nrgserv
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 4,208
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- shipley, west yorks.
guess their already about, as the emp's being dumped from transmitter towers and wifi's already affects some ecu's!
Some pics of my Disco :D
- Thread starter Mr Noisy
- Start date
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Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
- Posts
- 10,146
- Location
- Altrincham, Cheshire
How to fit Whitbread bucket seats to your Discovery in 10 easy steps
First, take out your old seats, which are actually surprisingly lightweight
Then, get your new seats upturned and ready for measuring
Then, produce a particularly shonky cardboard template out of an old air filter box, marking out the bolt hole patterns for both seat and rail, I picked up the front inner bolt as a common as it was the correct sort of position and gave a reference to work from
Then, take this shonky template to your nearest metal fabricator and ask them to turn it into two pieces of 3mm stainless steel. Apologise to them for the shonkiness of the template. NB both plates are identical you just use them in reverse.
Also ask them to make the bolt holes 8mm, not 6mm like me because you just guessed like me, otherwise like me you will have to go back tail between legs and ask them to drill them out to 8mm for you
Then test fit the plate to the seat, put a bolt in the common hole and check for alignment. You will have to file out the holes a bit in places because the template was shonky
When finished, bolt to the seat and then mark through on the seat where the rail holes are
Because then you will have to remove the plate and recess the bottom of the seat to allow for the bolt heads where you are going to bolt the plate to the rail
Next up test fit the plate to the rails. Like me, your cardboard template will be shonky so more filing will be required to make it fit
Once sorted, bolt the plate down to the rails, use nylok nuts and check that access is clear for the bolts which thread into the seat from below.
Offer up the seat, start with the common bolt through the rail and plate, then find the others and bolt the seat(s) down.
Done
First, take out your old seats, which are actually surprisingly lightweight
Then, get your new seats upturned and ready for measuring
Then, produce a particularly shonky cardboard template out of an old air filter box, marking out the bolt hole patterns for both seat and rail, I picked up the front inner bolt as a common as it was the correct sort of position and gave a reference to work from
Then, take this shonky template to your nearest metal fabricator and ask them to turn it into two pieces of 3mm stainless steel. Apologise to them for the shonkiness of the template. NB both plates are identical you just use them in reverse.
Also ask them to make the bolt holes 8mm, not 6mm like me because you just guessed like me, otherwise like me you will have to go back tail between legs and ask them to drill them out to 8mm for you
Then test fit the plate to the seat, put a bolt in the common hole and check for alignment. You will have to file out the holes a bit in places because the template was shonky
When finished, bolt to the seat and then mark through on the seat where the rail holes are
Because then you will have to remove the plate and recess the bottom of the seat to allow for the bolt heads where you are going to bolt the plate to the rail
Next up test fit the plate to the rails. Like me, your cardboard template will be shonky so more filing will be required to make it fit
Once sorted, bolt the plate down to the rails, use nylok nuts and check that access is clear for the bolts which thread into the seat from below.
Offer up the seat, start with the common bolt through the rail and plate, then find the others and bolt the seat(s) down.
Done
auf_wiedersehen_pet
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 2,456
- Location
- The Solent
Like it
Is that the phone number of a takeaway on the card template.
Is that the phone number of a takeaway on the card template.
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
- Posts
- 10,146
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- Altrincham, Cheshire
Like it
Is that the phone number of a takeaway on the card template.
No actually that's my phone number, not sure
1. Why it's on there
2. Why it's on there twice
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
- Posts
- 10,146
- Location
- Altrincham, Cheshire
Finally my switches are blanked! No more green light in the eye!!
Many thanks to Classic Kev for being a gent and bringing them over to me, great to meet you mate!
Many thanks to Classic Kev for being a gent and bringing them over to me, great to meet you mate!
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
- Posts
- 10,146
- Location
- Altrincham, Cheshire
Little switch panel for the roof console finished and ready to fit
JoelC
Active Member
- Posts
- 776
- Location
- South Yorkshire
No actually that's my phone number, not sure
1. Why it's on there
2. Why it's on there twice
That's early onset alzhimers for you.
Looks good...
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
- Posts
- 10,146
- Location
- Altrincham, Cheshire
Half shaft woes in the pipeline!
Have switched out all the twisted shafts now but am looking around for upgrade options...
Have switched out all the twisted shafts now but am looking around for upgrade options...
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
- Posts
- 10,146
- Location
- Altrincham, Cheshire
Also
Picked up these cheap enough on eBay
Mine are a bit crusty but never justified changing them but I am looking at buying some of these
Which will give the damper mounts a bit more of a workout so one must make preparation!
Aiming to get rid of the bouncy rolly land rover I currently have. I have lockers so am not too bothered about flex, I just want it to be much firmer on and off road be jade currently it rolls too much and bottoms out easy, mainly because I carry so much weight, when it was unladen the procomps were excellent
Cheers
Picked up these cheap enough on eBay
Mine are a bit crusty but never justified changing them but I am looking at buying some of these
Which will give the damper mounts a bit more of a workout so one must make preparation!
Aiming to get rid of the bouncy rolly land rover I currently have. I have lockers so am not too bothered about flex, I just want it to be much firmer on and off road be jade currently it rolls too much and bottoms out easy, mainly because I carry so much weight, when it was unladen the procomps were excellent
Cheers
classic kev
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 3,514
Hi Noisy, just catching up. Looking good.
BTW good to meet you too, if you're over my way by all means drop in.
BTW good to meet you too, if you're over my way by all means drop in.
200tdi ayre
Well-Known Member
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- 5,832
- Location
- Ashbourne (sometimes)
Don't say that! All he does is slows progress and makes oil leak all over my floor !!
haha
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
- Posts
- 10,146
- Location
- Altrincham, Cheshire
Don't say that! All he does is slows progress and makes oil leak all over my floor !!
Yes, visiting is not recommended
discomark10
Well-Known Member
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- 3,977
- Location
- Milton Keynes
Are you going to run duel shocks? Or do they offer more damping?
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
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- Altrincham, Cheshire
single shock mark, keep the weight down, but these expedition shocks are much firmer than stock.
they are something like 8cm diameter!!
they are something like 8cm diameter!!
discomark10
Well-Known Member
- Posts
- 3,977
- Location
- Milton Keynes
Might be worth getting some higher rate springs to match the shocks.
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
- Posts
- 10,146
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- Altrincham, Cheshire
I figured that my 3" lift springs being bearmach would be firm enough tbh! Will try it and see!
Soft springs firmly damped in theory should work nicely!
Soft springs firmly damped in theory should work nicely!
Mr Noisy
Coming in your ears.
- Posts
- 10,146
- Location
- Altrincham, Cheshire
Think I might start working on an improved on board air system for my car also.
I currently have the old type ARB compressor which works admirably for the lockers, but I also lug around the big Britpart twin pump compressor that never gets used.
I should ditch the ARB unit which runs at 90 psi in favour of a 150 psi system (or whatever max pressure on the britpart unit is) and then drop down to 90 psi for the lockers.
I would then also run a much larger air receiver somewhere in the vehicle, to give me good air tool and tyre inflation capability
Plus the small amount of air that my ARBs leak will not be noticed by the bugger system whereas it causes the small compressor to run rather often!
Watch this space!
I currently have the old type ARB compressor which works admirably for the lockers, but I also lug around the big Britpart twin pump compressor that never gets used.
I should ditch the ARB unit which runs at 90 psi in favour of a 150 psi system (or whatever max pressure on the britpart unit is) and then drop down to 90 psi for the lockers.
I would then also run a much larger air receiver somewhere in the vehicle, to give me good air tool and tyre inflation capability
Plus the small amount of air that my ARBs leak will not be noticed by the bugger system whereas it causes the small compressor to run rather often!
Watch this space!
Shortandfluffy
New Member
- Posts
- 15
- Location
- Luton
Nice, mine will look as good as that one day
