Series 3 109 Six Pot Rebuild Thread

[6pot]

It's looking great.

 

[v8250]

@BruceB , that's great progress + these outdoor tents are eminently useful when rebuilding old cars/tratters. I refurb'd and keep the 90 in a green tent...for the floor I laid 3x 1200dpm and marine ply sheets over the top. The inside of the tent is absolutely bone dry with near zero humidity during winter months [must have air vents open] + it's very comfortable to work from.

 

[BikerB]

Went out tonight for an hours to see if I could bolt on a few small bits, no luck.
Everything I had that I could have easily bolted on was either slightly wrong, didn't fit as it should or had one vital part missing.
Some of I knew, the petrol tank has two bolts missing as they were out of stock on the original order but other things like the exhaust mounts needing additional parts not in the manual were a bit annoying.
Need to go around it now and gather up an order of all the bits I need or am missing to start building, all I got done tonight was two exhaust mounts, the gearbox crossmember and the x member tie bar.
Its not as bad as it sounds though as I can now start blasting and painting lots of bits and bolt them straight on when dry, I did not have space to store too much so haven't done much till now on refurbishment of bits.

 

[Wagon Loon]

The paint's looking great Bruce,
I hadn't realised the six pot was a semi flathead/side valve engine. Will you get hardened valve seats installed so it can run on unleaded fuel ?
Your chassis really was in a bad way, makes mine look positively youthful lol. Starting with a new better protected galvanised one must be worth it, and what a joy to be able to move forward now.
That pop up garage has me interested in doing the same, I have the perfect space for one and it looks like there is lots of room to work, also the light coming through looks good to work by.

 

[BikerB]

Starting with a galv chassis has its issues, fettling is needed. Just came across an unexpected issue that I am not sure is the tank or the chassis at the moment. I dropped the tank on and the bolts don't line up, bit puzzled at the mo and may need to phone craddocks where the tank came from and if it isn't the tank then Richards.
Something ain't right.

 

[Wagon Loon]

My vehicle had no fuel tank when I got it,
being a failed project someone else started and gave up on.
I see cylindrical shims used, but guess you have some fettling to do, to make it fit.
That seems too be the Landy way, and many measurements seem to be less precise than the butter on my toast, like the use of shims to make the tub sit in the right place for example.
I suppose if that Tank fits a series 2, 2a, 3, and early defender; then there may have been some veriety of mounting hole placement over the years, plus I find non OEM panels always need a bit of fettling to fit anyway. Should the chassis be drilled, at least you already have the right paint to re-touch your finish.
Be interesting to see what the suppliers say

 

[6pot]

It seems replacement fuel tanks are always trouble to line up one way or another. At least it looks like you could cut those brackets that link to the tank and re-weld shorter, so the holes would line up without messing about with the chassis.

 

[BikerB]

If I cannot figure out what has happened and and it doesn't turn out to simply be the wrong tank then cutting and shutting the mounting bracket is the way to go. It will just be a pest having to do it and then repaint the tank.
I need to measure the body to make sure the filler lines up before I do anything as I can't easily move it forward.
I can't bodge the chassis as the new holes would be both inside the rear crossmember and also foul the towbar.
Its just the usual fettling, I have found that even genuine NOS bolts for the spring hangers are slightly different diameters and the shackles themselves, even though genuine LR NOS still in sealed bags, need the holes drilled out because the bolts are about 2-3mm larger in diameter than the holes
I have been lucky so far and have used next to no OEM or pattern parts but even these sometime don't fit!

 

[Wagon Loon]

Oh see what you mean!
Those tank brackets don't even look all that strong either.
Well looking on the bright side, at least it hasn't had any petrol in it yet.

 

[6pot]

Yes I have heard of problems lining up the filler with the body, that's something you really don't want to have out of kilter when everything else is sorted.

 

[BikerB]

Seems it is a known problem as I have found several other forum threads across the various LR forums who have had the same issue. Cut and shut seems the answer although it is annoying.
Looks like it is yet another batch of substandard pattern parts that will be here until they are all finally sold off. If it wasn't for the time and hassle returning it as well as the cost I would throw it back as not fit for purpose. However as usual the mug at the end of the supply chain will have to make it fit

 

[Wagon Loon]

It looks like I'll have this to look forward to down the line too, in that case.

 

[BikerB]

My experience in classic bikes and cars is the reason I avoid like the plague any "OEM" or pattern part and try to stick to Genuine NOS.
The tank is something that I always assumed would have to be pattern but at least assumed would fit!
It seems that both the side and rear mounted tanks currently on the market have incorrect mounting holes if the interweb is to be believed

 

[GSF 109]

I had the same issue with my tank and I redrilled the holes. Seemed to work okay, but I haven’t fitted the rear body to see if the filler lines up but I’m confident it will be fine. Page 13 on my build diary has some details of the issue I faced with the tank if you’re interested.

 

[BikerB]

I had the same issue with my tank and I redrilled the holes. Seemed to work okay, but I haven’t fitted the rear body to see if the filler lines up but I’m confident it will be fine. Page 13 on my build diary has some details of the issue I faced with the tank if you’re interested.

The holes on mine are in the correct place, its the tank that wrong.
The holes in the mounting bracket at the rear are 20mm too far back. Its a bit of a pest as it is the rear bracket that is the only wrongly sized part, I checked and the filler neck is in the correct place at least when measured from the crossmember, and the tank sits well on the chassis.
I will call Craddocks after the weekend but have resigned myself to cutting and shutting the bracket to fix it, sending it back doesn't guarantee a correct one will be available and will cost money and time.
Looking around the net it seems that the same issue on both rear and side mounted tanks is known about on pattern tanks but they are al that is available nowadays.

 

[BikerB]

I can't do much as I have an open motorcycle engine case on the workbench at the moment and am awaiting a pair of shells to complete the rebuild and join the cases, don't want to risk getting any dirt and grit in there after taking all the care to clean it all up and rebuild it all. I am certainly not goi9ng to start blasting, painting and cleaning Landy parts anywhere near it!
I did cloth rewrap the rear loom, added a few extra cables and re-fished it back through the chassis. The rear connectors and wring need tidying but this can be done later when I can turn the chassis over.
Also added a few bolt on bits here and there, can't go much further till I can weld up the tank and paint it so it can be bolted on.
Every little bit is closer to completion, at least its now going in the right direction.

 

[BikerB]

Slow progress at the minute, rebuilt the PDWA valve ready to start doing the brake lines, only to find out all the stuff I have is copper and I would prefer to use Kunifer on this vehicle so need to get some in. Also the switch on the PWDA is fooked and won't reliably open when released so new one of them needed.
Got all the parts of the Steering relay cleaned, painted and baked ready to assemble with all new internals, need to make a tool for that but I think I have enough bits to knock something up, doesn't need to be pretty as I hope only to use it once

The GB Parabolics are also on the way so as soon as my motorcycle shells turn up and I can clear the motor off the workbench I can hopefully fix the tank and fit this, the springs and the steering relay ready for doing the brake lines!

 

[Wagon Loon]

Kunifer brake pipes, are they any harder to flare than just copper ?
Sounds like a good idea : - )

 

[BikerB]

Well I rebuilt the PWDA valve, unfortunately found the switch was a bit dicky but I'll get a new one on my next Blanchard order.
Then I thought about how to do the steering relay and made the tool to put it together.
With this and a little bock of wood and a couple bits of tube it didn't take long to get it together using the press. Not sure what all the fuss is about these.
The only special tools other than a couple of bits of tube lying around to use as spacers were the slotted bit of stainless and the little bit of wood in the pic.
I just pressed it in with a spacer pressing down on the tube which was pressing the slotted steel onto the spring, put two screws in and released the press, put on the washer and bushes with a hose clamped, pressed it to release the tension on the spring, took out the two screws to release and then put in the vice and tapped it in. no Bother

 

[BikerB]

Kunifer brake pipes, are they any harder to flare than just copper ?
Sounds like a good idea : - )

Its only about £14/roll, I'll try it and see. The bike bus called sunday and couldn't make it for the crossmember, they said they will try and pick it up tomorrow