Series 3 109 Station Wagon, full ground up resto and 88 redo careless resto driving project

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.
We'll work has been getting in the way too much the last few weeks.
Working as a technician in a school is quite challenging with Covid.
But I've ordered a needle de-scaling air powered tool off eBay View attachment 218180The idea is to clean most of the rust and paint off with this tool first, the use the small sandblaster which is good on very small areas, oh and great at laying sand down on my lockblock drive too.
Blasting sand isn't cheap, but the child's play sand is, it's just a bit too damp and I now have it in a big tub drying slowlyView attachment 218186 Just like newView attachment 218187 But quite slow
I'd be really interested to hear what you think of the needle de-scaling air tool when you get to try it. I've also found that cheap brick acid is very good at soaking/dissolving off rust (if you can get the component into a tank) - but don't do this inside, or anything steel near it will start to corrode!
 
Hi Rob,
The needle descaler is a great bit of kit. Any loose flaky layered or built up rust just falls away with no fuss and not to much airborne dust. It will not leave a clean shiny surface but I would think one good enough to rust convert and paint.
I finished making a sand blaster today, and it works very nicely. I bought children's play sand - 10 bags cheap from Tesco weeks ago, and have been finding ways to dry it for using since. Today I fitted a barrel tip with brass pipe and flexible hose to a cheap aluminium ceramic tipped gun. A full face mask or respirator bad face shield plus head and body coverings is needed. But it works great and leaves a lovely clean dull printable surface.
I plan to clean the worst of the gearbox and transfer cases then polish them up a little plus all the bits such as airbox and metal retaining casings for fresh paint so they will be like new.
The needle de-scaling air tool may be a bit strong for very thin steel, but ideal for the likes of cleaning up the axles
16028807664634006303198465705982.jpg
16028812659555522151592092462741.jpg

I sweep the sand up and sieve it back into the blue barrel of which I have two with sealable lids. That's a bit Scottish I know, the rest sits in the cracks between my lockblock drive
 
Time to get the gearbox and transfer box out
16041550290661230339932493512977.jpg

Need to remove the front and rear drive shafts first which I will mark on the assumption they are balanced
16041561108783142704251029779100.jpg
Also I hope I remember how it all was
16041561996602984699211991908932.jpg
16041562745963809229913356036062.jpg
16041563357052652418246288569476.jpg

Right,
Time to get those shafts out
 

Attachments

  • 16041563678053682880586816272569.jpg
    16041563678053682880586816272569.jpg
    418 KB · Views: 119
My 3HP belt driven compressor is rated for 14CFM, ( cubic foot per min). But the sand blaster does not need this much. So probably about 8 or 9 CFM actual in use. The copper pipe goes to the bottom of the barrel and is connected to the £14 gun via a flexible hose. The sand is dry and sieved, and is play sand which took forever to dry. But the sand is swept up and sieved back into the barrel and re-used, and I always wear a full face mask and respirator for the dust which is very dangerous to breathe.
I don't know how I made all those sand castles when young without getting silicosis.
Once you've figured how to not get blasted yourself it's a great piece of kit and a pleasure to use
 
So much crud on the box, been cleaning with Gunk gun
16060563103935868798643022100161.jpg

The jet wash, scrubbing brushes, other type of Gunk Ultra in a spray
1606056616867889502137183154171.jpg
Which is almost as good as the Gunk in a tin.
I think this one is kinder to plastics in the engine bay.
As opposed to this one
16060577064754756224791947608076.jpg

Which has more powerful thinners in.
So following on with some sandblasting here is where we're at.
16060578861387385439170680612055.jpg
16060579481862452772564898753382.jpg

Draining oils and going to split into its parts to take into my shed for a rebuild.
 
So the strip down begins. Like a new journey of discovery
16062479151331074128397268027154.jpg
so far this fell out of the main gearbox
16062479151331074128397268027154.jpg

Which may explain why The car stopped getting used 17 years ago.
 

Attachments

  • 16062479910617845157574892714756.jpg
    16062479910617845157574892714756.jpg
    348.3 KB · Views: 123
1606248182180118489211097461441.jpg
could this small piece of bronze be a synchromesh gear ??
Guess we'll just have to wait till it's on the bench and separate.
 
There had to be a reason they stopped driving her. So this may be it.
I believe I can replace all the parts, so just hope it's not a total tragedy inside. . ·´¯`(>▂<)´¯`·.
 
For one moment I thought that was a cot to cradle your precious gearbox in but it’s a dog chair :)
I’d love to have a go at a gearbox but I doubt my nerves could take it. :(
 
Before I can rebuild it, I've had to re fit the 30+ year old transaxle I just recently finished rebuilding. A Peerless 801 which had a destroyed crown gear (ʘ言ʘ╬)
Getting parts for a box which has not been made for nearly 40 years years proved a challenge
16066616307892594584286541294276.jpg
16066616896643674652725460234156.jpg
Now the shed's free for the Landy box, and I can get my car in the garage again ♪┌|∵|┘♪
 
I know what you mean Bobsticle,
But armed with the Haynes Manual and countless you tube vids also all the amazing info on the web, why not.
A replacement box seems to be over a grand, yet all the bearings and syncro parts are just a few hundred and I just don't trust other garages enough. They seem to be so slap dash.
If you do it yourself you know what kind of a job is done; it's just not about the money or the time. It's about the pleasure of having made something broken and worth saving for us all - like new again, so it can go on doing the best of British for another forty years or more. Also the personal achievement of having restored another big component of the puzzle.
I hope you do Bobsticle, because it's a worthy challenge to make a good job.
 
I know what you mean Bobsticle,
But armed with the Haynes Manual and countless you tube vids also all the amazing info on the web, why not.
A replacement box seems to be over a grand, yet all the bearings and syncro parts are just a few hundred and I just don't trust other garages enough. They seem to be so slap dash.
If you do it yourself you know what kind of a job is done; it's just not about the money or the time. It's about the pleasure of having made something broken and worth saving for us all - like new again, so it can go on doing the best of British for another forty years or more. Also the personal achievement of having restored another big component of the puzzle.
I hope you do Bobsticle, because it's a worthy challenge to make a good job.
Maybe one day when all my other projects are done. ;)
 
I know what you mean Bobsticle,
But armed with the Haynes Manual and countless you tube vids also all the amazing info on the web, why not.
A replacement box seems to be over a grand, yet all the bearings and syncro parts are just a few hundred and I just don't trust other garages enough. They seem to be so slap dash.
If you do it yourself you know what kind of a job is done; it's just not about the money or the time. It's about the pleasure of having made something broken and worth saving for us all - like new again, so it can go on doing the best of British for another forty years or more. Also the personal achievement of having restored another big component of the puzzle.
I hope you do Bobsticle, because it's a worthy challenge to make a good job.
Have you got a genuine workshop manual. Haynes can be a bit lacking. Genuine ones are available to download free. I can't remember the website address but I bet someone on here will know it. Much more detailed.
 
Back
Top