Some pics of my Disco :D

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great build thread mate, nice truck! some quality ideas aswell.

i never realised disco's came with the option of a heated front screen, i may have to add one to my ever-expanding to-do list, lol.

how effective is it on a cold morning?

cheers, Joey.
 
joey736 said:
great build thread mate, nice truck! some quality ideas aswell.

i never realised disco's came with the option of a heated front screen, i may have to add one to my ever-expanding to-do list, lol.

how effective is it on a cold morning?

cheers, Joey.
Click to expand...

Join the club. I fitted a heated winscreen three years ago - just need to wire the damn thing up!
 
Yeah I spent a few hours with the angle grinder adapting my 200 windscreen aperture to take a 300 heated screen!!

Awesome on frosty mornings or just when steamed up, use it more than the heater! :)
 
Mr Noisy said:
Yeah I spent a few hours with the angle grinder adapting my 200 windscreen aperture to take a 300 heated screen!!

Awesome on frosty mornings or just when steamed up, use it more than the heater! :)
Click to expand...

What's involved with this then Noisy? :confused: never thought of it until now, plus I have a big chip on the screen.

Pics as usual............
 
Well Ian it came about because my heater was shoite/unreliable and on cold snow play mornings I was stuck with a frosty screen!

So, I asked my breaker for a 300 heater screen, 85 quid.

And half of it didn't work.

Luckily got my money back!!

Spoke to my windscreen supplier and be got me a new one for £170.

I assumed it would fit but turns out its different.

So basically (no pics I'm afraid) the 300 has a different aperture because it is a bonded screen as opposed to gasketed.

The 300 has different pillars, which are thicker so that they meet the screen without the need for a gasket. The screen itself is slightly taller so that it meets the roof and scuttle without the need for a gasket.

Therefore, I had a wide screen but pillars that were much too narrow.

I decided to use the gasket but in hindsight may have looked at modding the pillar mounting areas.

Anyway, obviously with the gasket fitted to the new screen it was going to be far too tall because the new screen is oversize to accommodate no gasket. It was also too narrow because my pillars were designed for the wider 200 gasketed screen.

As such, I had to grind the top off the centre areas of the upper and lower body seams, effectively flattening the curve in the body seam when viewed from the front if the car, so that the screen JUST squeezed in. Probably took 5mm off a 10mm seam. Maybe 3mm, not sure.

As for the sides, the screen fitted easy, so we squirted a good tube of not two of sikaflex/windscreen sealer into both sides of the gasket to take up the space between screen/gasket/pillar.

Probably 8mm to take up overall on each side of the screen.

A couple years down the line it has been a great mod despite being an absolute **** to fit :D
 
A good mod, but with a gap at the sides does this make any changes to the structural strength do you think? Also if the screen is narrower, you could always add some steel strap to the pillars.

Anyhow just asking lol..

I'm lucky that my heater is very good, even after the entire vent system being filled with water lol
 
GreenHornet said:
A good mod, but with a gap at the sides does this make any changes to the structural strength do you think? Also if the screen is narrower, you could always add some steel strap to the pillars.

Anyhow just asking lol..

I'm lucky that my heater is very good, even after the entire vent system being filled with water lol
Click to expand...

Didn't think the disco was designed with any structural strength! Have you seen how they fold when they go over! :eek:

It's all packed with solid sikaflex there now anyway, so the screen is part bonded, which will be stronger than the original gasket fit anyway!

Wouldn't worry about it myself mate, mine gets the **** hammered out if it and it never creaks or rubs. Used to worry screen would crack but seems all good a few years down the line :)
 
Hello Mr Noisy, Got to ask how does fitting 33's affect the gearing ? Obviously your lose some acceleration but my main concern is whats it like in 5th? again obviously less revs for more mph but does 5th pull ok or are you dropping it down a gear ? Cheers Ant
 
I am running a v8 so i cant comment on diesel, but it is ok on 33s.

tbh they are 32ish really, about 32.5 new at best.

anyway.

it cruises at 65mph at just over 2000rpm which is good for economy in the v8, and it has plenty of driveability at those rpms, but tbh in the v8 youre not going anywhere fast until 3k so i usually drop to 4th anyway!
 
Question I've wanted to ask about the 33's, whats it like for articulation? I want to fit a set to a Disco when I get one again but worried I'll foul the arches. I assume you haven't got a body lift on yours.
 
Nope, no body lift.

I have 3" bearmach springs and 2" procomp dampers, extended arches and a little bit more than standard cutaway inner arches.

There is a little bit of rub but this is also because I have 12.5" tyres on silly stance 10" wheels.

Basically it's about slap bang happy medium and the system as a whole works.

For instance, tyres are just big enough, they just rub, it just clears the sliders and radius arms.

Can't say what it would be like with extreme tyres though, bet it would rip my rear arches off sometimes but muds are fine.

I am reluctant to change anything about the suspension system because it works!
 
Yes, my suspension is in now way incredible and my tyres are distinctly average in gumbo mud, but mainly I lane and it is more than sufficient and still roads well :)
 
Aye I'm banning myself from taking a truck I own to the local pay and play sites, end up braking far too much! :lol:
Strictly green laner and recovery tow vehicle :)
 
Trucks - off road - not handling -

Paris-Dakar_Trucks_DAF_2005.jpg
 
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