Series 2a Wiring

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mystery said:
so all you need to do is join the two U/W at driver side and use the one U/W on the passenger side for your head lights the U on the passengers wing I would disconnect from what was the old brown connector and make both ends safe .
it could be used at a later date to supply front fog lights
Click to expand...
Great Thanks

So Drivers side, the 2 U/Ws joined and connected to Main Beam Black wire on H4, and the U/R to Dipped Beam White wire on H4?

Pasenger side. U/W to Main Beam Black wire on H4, and the U/R to Dipped Beam White wire on H4 ?

Yellow Earth

Discard the U and make safe.

Or have I got that wrong
 
Well done Exactly as above but Still No Joy now still at stalk Forward Dipped. Middle High. When flicking towards for flash Still will only flash with side light's or No light's, Not with Lights On
 
swap the yellow and white at the stalk to change main and dipped positions ,check the light switch has a 12 volt feed from aux fuse box to light switch check for 12 volts on the side light position 1 then 12 volts on head light position 2 ,check that you have 12 volts on the BLACK/RED on flash switch from aux fuse box , check that the main beam warning lamp U/W ,the other BLACK /RED on stalk the U/W to head lamps and the BLACK to the stalk and the feed from the lights switch in position 2 are all connected together
 
mystery said:
swap the yellow and white at the stalk to change main and dipped positions ,check the light switch has a 12 volt feed from aux fuse box to light switch check for 12 volts on the side light position 1 then 12 volts on head light position 2 ,check that you have 12 volts on the BLACK/RED on flash switch from aux fuse box , check that the main beam warning lamp U/W ,the other BLACK /RED on stalk the U/W to head lamps and the BLACK to the stalk and the feed from the lights switch in position 2 are all connected together
Click to expand...
Just seen this before I left, didnt have time to check any voltages but did swap Yellow and White at Stalk and now seems to be working as it should, Forward Main, Middle Dipped and flashes with lights on or off, then again it has a mind of its own when O go up tomorrow it could be different, but of it is still OK is it alright to leave it with Yellow and White swapped ?
Still waiting on those bulb holders for indicators to come but when they are fitted think thats it for Lighting.
Next job will be Brake Light Switch, Green / Purple wires are in place for it. Just Need to figure out how it fixes to pedal, can't seem to find any info or pics of it when searching , but will figure it out.
 
DSCN4131s.jpg
this is how someone has done it , I personally would have repositioned the spring hanger on the peddle to the side to allow the switch to be central and routed the wires in to the dash via a hole directly above into the parcel shelf bearing in mint the image is of a left-hand drive model
 
mystery said:
View attachment 273417this is how someone has done it , I personally would have repositioned the spring hanger on the peddle to the side to allow the switch to be central and routed the wires in to the dash via a hole directly above into the parcel shelf bearing in mint the image is of a left-hand drive model
Click to expand...
Thats great Thanks got an Idea now, I have the bracket but cant find the Guard but there is one here that I think should fit, 569601 Land Rover Series brake light switch protector cover plate | eBay
Ordered loads more spade terminals from Toolstation too gonna get all the wires tidied up and fixed in properley.
 
just clicked the flash was working but you could not see it because you were already in main beam with the stalk connection to head lights as per instruction when you switched head lights of and where on side light you were able to see the
main beam flash . I would recommend you change the metal harness P clips for plastic or use plastic split tubing to protest the cables
and finally have you a image of your bracket and approx. dimensions
 
Pic of bracket, holes match up with the bolts that hold pedal box on, Test wired it up to the brake light wires and it works fine both brakes on and off on button on switch.
Just a matter of fitting it now, not sure if I can fit it without that guard or not.
 

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Normal charge and then trickle when you were running the engine did you check the alternator was charging and the warning lamp was functioning
 
mystery said:
Normal charge and then trickle when you were running the engine did you check the alternator was charging and the warning lamp was functioning
Click to expand...
Yes forgot to mention, it is not charging now as it should for some reason, it used to go up to 14 when running but now lucky if it reaches 13 usually under after revving the engine a little . The charge light was just a temporary bulb but did sort another out today, might need to drill the hole in middle of panel slightly bigger to make this one fit. I know one end goes to the thin wire coming from Alt, where does the other go again ?
 
mystery said:
ignition switch terminal 2
Click to expand...
Thanks gonna give it another go tomorrow when battery is charged.

Cant understand why the Alt is not charging as good as it used to though.
Everything else working now Thanks to you Mate, Could not have done this without you.
If you ever need any parts ask me first never know I might just have it,
 
Glad i could help, the alternator will not charger a flat battery and in some cases damage the rectifier pack ,I would check for good connections and a good earth .
I assume the warning light extinguishes when engine running and the new warning light is insulated from the dash ground (Both connection )
 
mystery said:
Glad i could help, the alternator will not charger a flat battery and in some cases damage the rectifier pack ,I would check for good connections and a good earth .
I assume the warning light extinguishes when engine running and the new warning light is insulated from the dash ground (Both connection )
Click to expand...
Put fully charged battery back on and now the dam thing won't start, turning over OK but won't fire up . Before I took battery off it would start first turn of the key, not sure what I've done now
 
Check you have 12 volts on aux fuse box and your ignition coil and that the ignition switch is working correctly because you had a feed on terminal 5 then it stopped working and you had to relocate to terminal 4
 
mystery said:
Check you have 12 volts on aux fuse box and your ignition coil and that the ignition switch is working correctly because you had a feed on terminal 5 then it stopped working and you had to relocate to terminal 4
Click to expand...
Yes there is 12 volt on both, the ignition is turning it over when turning key
 
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