Sills / R0ck Sliders / Galvanising question.

trax · Jan 13, 2015

XRIZLAX, people say re galving bulkheads and warping, that it's less likely if it's air dried instead of quenched

also there's not much point galving an old chassis as the internal rust can't be completely shifted and the galv won't stick.

what's your opinion?

XRIZLAX · Jan 13, 2015

ive not seen a bulkhead go through our bath, so i cant reallt say re-warpage.
as for old chassis, we had an old s3 chassis come in before christmas, looked pretty grotty, bit of surface rust, i did take pics but cant find em. we ran it through the bath twice as it came out a bit rough, but after 2nd dip it looedk new.
as for inside, it first goes in an acid bath which depending on length of time its in, will remove all rust, leave it in long enough in the best acid and it will desolve the whole chassis,lol.
i would say if a chassis is more rust than good steel, dont bother as there wont be anything left.
its a 20k doller question really, i suppose if the outside is good, and you run a hamer all the way down the rails and get a good sound ding, then you ok.
we air dry everything.
what usually causes warpage is how its dipped. solid beams etc, 4 ton say, are just crashed into the bath, where stuff like bulkheads or items with airways etc have to be lowered in slowly to allow air to vent out, and then raised to allow drainage.
i would think a jig made and bolted to chassis mounts on the bulkhead wold help prevent any warpage.

trax · Jan 13, 2015

XRIZLAX said:
ive not seen a bulkhead go through our bath, so i cant reallt say re-warpage.
as for old chassis, we had an old s3 chassis come in before christmas, looked pretty grotty, bit of surface rust, i did take pics but cant find em. we ran it through the bath twice as it came out a bit rough, but after 2nd dip it looedk new.
as for inside, it first goes in an acid bath which depending on length of time its in, will remove all rust, leave it in long enough in the best acid and it will desolve the whole chassis,lol.
i would say if a chassis is more rust than good steel, dont bother as there wont be anything left.
its a 20k doller question really, i suppose if the outside is good, and you run a hamer all the way down the rails and get a good sound ding, then you ok.
we air dry everything.
what usually causes warpage is how its dipped. solid beams etc, 4 ton say, are just crashed into the bath, where stuff like bulkheads or items with airways etc have to be lowered in slowly to allow air to vent out, and then raised to allow drainage.
i would think a jig made and bolted to chassis mounts on the bulkhead wold help prevent any warpage.

thanks for answering, yeah i've heard of jigs being used too

Bennehboy · Jan 14, 2015

Any idea of what a 'good price' is for a chassis doing? A bloke on another forum quoted me 150 quid including acid bath which seemed a bit cowboy low to me??

Litch · Jan 14, 2015

With regards to warping, this is my bulkhead after it had been galvanised.

The only bracing was the steel box-section (shown) between the mounting points. Some of the flat panels were slightly distorted but nothing that shows when fitted and nothing was out of alignment afterwards.
I had been told by the galvanisers beforehand to ensure there were plenty of vent holes in the box-sections, the trick is to ensure that whatever angle it is dipped at there are always holes for the air to escape from. I drilled plenty (where they don't show) and it seemed to work for me.

trax · Jan 14, 2015

nice, i do fancy a full rebuild with galved bits when i sort a large shed out

aaronmorris · Jan 14, 2015

trax said:
nice, i do fancy a full rebuild with galved bits when i sort a large shed out

Me too

XRIZLAX · Jan 14, 2015

Litch said:
With regards to warping, this is my bulkhead after it had been galvanised.

The only bracing was the steel box-section (shown) between the mounting points. Some of the flat panels were slightly distorted but nothing that shows when fitted and nothing was out of alignment afterwards.
I had been told by the galvanisers beforehand to ensure there were plenty of vent holes in the box-sections, the trick is to ensure that whatever angle it is dipped at there are always holes for the air to escape from. I drilled plenty (where they don't show) and it seemed to work for me.

what he says, sounds spot on to me.
iam hoping to do a full rebuild in the near future, galv chassis bulkhead, got loads allready galved but iam thinking EVERYTHING galved

XRIZLAX · Jan 14, 2015

Bennehboy said:
Any idea of what a 'good price' is for a chassis doing? A bloke on another forum quoted me 150 quid including acid bath which seemed a bit cowboy low to me??

that sounds a good price, get it sand blasted first, try and get into all the hiden places to make sure all rust is removed, make sure all paint and grease/oil is removed as the acid wont remove it.
the s3 chassis went through the bath twice and was charged about 300 quid.
going through twice removes all paint and grease etc.

Bennehboy · Jan 14, 2015

Reeto, will take it to the shotblasters nearby.

Should hopefully have a chassis in the next few weeks

Discokids · Jan 14, 2015

XRIZLAX, could you tell me the name of this place you work? I'm wanting to get my chassis galvanised along with a few small brackets etc. And I'm considering blasting - back home for repair - galvanised.

XRIZLAX · Jan 14, 2015

ill try and upload the s3 pics,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,

XRIZLAX · Jan 14, 2015

Discokids said:
XRIZLAX, could you tell me the name of this place you work? I'm wanting to get my chassis galvanised along with a few small brackets etc. And I'm considering blasting - back home for repair - galvanised.

joseph ash, holmewood chesterfield, jct 29 M1.

n4th4n · Jan 19, 2015

Litch - do you have a pic with your galvanised sliders on your Landy? Just wondered how they look.

Ta

n4th4n · Jan 20, 2015

Got mine back today......got in touch with a local metal yard and they threw my Sliders in with a huge order......gave the guy £20 and a bottle of decent red! Well chuffed.

Just need to re-tap the holes in the brackets and treat myself to new bolts.

aaronmorris · Jan 20, 2015

Very nice n4th4n.

Bennehboy · Jan 20, 2015

well jel

LNH · Jan 20, 2015

wow that looks great!

nice to know a place so close that can galv a chassis as well!

looking at swapping my chassis soon maybe be worth getting a new steel chassis then having in galved and save some ££££££££ on the price of a new galv one???

aaronmorris · Jan 20, 2015

LNH said:
wow that looks great!

nice to know a place so close that can galv a chassis as well!

looking at swapping my chassis soon maybe be worth getting a new steel chassis then having in galved and save some ££££££££ on the price of a new galv one???

Provided you can find one you may save a little money.
But more faffing about. Suppose it depends what is more important to you. Time or money.
For me I'd rather spend less money and more time on something.
But then off the shelf is handy and is the way I went myself.

XRIZLAX · Jan 20, 2015

i got in touch with richards chassis with the intension of getting an ungalved chassis from them hoping to get a couple of hundred quid knocked off, but all he would drop the price was 85 quid.
does anybody advertise they do ungalved chassis, there used to be a couple of firms years ago which offered both options with a fair difference in price.
it would be nice if i could get a bare steel one 2-3 hundred quid cheaper.

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