Series 2a ex MOD project

NiteMare · Jan 30, 2013

small footwell sections won't matter

Turboman · Jan 30, 2013

nathanglasgow said:
Exciting times ahead! Chassis ready to be collected from Richards,just came back from galvanising yesterday so they tell me and I can collect anytime.Might nip down on Sat(well 12hr drive round trip) but depends if I get 2nd garage cleared out in time so I've got somewhere to put it.Been getting on with doors in the meantime,all sanded,dents filled and looking all smooth ready for primer.New door tops ready to be built up after painting too.My plan was to fill door channels and door tops with hot waxoyl after painting ard rotate them so all cavities are filled and then build the doors back up.Should prevent them rusting from the inside(I hope).Quick question to those that have done bulkhead repairs before-is it best to repair it insitu on the old chassis with the old chassis acting as a jig in effect or does it not matter if its removed and welded up.I've only two small sections on both footwells to do.

We have welded bulkheads both on the chassis and off without problems. Some people say they distort with the heat of galv. tank but I dont know anyone whos had a problem either with this or when welding. They ere fairly chunky items if not too rotten.
Unless you are really fond of waxoyl have you considered using dinitrol in the door channels and pillars. Ive always found it loads easier to spray than waxoyl and I think it runs much better inside the sections. I used to use waxoyl a lot years ago but have gone right off it now and prefer dinitrol or even sump oil inside chassis etc. Obviously sump oil wouldnt be good for a nice resto. but the dinitrol is good if you dont mind paying. It is a pleasure to work with compared to waxoyl, no baths of hot water needed.

nathanglasgow · Jan 30, 2013

Yup agree waxoyl is horrible,messy and difficult to apply well but I've still got about 7lts of the stuff left over from my Mini welding days.Its over twenty years old though but should be good enough for the doors and any areas not directly in the firing line of salty spray.Had planned to use better products for the underside but haven't thoroughly researched it yet.I remember reading a test of Dinitrol in Practical Classic years ago but cant recall how well it did against the other products on test,only remember it was better than waxoyl but about twice the price.

Turboman · Jan 30, 2013

See what you mean,shame to waste 7l. Ive no idea about the quality of the rustproofing chemis. just the other stuff is much easier to spray on. Are you going to paint the chassis or do anything before assembly

nathanglasgow · Jan 30, 2013

Not decided yet about painting the chassis but definitely will use some type of cavity wax on the inside of it.Painting over new galvanising successfully
involves many preparation stages but it would look original.Guess it depends on how far I want to go with originality versus usability.

Turboman · Jan 30, 2013

nathanglasgow said:
Not decided yet about painting the chassis but definitely will use some type of cavity wax on the inside of it.Painting over new galvanising successfully
involves many preparation stages but it would look original.Guess it depends on how far I want to go with originality versus usability.

I have original chassis on mine but I have painted rock sliders,steering guard etc. I drove around with them about a year, then painted with calcium plumbate primer, undercoat(nice old toxic sixties one too!) and topcoat. I just posted a pic in What have you done to your Landy today thread if you want to have a look. I did this cos I dont like the browny deposits that road salt can leave on galv. I also now peeps running bare galv without problems. Not sure but I think you can get good results on new galv. by treating it in mordant before the calcium plumbate, havent tried this one myself tho.

nathanglasgow · Feb 13, 2013

Well if the snow isn't too bad i'm going to collect new chassis tomorrow. Exciting times ahead.

Rattlegun · Feb 13, 2013

You're gonna be so pleased with it. I bet you check on it before you go to bed too, I know I do.

nathanglasgow · Feb 14, 2013

Well here it is after 11 hours and 500miles of driving.Should have it together and MOT'ed by Monday.(Hee hee)

Turboman · Feb 14, 2013

nathanglasgow said:
Well here it is after 11 hours and 500miles of driving.Should have it together and MOT'ed by Monday.(Hee hee)

That does look good enought to eat doesnt it. I always feel pumped up after a long tow too, even better if bringing back something good like a couple of rosettes or a galv. chassis. Come down is always two days after, the mileage catches up with ya!
Nice clean reassembly from now, no more grinders and cutting torches

nathanglasgow · Feb 21, 2013

Now that inside of chassis has been injected with hot waxoyl been getting on with rear tub,mostly just to get it out of the way as wife says driveway beginning to look like a scrap yard.Plan is to refurb the underside then plonk it on the chassis to keep it out of the way and fill /rub down outer panels in preparation for paint when the weather is warmer.The ally is mostly very good,the only areas that need repair are where its bolted to the tabs on the chassis.Strangely the worst bits were the galv tub crossmember supports.Replaced these after painting and waxoyling the insides so should last.

nathanglasgow · Mar 22, 2013

Not posted any updates for a while but work is still moving forward.Rear tub all sorted,underside repaired where necessary and thoroughly rust proofed.Most of the wee dings and dents filled and tub temperarly resting on chassis waiting for better painting weather.Seat box all refurbed,sanded and primed and same with the doors.Rear axle and suspension all fitted.Working on front axle now,pleasantly pleased to find all bearings,diff etc in excellent condition so just need to replace the original leather oil seals and paint it all up.Be a major step to reach the rolling chassis stage.Hope to put some more pics soon

nathanglasgow · Mar 22, 2013

Oh and meant to ask does anyone know if the swivelballs from a series 3 109 front axle are interchangable with a 11a swb front axle as I have set in better condition than what's on already

nathanglasgow · Mar 23, 2013

Few more pics.Rear tub and seatbox just resting in position out of the way.Bit cold and snowy do anything this weekend so going to do overtime at work instead!The pic of the plate on gearbox states If gearbox fitted to engine other than series,perkins,V8 then no guarantee.Must be a recon as i dont think origionals had a plate like that

Turboman · Mar 23, 2013

Looks like youre making progress up there, heard the weather is ****e up there, same in Aberdeenshire where doriss relis live. I don't think Ive seen a plate on gearbox like that, should be fine for your engine if its guaranteed for a Perkins or a v8!
Afraid I don't know a bout the swivel housings. If you've got all the bits I would think a tape and calipers should give an idea what is possible.

NiteMare · Mar 23, 2013

nathanglasgow said:
Oh and meant to ask does anyone know if the swivelballs from a series 3 109 front axle are interchangable with a 11a swb front axle as I have set in better condition than what's on already

yes they are, direct replacement

i fitted a pair of S3 swivels to an early S2 axle without any problem

nathanglasgow · Mar 23, 2013

Thanks,good to know

nathanglasgow · Mar 30, 2013

Been busy last couple of days pulling the rest of the front axle and springs off.I'd already removed the rest of the axle components down to the axle tube ends and refurbished them with new oil seals and bearings in the hubs/swivel ball housings and new swivel ball seals.All painted up awaiting reassembly with new brakes and cylinders.Axle casing and diff will get the same treatment the rear had ie new gaskets and oil seals.Not sure the area of grass in the back garden will grow again after all the parts were pressure washed before being gone over with a wire cup brush in the grinder!

nathanglasgow · Apr 11, 2013

Had a couple of days off so managed to get to the rolling chassis stage.Mentally it gives a bit of encouragement as the mountain of parts that needed cleaned/refurbished kept growing and it feels good to be finally bolting things back on.Hardest part so far has been putting the new leather gaiters on.Very tricky with fat fingers esp when cold.

NiteMare · Apr 11, 2013

i've only fitted one pair of leather gaiters, what a pig of a job that was

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