All looks ok. Could use some isopon filler and a touch of tcut. 2 hours tops.
Series 2a ex MOD project
- Thread starter nathanglasgow
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All looks ok. Could use some isopon filler and a touch of tcut. 2 hours tops.
major truma 2
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nathanglasgow
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Well after an hour of serious chassis bashing with a pointed chipping hammer disapointed to find numerous holes in the front section as well.Drivers side much worse with whole section of underside of chassis rails rotted out.Bugger! Doing the maths quickly,£350 for rear half chassis inc VAT and delivery,£50 for outrigger replacements,£200 for new steel and welding consumables and £50 for paint and waxoyle it just aint worth it.As the bulkhead is good apart from footwells and the other panels are remarkably dent free a new chassis is the way to go.Hope to have not much to do on the engine/transmission as only 47000 miles on it.Need to wait untill xmas hols are over and then phone Richards it get a quote.Wonder how much postage to Glasgow will be
Turboman
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You wont regret doing that and it isnt a bad job, mostly just simple spannering,you will need a good grinder and ideally a cutting torch to "undo" the rusty old fasteners as you strip it out. Have a god checkover the bulkhead asap you might want to repair and paint or even galv. to get the best value for the rebuild.I always found the most difficult thing is to get the mounting of the bulkhead right on the chassis after that everything bolts up quite nicely.
Quite envious of your project I would even come and give ya a hand if it wosnt a 1100 mile round trip
Dr_evil
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You've priced that up quite high…….I'd say less than that to repair a chassis
Last year I used up about £40 in steel plate and then £50 for a pair of outriggers so you could do it for less than what you're thinking
My chassis was fubar btw
Last year I used up about £40 in steel plate and then £50 for a pair of outriggers so you could do it for less than what you're thinking
My chassis was fubar btw
nathanglasgow
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A few more pics of rotten chassis hidden behind a thick hard tar like coating.Bulkhead corners are okay though as are the door pillars.
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NiteMare
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my lightweight chassis was just as bad as that along with having already had the rear quarter chassis replaced twice (badly), that gloop the mod paint them with does way more damage in the long term than ordinary paint outside and waxoyl inside
personally from looking through your photos i think you've chosen the correct route with a new chassis
repairing is ok if there is anything structurally sound enough left and you have the space, time, patience and facilities/skills in general to do so
i had to scrap a civilian chassis as well due to it having spent the first 5 or so years of it's life on building sites and had up to 3" of clay sat inside it rotting it out along the full length, another that really wasn't worth the effort of reparing it
personally from looking through your photos i think you've chosen the correct route with a new chassis
repairing is ok if there is anything structurally sound enough left and you have the space, time, patience and facilities/skills in general to do so
i had to scrap a civilian chassis as well due to it having spent the first 5 or so years of it's life on building sites and had up to 3" of clay sat inside it rotting it out along the full length, another that really wasn't worth the effort of reparing it
nathanglasgow
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Been waiting all morning for the rain to stop so I can remove the cab roof to get the necessary clearance to get it in the garage,hope it stops soon!
nathanglasgow
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nathanglasgow
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Hope to have a go at removing the rear tub tomorrow.Should get a better idea of how bad the chassis when its off.Pretty much decided to go for a new galv one but might have a go at really cleaning it up to expose just how bad it really is. Should really get a workshop manual to help me along,any advice as to which one is the most useful?
nathanglasgow
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Only managed to get seat base out today with the help of sixteen year old daughter.The bolts that hold the rear tub on have all been given a good dose of penetrating fluid(my own blend of ATF and white spirit) so should come off relatively quickly.Chassis most definately toast but fuel tanks looked good with only surface rust.Took a few pics and will post later tonight.
johnny curt 1
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hee hee it wont be long before yer rear chassis looks as good as this matey
nathanglasgow
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Cheers for the encouragement but mine is beyond economic repair.As well as the nonexistant rear sections the bottom 2" of most of the chassis on the drivers side is rotten.Removable gearbox crossmember and mounting points rotten and so is the main chassis cross member.No doubt given time and money it could be saved with a massive weldathon,at a minimum it would need rear half chassis,main cross member,gearbox cross member,all outriggers and bottom 2" of foward part of chassis.Front dumb irons look like older replacements but good chance they were weld on to crusty metal so would need a front section too.Yours does look very well repaired but I think a new chassis is the way forward.
johnny curt 1
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did mine as a weldathon the tops of those rails were thin as tinfoil so spent me time rooting through the skips at the local scrap yards fer 4mm sheeting upgraded me welder to take big pub gas bottles and asked all the builders i know in the area to save all the part used grinder n sthill saw disks they could for me
its funny how your drivers side chassis has copped for most of the tinworm like mine did
originaly my fuel tank was tied with bale twine to the drivers seatbox both outriggers on that side were non existant the entire rail sidewall had vanished on that side both front dumbirons resembled a shopping cart ( bout as many holes ) rear crossmember was new but welded badly ( probably done with a bic lighter or similar chocolate teapot ) and had to be removed and re done passengers middle outrigger bent back about 4" and bulkhead outriggers were transparent
but all in all according to the bloke that sold the landy to me ........chassis is a good un
nathanglasgow
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nathanglasgow
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Rear tub off today.Chassis pretty horrific.Richards open again for business on the 7th!Funnily enough all the bolts holding the tub on came off intact,angle grinder not needed.Back to work tomorrow so wont get to play on it till next Sunday
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Rattlegun
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That chassis is pretty bad! I think you've made a good decision getting a new one and starting with a fantastic piece of kit like a new chassis will set the standard for everything you bolt onto it, if you know what I mean.
Don't rush into getting a new one, you could do a good few months of weekend work sorting the axles and springs, bulkhead and tub etc. That's all much easier without a chassis around clogging the place up I found.
Great project.
Don't rush into getting a new one, you could do a good few months of weekend work sorting the axles and springs, bulkhead and tub etc. That's all much easier without a chassis around clogging the place up I found.
Great project.
Turboman
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It may seem a long way away but you will get a great result from rechassiing that. Tax disc free,cheap to insure but best of all an honest vehicle you can drive and enjoy for the rest of your motoring life and hand on to your helpers. And you are helping preserve our engineering history
johnny curt 1
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It may seem a long way away but you will get a great result from rechassiing that. Tax disc free,cheap to insure but best of all an honest vehicle you can drive and enjoy for the rest of your motoring life and hand on to your helpers. And you are helping preserve our engineering history
couldnt have put it better myself
nathanglasgow
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Managed to strip rear brakes this am after nightshift.Took a few pics and will post tomorrow.Drums look really good with hardly any lip on the inside and even the cylinders look good.Just one thing though the diameter of the pistons is 1.25 inches which doesn't correspond to info in haynes manual.Says that size is for 109 LWB.Has someone before me fitted wrong part or is the militry spec different from civvy?
