Series 2a ex MOD project

nathanglasgow · Jan 6, 2013

Oh and I plan to call Richards tomorrow to order chassis.Hope they can do one with mil rearcross member to keep its originality

major truma 2 · Jan 6, 2013

nathanglasgow said:
Oh and I plan to call Richards tomorrow to order chassis.Hope they can do one with mil rearcross member to keep its originality

if you go down and see him ,he does a good deal for cash ,if you get me

nathanglasgow · Jan 8, 2013

Well oderdered new chassis yesterday.Military rear crossmember, bolt on gearbox crossmember and the extra outrigger on passengerside for the 2nd fuel tank requested as extras.Build time quoted as 4-8 weeks.Been getting on with stripping rear axle components and discovered i only have three of the origional split rims so i'll be on the look out for a fourth.Anyone got one going spare?

nathanglasgow · Jan 8, 2013

Oh forgot to attach a few pics

nathanglasgow · Jan 8, 2013

Major T,We discussed method of payment on the phone and I suggested I pay cash on pick up.No hint of a deal but I'll be cheeky and ask more directly when I collect.Every penny counts now that the budget has to accomodate the new chassis

major truma 2 · Jan 8, 2013

yep he allways does a good deal face to face ,he is only about 15 mins from where i live

nathanglasgow · Jan 9, 2013

Manage a few more hours in the garage today.Most of the back end is stripped down.Looks like someone had a go at the rear brakes in the not to distant past as most of the components look in good unworn condition,however they put in two different sizes of wheel cylinders.One side was 1 1/4" and other had a 1" in it.Not sure whats supposed to be in there as still need to get a manual.Drivers side rear chassis leg fell off when undoing the shackle bolts and passengers side rear spring mount twisted off.

nathanglasgow · Jan 14, 2013

Got most of rear axle stripped,derusted and painted.Diff looks like it only requires a new gasket and pinion oil seal.Springs look good but need a couple of new shackle pins.Wheel bearings will be replaced as a matter of course so just waiting on the parts to rebuild the back end.Had to repair one fuel tank as well as it had rusted through in places on the top.After derusting the inside(couple of handful of nuts and bolts put inside then shaken) I used aluminium mesh and epoxy to cover holes.When this had almost set up I then covered the area with glassfibre tape and epoxy to give a good strong repair.I have used this repair method before on boat fuel tanks with 100% reliability.Military style fuel tanks are close on £150 rather than the £60 for normal types so worth repairing.Will post a few pics soon

Turboman · Jan 14, 2013

nathanglasgow said:
Got most of rear axle stripped,derusted and painted.Diff looks like it only requires a new gasket and pinion oil seal.Springs look good but need a couple of new shackle pins.Wheel bearings will be replaced as a matter of course so just waiting on the parts to rebuild the back end.Had to repair one fuel tank as well as it had rusted through in places on the top.After derusting the inside(couple of handful of nuts and bolts put inside then shaken) I used aluminium mesh and epoxy to cover holes.When this had almost set up I then covered the area with glassfibre tape and epoxy to give a good strong repair.I have used this repair method before on boat fuel tanks with 100% reliability.Military style fuel tanks are close on £150 rather than the £60 for normal types so worth repairing.Will post a few pics soon

Thats a lotta dough for a fuel tank, better if you can fix it.Shackles and pins often need replacement. Good work mate!

nathanglasgow · Jan 15, 2013

Yup fuel tank for the mil version is expensive.I half thought about getting a standard one and cutting the filler mount off the old one and fitting it to new one but looked too much trouble so went with epoxy laminated repair.A few more pics of axle strip down..

Turboman · Jan 15, 2013

Still plenty of meat on the axle casing,no rustier than the ones on my 90 were at half that age. Seen worse than that clean up and paint lovely, think the metal was better on that old stuff. Looks like it might of had a recon diff in living memory anorl, and the oil seems to still look like oil, at least ther is no chunks of metal in it.
Boat engine looks well clean too!

nathanglasgow · Jan 15, 2013

Ah yes those last two pics got put on by mistake.The boat is another passion of mine and yes myself and the other co owner like to keep a clean bilge and a clean engine bay.Dirty,oily engine=fire risk,not a good place to be on a burning boat.Axle case has indeed cleaned up very well.Just waiting for day when wife is out to bring inside to paint.She doesn't get too upset with small items being painted on kitchen table but an axle casing will be pushing it so best to do sneakly when she's out.

nathanglasgow · Jan 16, 2013

Wife at work not back till 7pm,kids at school,me on day off axle case in kitchen,paint drying nicely with fan heater to help it along.She'll never know,not

Turboman · Jan 16, 2013

nathanglasgow said:
Wife at work not back till 7pm,kids at school,me on day off axle case in kitchen,paint drying nicely with fan heater to help it along.She'll never know,not

Made mme laugh when I saw the first post. I use corroless primer on parts and it stinks the place out in the winter when its too cold to paint outside. I tell the doris she should be pleased, some folk pay to abuse solvents!
Any more pics of the boat? I love boats and know there is some other water babies on here.

nathanglasgow · Jan 17, 2013

Couple of pics of axle all painted up.In the doghouse cause kitchen still smells of paint! Got the springs off inspeceted,derusted and new bushes fitted.Just need painted. Couple more pics of our boat for Tman as requested.

Turboman · Jan 17, 2013

Thanks for that nathan, looks a beauty, you could go anywhere in that. Looks like ya got a good mooring anorl, half the battle with boats.
Sounds like your pressing on with the landy, admirable I think if wot Im seeing about the weather up there is true, at least the cold will kill the smell of paint a bit.

nathanglasgow · Jan 20, 2013

Pretty much got the back axle finished today.Its was good to be putting clean things back together rather than getting filthy pulling apart rusty grease soaked components.New bearings and seals in the hubs and a new pinion oil seal in the diff.The bit of paper stuck to the diff is a note to remind me it still needs filled with EP90.The large socket like tool next to axle in one of the photos is infact part of an old Austin Mini cv joint which just happens to be right size for drifting in the outer bearings on my Disco and the series.Still got the old brake shoes and wheel cylinders in place as they acted as a guide when i made up the new axle brake pipes.Think i'll put the new cylinders in when the new chassis is getting built up,no point in new brake components sitting for months in the damp garage.Should make a start on the front axle next week (need to do a few extra shifts at work this week to keep the pennies coming in!)My plan is to have the front and rear axles built up and complete as sub assemblies just ready to be bolted to the new chassis so it can be pushed about when needed.I took a few shots of inside the old chassis rails when i cut the remains of the back end off-not pretty.

major truma 2 · Jan 23, 2013

have you finished that little project yet mate ?,,,,,

Turboman · Jan 23, 2013

major truma 2 said:
have you finished that little project yet mate ?,,,,,

I dont think hes even picked up the chassis yet

nathanglasgow · Jan 30, 2013

Exciting times ahead! Chassis ready to be collected from Richards,just came back from galvanising yesterday so they tell me and I can collect anytime.Might nip down on Sat(well 12hr drive round trip) but depends if I get 2nd garage cleared out in time so I've got somewhere to put it.Been getting on with doors in the meantime,all sanded,dents filled and looking all smooth ready for primer.New door tops ready to be built up after painting too.My plan was to fill door channels and door tops with hot waxoyl after painting ard rotate them so all cavities are filled and then build the doors back up.Should prevent them rusting from the inside(I hope).Quick question to those that have done bulkhead repairs before-is it best to repair it insitu on the old chassis with the old chassis acting as a jig in effect or does it not matter if its removed and welded up.I've only two small sections on both footwells to do.

Series 2a ex MOD project

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