Which kit do they sell?...a lift kit for a P38 on air?...or a conversion to coil kit for a P38?...and a lift kit for a vehicle originally designed with coil suspension?...there is a difference and yes you can cobble the two together but!!!....
P38A Should you lift a Range Rover? Air/Coil?
- Thread starter 300bhp/ton
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Which kit do they sell?...a lift kit for a P38 on air?...or a conversion to coil kit for a P38?...and a lift kit for a vehicle originally designed with coil suspension?...there is a difference and yes you can cobble the two together but!!!....
frog hopper
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@300bhp/ton interesting write up thanks, the problems with air and the supporting electronics is one of the reasons I own a RRC instead of a P38. Love the look and interior of the P38 but no way would I be able to fix it, just too stupid.
In fact just a casual look at the Range Rover forum has probably 25% of questions relating to air problems, so I can understand anyone wanting a RR but without air.
Like you I have a speedo (on my 90) that now reads correctly, that is after putting in a disco tranny box, and slightly oversize rubber, just a case of changing the speedo drive gear. I often find I am driving at the legal limit on motorways and passing people who no doubt think I am over speeding.
In fact just a casual look at the Range Rover forum has probably 25% of questions relating to air problems, so I can understand anyone wanting a RR but without air.
Like you I have a speedo (on my 90) that now reads correctly, that is after putting in a disco tranny box, and slightly oversize rubber, just a case of changing the speedo drive gear. I often find I am driving at the legal limit on motorways and passing people who no doubt think I am over speeding.
Henry_b
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The P38's EAS system is quite simple, once you read up and learn it is a piece of pish to fix.. 
The rrc vs p38 argument can be summed up in...
RRC Terminal rot or P38 electrical gremlins
the EAS ride and handling is far superior to any coil sprung RR or LR 'tis why the last RRC utilised it
The rrc vs p38 argument can be summed up in...
RRC Terminal rot or P38 electrical gremlins
the EAS ride and handling is far superior to any coil sprung RR or LR 'tis why the last RRC utilised it
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The P38's EAS system is quite simple, once you read up and learn it is a piece of pish to fix..
The rrc vs p38 argument can be summed up in...
RRC Terminal rot or P38 electrical gremlins
the EAS ride and handling is far superior to any coil sprung RR or LR 'tis why the last RRC utilised it
I agree EAS is simple to repair and maintain. I worked on the RRC when it first came out, did lots of warranty work on mostly transfer boxes that fell apart at will. Nice motor to drive around, but a bloody nightmare at speed on a twisty road. The P38 by comparison to the early classics at least is on a different planet as regards handling and ride quality. And is pretty simple to work on if you know your onions.
Datatek
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As the others have said, the EAS is easy to fix. Almost all the problems come down to lack of maintenance, in particular the airsprings which have a design life of 7/8 years 80K miles, cheap and easy to replace. After overhaul mine has been pretty reliable for 10 years, ,just a driver pack and a dryer causing hiccups but never leaving me on the bump stops.
300bhp/ton
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I assume you are simply too lazy to look at their site or use Google? They offer a coil conversion kit in about 4 different flavours. It is not labelled or sold as 'off road' only. It is intended to replace the air suspension for a road going vehicle.
Britpart and many others also sell conversion kits in the same manner.
300bhp/ton
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I appreciate the thanks. But I think you are being incredibly naive about modified cars and insurance. Firstly, this is not heavily modified, there are far more heavily modified vehicles legally used and insured on the roads. So I have no idea why you find this unusual.
Secondly, most insurers are happy with modifications. At least a great deal many more than you are suggesting.
As for cost, I insure the p38 for under £200 a year. Fully comp, all mods listed and even an agreed value. It was no bother finding an insurer. I could have used one of a great number of options. As it happens I'm using one of the site sponsors. BTW - I own and insure vastly more modified vehicles than my p38. They too are cheap to insure.
300bhp/ton
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Yes. And this is all good and that.
And I would not argue this.But you haven't been listening.
It would not do this. If you put it in high mode and lets say for arguments sake I put blocks in. The values for the height sensors would have to go below the permitted values to allow the vehicle to sit level. My hunch is it needed new height sensors. But I do not know this for sure. But for each height setting there is a min/max value you have on each sensor. When you are on the lowest value permitted and it is still 3" too high, you can't realistically lower it any further....
Height sensors are between £45-70/each. So a set of four is not cheap.
Add in a set of new air bags too and you have massively exceeded the cost of a coil conversion kit
AND don't forget the initial problem I had, was that it ruptured the airline to the tank. Something nobody has been able to even suggest a cause of. And it wasn't a one off, as it did it again with new piping and different routing. The last straw was while sitting in it programming the levels, it then threw a wobbly with something on the dash about an ECU fault and the RWS software presented me with this:
However before this happened. If you adjusted the suspension through the software to set a height and store it. When you set the vehicle to that mode, it would not move to the saved positions, even though it would confirm they were saved.
Now it may well have been easy to fix. But it was beyond me. And I didn't have £100's to spend at a garage getting it diagnosed.
If you have any genuine insights to causes and solutions to these specific problems. Then I would honestly be interested. But it wasn't a simple case of a leaky valve block, non functioning compressor or worn air springs causing any of these problems.
Attachments
300bhp/ton
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Cabled was from Datatek and port is not corroded. Not even remotely, because I use it extensively and with my Nanocom.I've got £30 worth of useless wires, it wasn't until Datatek pointed me in the right direction that I got the right cable..
It could be the cable, or sometimes corrosion in the OBD port.
Sometimes the computer anorl.
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Yes. And this is all good and that.
But you haven't been listening.
It would not do this. If you put it in high mode and lets say for arguments sake I put blocks in. The values for the height sensors would have to go below the permitted values to allow the vehicle to sit level. My hunch is it needed new height sensors. But I do not know this for sure. But for each height setting there is a min/max value you have on each sensor. When you are on the lowest value permitted and it is still 3" too high, you can't realistically lower it any further....
Height sensors are between £45-70/each. So a set of four is not cheap.
Add in a set of new air bags too and you have massively exceeded the cost of a coil conversion kit
AND don't forget the initial problem I had, was that it ruptured the airline to the tank. Something nobody has been able to even suggest a cause of. And it wasn't a one off, as it did it again with new piping and different routing. The last straw was while sitting in it programming the levels, it then threw a wobbly with something on the dash about an ECU fault and the RWS software presented me with this:
However before this happened. If you adjusted the suspension through the software to set a height and store it. When you set the vehicle to that mode, it would not move to the saved positions, even though it would confirm they were saved.
Now it may well have been easy to fix. But it was beyond me. And I didn't have £100's to spend at a garage getting it diagnosed.
If you have any genuine insights to causes and solutions to these specific problems. Then I would honestly be interested. But it wasn't a simple case of a leaky valve block, non functioning compressor or worn air springs causing any of these problems.
That readout shows there is no communication EASunlock to vehicle. All faults are spurious.
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So can we say basically you didn't know what you were doing so you converted to coils.
I think you missed my point...
RangeRoller dt
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First thing I did was look through my vehicle history of receipts from new. Vast majority of money spent in its initial 19yr LR sevice history was EAS, and it was still shot.
That’s not a lack of maintenance
That’s not a lack of maintenance
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It is if the person doing the maintenance did not have a clue what he was doing. Would a dealer fitter rebuild a compressor or fit a new one? Would a dealer fitter rebuild the valve block or fit a new one. New airbags about £240.00 if they last ten years that's £24.00 a year for bags. Say £50.00 for compressor kit and valve block kit. And they last ten years that's £5.00 a year. So we are up to £29.00 a year and a bit of labour do it yourself no cost and you learn something. I would say that is not a reason to ruin a good car by fitting coils would you?
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RangeRoller dt
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Just chuck new bits and hope by looks of it, and charge for the diagnosis
Another way to look at it is
Lack of maintenance - just the last one
It’s true other half of my decision was based on me knowing I didn’t understand EAS, dint know none of you either.
Another way to look at it is
Lack of maintenance - just the last one
It’s true other half of my decision was based on me knowing I didn’t understand EAS, dint know none of you either.
300bhp/ton
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Exactly, only it was working but 10 secs prior and had done on multiple occasions before. It wouldn't reconnect and I could not find a way to reset it. I was also doing this all on my own, so yes there is a limitation on how much I know and can do. If you are offering to come and help assist in fixing it, I will take you up on it!!!
300bhp/ton
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Well clearly. So what was it then?
300bhp/ton
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If you like. It's a bit of unfair and unhelpful stance to take. However I think if that is the case, it demonstrates it is not that simple or easy to fix in all circumstances. And while I'm not claiming to be an expert or Einstein. I don't think I'm a complete luddite either. I'm a Software Tester/Engineer by profession (past 16 years). Used to build and overhaul light aircraft engines/props, grew up on a farm. And a car/4x4/Land Rover enthusiast. Have done lots of engine swaps, designed the suspension on my 88 leafer and completely rebuilt it, built a coiler 88 and modified plenty of other vehicles.So can we say basically you didn't know what you were doing so you converted to coils.
Hobbies include building RC planes & cars and amateur electronics such as building LED torches.
i.e. I'm not a complete numpty doing mechanical or electrical things on cars.
And as said above. I still own the vehicle. If you are willing to come and show me how quick, cheap and easy it is to fix. Then I am 100% willing and receptive to it.
300bhp/ton
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Trouble is, when you buy a vehicle, you can't back date the maintenance costs. You have to pay for them there and then. I know manmaths can work wonders to justify buying something. But the hard reality is, if you need to spend £500+ on spares. There is no way you retrospectfully charge it back to previous years or owners.
RangeRoller dt
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When I joined here I recognised you from RC. Knowing me it means you have a ‘lunchbox’ as always been mad for monster trucks (generational thing)
