I have bought a station wagon

dag019 · Sep 23, 2024

Some more research and unsurprisingly some more questions! This time I am looking at how the mid crossmember fits (chassis one). I will need to check how much space I have on my 110 as I did not realise that is goes under the fuel and brake lines, and in my case the rear loom which also runs along the top of the chassis! Pic form google:

Follow up question after watching a youtube video (LINK) of it being swapped I assume the bracket I can see here tit is bolt through (not the chassis bracket) is the enclosed box section part on the underside of the crossmember:

This looks like a potential rust trap, other than filling it full of chassis wax (my plan anyway) is there anything else that can be done to prevent it looking like the video pic in several year time?

dag019 · Sep 30, 2024

Posted on its own thread here LINK but also posted in this thread to keep everything together for this rebuild

LINK: EXTENDED 2ND ROW FOOTWELL TO REAR FLOOR UPSTAND, FRONT OF REAR TUB – LR DEFENDER 110 & SERIES 2/3 109″ (4 OR 5 DOOR).

Linked above is the part. Has anyone fitted fitted one of these before?

I am struggling to get everything to line up, all be it was the end of the day and it was getting dark when I tried. I am trying to put it over the rear floor as it cannot go under due to the top hat sections and do not want to cut the floor off because then I would lose the top hat supports. Is this how it is intended to be fitted or is the intention that you have no floor left and it has been cut off?

Below are some pictures, please excuse the green glow, it was very wet so was working under the cover rather than removing it. I am not too worried about the distance from the mid crossmember brackets as I know this is bent and the chassis brackets it is welded to are also bent. It is more trying to get the two angle extensions to line up on the sloped wheel box sections. I can get one side lined up but there is then a gap on the other side and I cannot close the gap because it is already sitting flush against the edge of the floor. Am I doing something wrong or do I need to trim a couple of mm off the front edge of the floor to get it all to fit?

mid crossmember bracket gap, not the same on both sides, but crossmember is bent:

lined up flush and correct on passenger side but has a gap on the drivers side:

front edge of the rear floor still original and untouched currently also still has the top hat sections

dag019 · Oct 4, 2024

Some more progress this afternoon although some of it is only temporary. Fitted the sill/B/C-pillar (temporarily) so that I could get the rear floor upstand lined up. This will need to be removed to fit the end caps to the floor as they need the C-pillar mounting holes drilled into them once in place.

This then allowed me to fit the up stand using the c-pillar mounting bracket to line it up. Once in place on top of the existing floor I then riveted the front edge in place to keep its position.

I cannot rivet the back edge into place as I plan on replacing the underfloor crossmember which rivets into place along the back edge of the floor. Once in place with the c-pillars the position evened up compared to my previous worries. Although there is a gap (black on black picture does not show it the best) of 5mm or so I think once the back edge is riveted in place I will be able to bend and rivet the gap closed and most importantly the gap is equal on both sides.

dag019 · Oct 16, 2024

Little more of an update as I have been fighting the weather.
Managed to complete fitting the sills with the end caps for the floor panel now now fitted allowing the side panels of the tub to be rivetted into place. Now I really am fighting the weather as need another coat of primer and tow coats of enamel on the tub now so
Need it to stop raining for a couple Of days!

In the meantime I will refit the toe plate and the floor panel. Once painted I will remove the tub to fit the underside supports which have all rusted away.

I also managed to “fix” the bulkhead well enough to attach the top hinge so I can now open the drivers door. Still need to drill holes for the windscreen hinge which will add extra support. But this is good enough for now. I do not think the bulkhead is salvageable so this is very much a temporary fix riveted over the top to allow the door to work as a door!

dag019 · Oct 21, 2024

I managed to do some painting over the weekend and final coat today as it decided to stop raining. The rear tub is now fully painted outside in the correct and best land rover colour of Masia red.

I also managed to fit the toe plate having painted and soundproofed it. I am not particularly happy with the sound proofing as it was advertised a colour coded for interior visible application (they have about 10 colours available) but they then spoil it by plastering their company logo over it meaning it is not a plain colour to match the interior!

I have also placed the floor panel in to to make sure everything aligns which I am happy to report, it does!. I now just need to drill the holes in the new seat upstand before it can be bolted down properly. I plan on using the same flange head bolts I currently have on the 110 front floor panels rather than the horrible rusty screws into spring plates that are the factory fit.

Next task is to clean-up and paint the seat mounting brackets so they can be refitted, and remove the horrible rusty screws securing the front floor panels and tunnel. Once this is complete the whole rear body can be lifted off to replace the underside supports.

dag019 said:
Finally managed to fit the cappings today. Feels like a huge step forward as it was one of the four things on the original to do list (cappings, sill/bpillar, paint, doors - with rear floor added as a fifth during work). Although the others are all in progress to get one finished is a good feeling.

Although as above there are still little things to do and I know the list is a long way from finished in terms of my original list of big ticket items: ~~cappings~~, ~~Sills/B/C-pillar~~, ~~floor (added)~~, ~~paint~~, ~~lights,~~ doors, Most are now checked off.
The door bottoms are awaiting seam sealing but have been t-washed, and I am hoping to get them painted this week ready for fitting up with locks and door tops. and then all that is left is to remove it and carful plan the swap over!

tottot · Oct 21, 2024

Looking good there, got the roof to fit as well. According to a friend who has had two station wagons doing/getting right the B and C pillars is the piggy most job on a Landy.

dag019 · Oct 22, 2024

tottot said:
Looking good there, got the roof to fit as well. According to a friend who has had two station wagons doing/getting right the B and C pillars is the piggy most job on a Landy.

I am going to use my current roof as it doesn’t have the alpine windows or the sunroof. It still leaks, but from what I understand should be much less than the station wagon roof! (A replacement roof for this with no sunroof is on the shopping list)

I was thinking about this, I am not sure I can get the B/C pillars right. As they are a single welded piece from yrm so there is nothing to adjust. I know how to space the bulkhead to gap the front doors. But was trying to work out if there was anything I would need to do for the second row and was coming to the conclusion there wasn’t?

tottot · Oct 22, 2024

He was on the same job with YRM parts, one conclusion he came to was you do need those second row doors to have a chance of getting things right and while the YRM items are one piece there is some give at the free ends.

dag019 · Oct 26, 2024

tottot said:
He was on the same job with YRM parts, one conclusion he came to was you do need those second row doors to have a chance of getting things right and while the YRM items are one piece there is some give at the free ends.

I have the doors, they are currently in the garage being painted. The whole rear body is about to come off as it is not being fitted to this vehicle so I assume I can space and fettle accordingly once fitted to my 110 using the doors to set the spacing? You say there is some give, what are you adjusting to try and space properly? the bulkhead end is about adding washers etc, what is the equivalent for the second row doors?

dag019 · Oct 26, 2024

Made a little more progress with the rear floor now bolted in and the front seatbelts in position. And I have begun removing the front floor panels to allow the body to be removed but have once again come up against bolts that are so rusty they no longer resemble bolts!

dag019 · Oct 26, 2024

This progress has lead me to a couple mor questions. firstly are B pillars any use to anyone/worth anything or as they are welded do they come as single piece with the sill. Although the rest of it the sills had long since turned to oxide dust the b pillars are in good condition and if no use/worthless will be destined for the scrap man, but would rather they weent to someone else if actually useful.

Secondly the accelerator pedal has and addition to it that I cannot work out whet it would be for or what benefit it bring. Does anyone have any ideas?

dag019 · Oct 26, 2024

Having partially fitted the front seatbelts I am not beginning to look more closely at their mounting. This is on a stand alone thread but am asking and linking to here to keep everything together LINK.
I have all of the brackets now, and have front belts, I am hoping to find some rears at Malvern tomorrow, if not I will buy some new ones. I have some of the bolts from dismantling the old body but some of them are either very rusted or were missing as it only came with a single static belt in the rear. Looking at my parts manual the fitting kit for seatbelts is STC1180 however this kit does not look to be the same as the spacers I already have. Below is a pic from google for the kit STC1180. However I the spacers removed when disassembling the rear body were stepped spacer pictured second (generic non land rover). The belt buckle sits on the spacer step allowing it to still rotate. Can anyone confirm, is that what the shoulder on the bolts do, allowing for the same thing but with a special bolt rather than a normal bolt?

tottot · Oct 29, 2024

You are correct in your assumption that the bolt shoulder is for belt to swivel on.
As for the thing in the footwell.

Does it activate throttle if clutch pressed? Although why escapes me.
Clutch looks butchered as well.

dag019 · Oct 29, 2024

tottot said:
You are correct in your assumption that the bolt shoulder is for belt to swivel on.
As for the thing in the footwell. Does it activate throttle if clutch pressed? Although why escapes me.
Clutch looks butchered as well.

The clutch is butchered. But I am planning on swapping it for the later model flat bar style pedal with the clock spring as I have one left over from my previous rebuild and it needs new clutch hydraulics anyway.
I will see if it a tivates when pressing the clutch. I’m not planning on keeping it but was more curious what benefit it would be. Can’t see the purpose really.

tottot · Oct 29, 2024

Is it far enough left that a foot could work throttle from there?
Perhaps both throttle and clutch pedals were linked to some form of home made hand controls at one time for someone with just one leg that worked the brake?

dag019 · Oct 29, 2024

tottot said:
Is it far enough left that a foot could work throttle from there?
Perhaps both throttle and clutch pedals were linked to some form of home made hand controls at one time for someone with just one leg that worked the brake?

I did wonder that. But it looks very crude. I will check next time I am with the vehicle they interact or are separate pedals.

dag019 · Nov 2, 2024

A little more progress today before being summoned home for a baby full of cold who was refusing to nap! Didn’t get quite as much done as I had hoped but did make some progress

Unbolted the rear crossmember bolts and the remains of the very rusty floor bolts cut out along with the seat box bolts. So the seat box is now free but still in place and there is nothing holding the rear body to anything else anymore (I hope).

In a similar fashion I dropped the front headlining and unbolted the roof from the windscreen so there is now holding the roof on. Just need to cut some wooden battoning to act as bracing and the roof and rear body should be able to be lifted off.

I’m dropping the headlining I discovered a wasp nest although thankfully not an active one. So not as bad as it could have been!

I then proceeded to fit a few things to get them out of the garage and make space. The rear chequer was refitted having been painted with black machine enamel.

And because it take up lots of space I fitted the bullbars as well. Eventual plan will be to shot blast and hot dip. But a good coat or red oxide will protect for now. I know it is a long way from driving, but as I find accessories at the right price I am buying and fitting ready for when it does go back to the road.

dag019 · Nov 3, 2024

I am hoping to remove the roof today and then get the tub fully unbolted ready to be lifted off end of this week. Can I just check the list below of things to unbolt to allow the tub to be removed if complete and I have not missed anything:

Rear wiring loom
Fuel filler (had forgotten that)
rear crossmember bolts
mid (station wagon) crossmember bolts
out rigger bolts (behind the front seat box)
sill bolts at bulkhead feet

Roof will be off
seatbox is fully unbolted but still in place

Have I missed anything? I am dragging some friends out to help me but ideal want everything ready so they just need to arrive and lift it off rather than wait for more seized bolts to be ground off etc.

tottot · Nov 3, 2024

What about the stays in front of rear wheels from sill to tub?
Ah but looking at pic you have rock sliders so may have already gone.

dag019 · Nov 3, 2024

tottot said:
What about the stays in front of rear wheels from sill to tub?
Ah but looking at pic you have rock sliders so may have already gone.

They have already gone. As have the mud flap brackets (disconnected when removed the chequer for painting).

I had forgotten the rear seatbelt mounts however which I have just removed revealing more gaping holes in the floor beneath! I think with these I will just put an Ali patch over the top as the whole thing is going to get covered in a piece of stable matting.

Having unbolted the seatbelt bracket though it does appear that the rear tub can be lifted so I am hopeful I have got everything.

Also removed the roof and braced with some timber to prevent the b pillars from twisting. So think I am ready to remove the tub this week it some volentold friends help.

I have bought a station wagon

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