SERIES 3 WONT START , FULL LIST OF WHAT IVE TRIED!

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
Im with the RAC , however they seem to have a knack of signing forms saying "non starter " and going home , I'll give mechanic until end of day and I'll call them tomorrow , I don't think it's seized as it turns freely with starter handle with no problems but won't start , I'm assuming this is a sign that it's not seized
 
Last edited:
Neil

From what your saying it sounds like there is a blockage in the carb. If you've been turning the engine over but the spark plugs are dry when you remove them then it doesn't look like the carb is jetting fuel into the cylinders which would suggest a blockage somewhere in the carb.

I'd suggest you take the carb apart to make sure it's not blocked.
 
Agree with the above BUT it ought to fire at least when petrol poured direct down the carb............................ it has been suggested that there is no compression but even a totally knackered engine ought to fire. Try all plugs out, generous squirt of WD40 down each bore - spin it over briefly, then a couple of plugs back in and see if it'll start or at least fire [with petrol poured directly down carb] The WD40 will help compression [briefly] good luck
 
We seem to be going round in circles.

Has the OP actually tried any of the things suggested re: carb. I am sure that was mentioned a few posts ago
 
Series 3 major problems after oil top up
Is where it all started for Neil
It was inconclusive on that thread even after many had contributed their knowledge and experience
I just get the feeling that just maybe this thread is going the same way?
If we could all only get our hands on the Landy it I'm sure could be fixed!
You have US all willing it to go and you also have some of our pity
Somehow I don't think thats going to be enough:(
 
Ok guys , I have literally tried everything suggested by yourselves, I'm not taking this lightly I do appreciate your help , I have found someone who has owned 5 land rovers and he does all his own work , he is coming round in the morning so here's hoping , I know the ongoing threads are never ending but I am taking it all in and trying all your suggestions
 
Edlandy , its not working!. I'm taking it to the garage on Tuesday , they can sort it , I'm fed up of it now it's taken so much of my time over Christmas and new year , lucky that I have an understanding family , I'll update you all when it's fixed , waldamar , just to confirm your suspicions , yes it infuriating , if I can't fix it I can understand because I'm a "have a goer " , however if 2 mechanics one of them being a Land Rover series mechanic can't sort it then I don't feel so useless .
 
how olds your petrol?

Also is it possible theres an air leak in the fuel system? My diesel had an air leak at the filter a while back and wouldn't start. Not sure how susceptible the petrol is to air in fuel though whether it would run or not
 
neilcmusic said:
Edlandy , its not working!. I'm taking it to the garage on Tuesday , they can sort it , I'm fed up of it now it's taken so much of my time over Christmas and new year , lucky that I have an understanding family , I'll update you all when it's fixed , waldamar , just to confirm your suspicions , yes it infuriating , if I can't fix it I can understand because I'm a "have a goer " , however if 2 mechanics one of them being a Land Rover series mechanic can't sort it then I don't feel so useless .
Click to expand...

Hi neilcmusic, If it is any consolation I managed to get my landy (1981 series 3) running and out my garage after 6 years of dis-use using this thread for pointers. I had all the non-starting symptoms, wouldn't turn over, no fuel at carb and no spark. So thanks to all the posters in the thread!

*** I just wrote the blurb below and then remembered something about starting another old landy we had. The ignition switch was broken so to start you had to:
  1. key in the ignition at position 2, choke on, pump the throttle
  2. turn the key to start (position 3), let the engine turn over for a 5 seconds (its got to spin FAST and the whole time you have the key held in position 3)
  3. release the key so that it moves back to position 2. The engine should fire if you are lucky
  4. repeat all steps until you get her started.
The ignition switch was faulty causing only the starter to be engaged in position 3 and not the distributor, coil etc. you have to get the engine spinning long enough so that it carries on spinning for that split second when the ignition switch is back in position 2.

Here's my fix for my series 3:
  • First off, check the engine Oil level, water level, fuel level (I had to top up the tank with new petrol). If there was a little bit of oil above the high mark I'm not going to be too concerned as the engine has sat for years so all the oil is in the sump. If I had way to much oil I'd drain it and investigate (my old tractor used to surprise me by filling the sump with either rain water or cooling water)
  • I also turned the engine over by hand to check it wasn't seized.
  • Give the battery a good charge
  • While its charging I took off all battery connections/earth wires etc and cleaned the contacts on them. I followed the electrical path from the battery + to the starter and then back to the battery - making sure there is a path and all contact points are clean metal to metal joints.
  • With the battery refitted I then tried turning the engine over. It needs to spin fast and all the time you have the key in the start position, not "whuuuf.......whuuuuuuuuuuuuffff..........whuuuuuuuuuuufffff". If its not spinning fast enough then I try other batteries, jump leads etc. If it that doesn't help I'd have the starter off for a look at it. I've found the motors full of corrosion before.
  • My engine turned over nicely so I went on to the carb, I found there was no fuel at the carb or in the fuel lines. I used an in-line rubber fuel pump to manually pump fuel to the engine, I found that the Fuel filter seal had perished and cause all the fuel to run back the the tank so I sorted this.
  • I now have fuel at my carb but it is really out of tune and fuel only comes out of 1 jet so I keep cranking the engine over to get more fuel to the carb. Eventually get equal fuel spray down both barrels of the carb.
  • Now on to the spark, I checked with a multi meter that I have 12V at the coil and under the distributor cap. All was ok. I turned the engine over with the distributor cap off and watched the contact points, I got intermittent small sparks and the occasional big spark. I check the points gap, its factory spec. I increased the points gap then reset to factory and got a constant big spark. I'm not sure what I managed to do there maybe there was some moisture or dirt on the contacts that I cleaned off with my feeler gauge.
  • I then had no. 1 spark plug out and turned the engine over, I got a spark!
  • I boxed it all up and she fired up!!
 
neilcmusic said:
Edlandy , its not working!. I'm taking it to the garage on Tuesday , they can sort it , I'm fed up of it now it's taken so much of my time over Christmas and new year , lucky that I have an understanding family , I'll update you all when it's fixed , waldamar , just to confirm your suspicions , yes it infuriating , if I can't fix it I can understand because I'm a "have a goer " , however if 2 mechanics one of them being a Land Rover series mechanic can't sort it then I don't feel so useless .
Click to expand...
Well done for your persistence - is mysterious though, get the garage to 1st check compression, if it is totally shagged no point throwing more money in - TBH the amount of effort/time it's taken you could've chucked in a different engine! Good luck
 
This reminds me slightly of a hair pulling episode I had in the early 1980s.
I decidered, because it was cold, to remove the dizzy from my 1969 Cortina to change the points and do it in the warm kitchen of my home.
Car was on a communal carpark out of view of the house.
10 mins later I had done the job and refitted the dizzy but it wouldn't start.
I'd marked the rotor arm position, HT leads etc and everything was correct.
Went dark, battery flat from cranking.
This was a Sunday and I was on 6 -2 shift.
Had an hr Max by the time I got back home from work before it went dark.
Every day I messed with it until it went dark or the battery went flat.
Come Saturday and a full day ahead I decided to start from basics and rechecked the timing which couldn't possibly be wrong but I was desperate by now!
It was miles out!!
Started instantly when retimed.
Baffled me for ages until a neighbour told me weeks later how he caught his 3 yr old grandson winding it over whilst I was in the kitchen.....
Teach me to leave the key in the ignition!
 
Tomorrows the big day so ill wait to hear from the garage , am really hoping its something simple but knowing my luck it wont be! , ive left it with him and asked him to MOT it if he can get it running (had to tow it there).
fingers crossed.
 
Just read this throught... Definately want to know the answer!

Edit: just for my 2p... We had a RRC V8 which wouldn't start on the key but would bump start. Battery and earths fine - starter motor worn out. Turned over but 'whuummp...whuummp....whuummp'. New starter had it spinning like a good'un with instant engine firing.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

pabloako
Length of accelerator push/control rod (Series 2)
Replies
4
Views
320
pabloako
pabloako
A
No spark ?
Replies
5
Views
456
mystery
mystery
mjr92
Horn and flash problem
Replies
12
Views
364
mjr92
mjr92
Kingshill-Rover
Series 3 LWB in Buckinghamshire - Front Springs
Replies
11
Views
933
Rangieman123
Rangieman123
Tim_AM
S3 bogging on full throttle
Replies
8
Views
741
tottot
tottot
Back
Top