraction on the deep drawn corners at the bottom of the sink. Same piece of stainless but with different amounts of working causing different magnetic permeability.
Brendan
There are many grades of stainless steel and there is a variation physical and magnetic properties of stainless steel. These bolt kits are sold as stainless steel they are not sold as non magnetic stainless steel. Depending on how stainless steel is worked it can vary the magnetic properties of stainless steel. Since the heads of the bolts are formed and threads formed this increases the magnetic permeability.
Now if you want to try a little experiment get a magnet and use it on a stainless steel sink . Very little attraction on the large flat areas but stronger attraction on the deep drawn corners at the bottom of the sink. Same piece of stainless but with different amounts of working causing different magnetic permeability.
Brendan
Hi, Bert! I bought the same kit for my 90 and had them installed. They can be a little tricky to track, but should be relatively straight forward. I didn't use the paste that came with it. I bought some Tef-Gel and we used that. I like the look of the bolts a lot, although they were surprisingly expensive (hope it's the german salaries)
View attachment 178597
Thanks. They look really good. It’s nice to know about someone else who’s used them.
