Series 2a Wiring

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DASH PANEL SERIES 2 proposed.png
 
mystery said:
LikeView attachment 270022
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Thats Fantastic Mate. how do you do that.
Will take that stupid rev counter thingy out and put my light switch there.
Rigged the wires up to ignition today, joined wire from coil to the red white on Solenoid it would start for a couple of seconds on the key but then stop, but when doing it with coil wired straight from battery and touching wire on to solenoid if you know what I mean it would start first time and run great.
Getting there now with all youre help, couldn't do this without it. Thanks Mate
 
border said:
Thats Fantastic Mate. how do you do that.
Will take that stupid rev counter thingy out and put my light switch there.
Rigged the wires up to ignition today, joined wire from coil to the red white on Solenoid it would start for a couple of seconds on the key but then stop, but when doing it with coil wired straight from battery and touching wire on to solenoid if you know what I mean it would start first time and run great.
Getting there now with all youre help, couldn't do this without it. Thanks Mate
Click to expand...

He's very good at those ...
 
The ignition coil is fed from the ignition switch terminal 2 providing you have the feed from battery via the solenoid connected this also feed the charge warning lamp, the oil pressure switch and choke warning lamp
DASH PANEL SERIES 2 proposed - Copy - Copy.png
 
mystery said:
The ignition coil is fed from the ignition switch terminal 2 providing you have the feed from battery via the solenoid connected this also feed the charge warning lamp, the oil pressure switch and choke warning lampView attachment 270032
Click to expand...
Ran wire from coil to number 2 on ignition and it starts and stops now on the key. Thanks Again,
Gonna try and get reast of wire fixed in so I can bolt panel in.
Fuse box next, think Ive got what goes where from your diagrams, do you know what size fuses I will need ? also will be buying a decent battery this week what size will I need ? will have to make sure it fits in battery tray too.
 
he battery size is determined from the tray size and the height is controlled by the bonnet stay when closed would chose one with the terminals nearest to the wing because of the bonnet stay
here's image of my battery ,bearing in mind it's a diesel Series 2 fitted in my Series 1 and the bonnet stay has been removed and replaced with a rod to accommodate a lager battery size manly in height
and the battery is retained by a nylon strap ( I'm not rivet counter)
20220725_094615.jpg
As yours's is fitted with a alternator do you know what the belt size is please the battery size I measured to miss the bonnet stay was 12" x 7" x 7.5"" any higher and the bonnet stay snagged the corner of the battery nearest the radiator
 
Last edited:
mystery said:
he battery size is determined from the tray size and the height is controlled by the bonnet stay when closed would chose one with the terminals nearest to the wing because of the bonnet stay
here's image of my battery ,bearing in mind it's a diesel Series 2 fitted in my Series 1 and the bonnet stay has been removed and replaced with a rod to accommodate a lager battery size manly in height
and the battery is retained by a nylon strap ( I'm not rivet counter)
View attachment 270074As yours's is fitted with a alternator do you know what the belt size is please the battery size I measured to miss the bonnet stay was 12" x 7" x 7.5"" any higher and the bonnet stay snagged the corner of the battery nearest the radiator
Click to expand...
My tray for battery is 12 inch by 7, after a bit of googling think an 069 is right fit, few people recommended this one 069 Enduroline Car Battery 75Ah - Enduroline Car Batteries (tayna.co.uk)
My belt size is 10x1075, speaking of alternator, mine has a plug with 3 pins, I have a plug with 2 thick wires and 1 thin, the thin one is missing but do the 2 thick ones go from alt to starter and where will the thin one go ?
also which size fuses will I need for fuse box ?
Thanks
 

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The thin wire from the alternator goes to the charge warning lamp and is normally N/Y. the thick ones go to the battery side of the starter solenoid
(they only go to the starter if it's a pre-engage type as they have a battery supply on its solenoid fitted a part of the starter) the fuses are 35amp ,1personally would fit a more modern fuse box and split the loading and if you use a dual type fuse box would also give you the option to fuse the aux circuits such as lighting ,and inspection sockets etc
 
Last edited:
mystery said:
The thin wire from the alternator goes to the charge warning lamp and is normally N/Y. the thick ones go to the battery side of the starter solenoid
(they only go to the starter if it's a pre-engage type as they have a battery supply on its solenoid fitted a part of the starter) the fuses are 35amp ,1personally would fit a more modern fuse box and split the loading and if you use a dual type fuse box would also give you the option to fuse the aux circuits such as lighting ,and inspection sockets etc
Click to expand...
Thanks Will try the thin wire.
Fitting the dual type box is a whole new ball game for me now, as I am really hopeless at this but have got this far with your help. If you think it will be better and can talk me through which one I need and what goes where ect, I would rather do that then use the other fuse box I have.
Do you think that battery is suitable ?
 
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