Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
- Posts
- 10,146
- Location
- Altrincham, Cheshire
Morning boyos 
So, pretty late session in the shop last night
By 2am I didn't fancy any typing so allow me to update y'all now
Bit of a late start really which didn't help, was finishing a cambelt job on a BLEURGH Mitsubishi L200 2.5Td, although tbh with it's spring tensioners etc it was a little better thought out than a Land Rover
So that took til about 7.30.
Then I had to put my Dynabeads in my new tyres, I had washed and weighed the beads I took out of he old tyres during the day, I used to have 8oz all round but now I have put 10oz in the fronts and 6oz in the rear, i think this will help better with any front wheel shake.
If you don't know what I'm on about: Dynabeads Tyre Balancers. The dynamic way to balance your tyres.
This took a while because I was originally planning to send them through the valve on the car but it ended up with taking the wheels off and popping the outer bead down on each one to pour the beads in, so it took longer than expected, as is the law with LR tasks.
The main task for the evening was my headlamp loom, for which the wiring finally arrived after a week, thankyou Royal Mail
Fairly straightforward to be honest, I constructed it as a piggyback kit so that if anything fails I could simply disconnect and plug original wiring back into the lamps.
Equally if original lighting circuit fails, I can easily excite the relays to switch on my new lighting circuits with the use of a few short pieces of wire stuffed into the correct terminals.
Anyway, here's a pic
You can see the old wiring plugged into male H4 connector, this is taking dip and main beam feeds TO the relays, these are now not powering the lamps directly, simply telling either of the relays to switch on.
You can see fatter wiring going into and H4 female on the back of the lamp, this is an earth direct from the battery, and a pair of wires direct from each relay (there is one relay for dip, one for main, each one supplying both lamps)
So here we have 5 wires at each relay.
They are 5 pin relays, but 4 pin relays work the same tbh, these just have 2 output pins which makes connecting the pair of outputs TO the lamps that little bit more natural.
Anyway at each relay, we have a fused supply direct from battery, an earth direct from battery, either a high or low beam switched supply from old headlamp wiring and 2 feeds to both left and right hand headlamps.
And that's it
The only thing left to do which I didn't fancy by the time I was done was disconnect the dimdip relay, this no longer is useable because when engine is running it will switch the dip beam on fully when the side lamps are on, a nice feature IMO and quite vintage but with this new system it will simply switch them on fully, which is no good.
Headlamps are noticeably brighter by the way
So, pretty late session in the shop last night
By 2am I didn't fancy any typing so allow me to update y'all now
Bit of a late start really which didn't help, was finishing a cambelt job on a BLEURGH Mitsubishi L200 2.5Td, although tbh with it's spring tensioners etc it was a little better thought out than a Land Rover
So that took til about 7.30.
Then I had to put my Dynabeads in my new tyres, I had washed and weighed the beads I took out of he old tyres during the day, I used to have 8oz all round but now I have put 10oz in the fronts and 6oz in the rear, i think this will help better with any front wheel shake.
If you don't know what I'm on about: Dynabeads Tyre Balancers. The dynamic way to balance your tyres.
This took a while because I was originally planning to send them through the valve on the car but it ended up with taking the wheels off and popping the outer bead down on each one to pour the beads in, so it took longer than expected, as is the law with LR tasks.
The main task for the evening was my headlamp loom, for which the wiring finally arrived after a week, thankyou Royal Mail
Fairly straightforward to be honest, I constructed it as a piggyback kit so that if anything fails I could simply disconnect and plug original wiring back into the lamps.
Equally if original lighting circuit fails, I can easily excite the relays to switch on my new lighting circuits with the use of a few short pieces of wire stuffed into the correct terminals.
Anyway, here's a pic
You can see the old wiring plugged into male H4 connector, this is taking dip and main beam feeds TO the relays, these are now not powering the lamps directly, simply telling either of the relays to switch on.
You can see fatter wiring going into and H4 female on the back of the lamp, this is an earth direct from the battery, and a pair of wires direct from each relay (there is one relay for dip, one for main, each one supplying both lamps)
So here we have 5 wires at each relay.
They are 5 pin relays, but 4 pin relays work the same tbh, these just have 2 output pins which makes connecting the pair of outputs TO the lamps that little bit more natural.
Anyway at each relay, we have a fused supply direct from battery, an earth direct from battery, either a high or low beam switched supply from old headlamp wiring and 2 feeds to both left and right hand headlamps.
And that's it
The only thing left to do which I didn't fancy by the time I was done was disconnect the dimdip relay, this no longer is useable because when engine is running it will switch the dip beam on fully when the side lamps are on, a nice feature IMO and quite vintage but with this new system it will simply switch them on fully, which is no good.
Headlamps are noticeably brighter by the way
