P38A Spurious error messages

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JanaFrances

JanaFrances

Active Member
Posts
93
Location
South West
Hi; now I'm sure I've read about this before years ago when I last had a P38; a few weeks ago he beeped up an ABS FAULT message - I pressed the info button, message went away, and hasn't come back. I don't intend to test the ABS in real life, but in the countryside in winter you never know, and his MOT is now due.
This week he's lighting up 'SRS' light and 'AIRBAG FAULT'. Pressing the info stalk gets rid of the info centre text but the SRS light stays on, and I need it gone for the MOT. Clearing the faults is no problem, but why is he coming up with them? Is it, as I seem to remember, something to do with a low battery somewhere? Because he (cross fingers) starts fine!
 
Srs light came on ours with low battery put new on on and cleared the srs code it not been on since
Or could be wire under the seat been caught
 
P38's are notorious for throwing up faults with a low battery, it may have enough power to start but low in amps. When my battery is low as it stands unused for long periods it usually comes up with traction control fault. I give the battery a good charge and all's good. So try charging the battery first and see how you go before throwing any money at it.
 
Datatek said:
You don't say what year your car is, but if it's post 1999 with side airbags, a common problem is the yellow connector under the seats. Parting and re-seating the connectors often cures the problem.
Click to expand...
I had same problem with mine and did what you advise found the yellow wire under seat was loose
 
Thanks guys, will charge battery, and try to find the yellow connector - he's a 1999/2000 I think, with side airbags - I forgot about them! Will I need to plug in to a systems reader to get rid of the fault message? Presumably the battery thing explains the ABS fault.
 
JanaFrances said:
Thanks guys, will charge battery, and try to find the yellow connector - he's a 1999/2000 I think, with side airbags - I forgot about them! Will I need to plug in to a systems reader to get rid of the fault message? Presumably the battery thing explains the ABS fault.
Click to expand...
The ABS fault may need a reset, the SRS fault may clear when the fault goes.
 
Datatek said:
You don't say what year your car is, but if it's post 1999 with side airbags, a common problem is the yellow connector under the seats. Parting and re-seating the connectors often cures the problem.
Click to expand...
Hi, which yellow connector? I had a quick look and found a large one which appears connected to a motor?? So am assuming not that one...unless my poor eyesight and poor light gave me the wrong idea. The two wires coming out of that both have taped-up joints on them, with what feels like bullet connectors beneath the tape, so that's on the list for later tidying up!
The other yellow connector is much smaller and further back.
But battery charger goes on first, as soon as it stops raining!!
 
JanaFrances said:
Hi, which yellow connector? I had a quick look and found a large one which appears connected to a motor?? So am assuming not that one...unless my poor eyesight and poor light gave me the wrong idea. The two wires coming out of that both have taped-up joints on them, with what feels like bullet connectors beneath the tape, so that's on the list for later tidying up!
The other yellow connector is much smaller and further back.
But battery charger goes on first, as soon as it stops raining!!
Click to expand...
It's the small yellow connector towards the rear of the seat, there is only one yellow connector for each front seat.
 
There are 2 dash bulbs for SRS. If one blows the other lights up.

All SRS wiring has yellow tape. Do not touch without battery disconnected for at least 10 minutes. There are connectors behind the dash, and the driver's kick panel, I think. Maybe under the Range Rover plate hiding the trunking by the door? Then there's the ring thing on the steering wheel.
 
The yellow connector under the seat is very obvious if you have one
Mine sometimes throws a fault so i turn the ignition off, reach down and give the wire a wiggle, then turn the ignition back on and that's usually the fault solved for a few months.
The way i see it, giving it a wiggle is no different than the vibration and movement it normally receives through normal operation so i personally don't bother disconnecting the battery for this particular fix. I leave battery disconnection for when/if i need to pull apart or reconnect SRS connectors
I'm not saying it's the right or proper thing to do just that it works for me
 
I'd charge the battery first and see if anything comes back or take it for a really good run and enjoy it. ;)
A duff battery can start a car but not have enough in reserve for the Ecu's on startup. The starter motor takes the biggest chomp from the electric stored in the battery, if the battery is weak the Ecu's are robbed on startup and show up as faults. Once running they'll disappear or remain In the memory.
If in doubt have the battery tested at a trusted garage and see what their advice is. The biggest/most powerfull battery you can squeeze into the battery tray is the best way to ensure its got enough juice to keep everything happy on startup. ;)
 
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