rumble from below!

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wammers said:
you still whinging about the correct way to shut down a turbo charged engine ..
if you want start off a new topic ..trust me I will be there to fill the blanks

your reading skills obviously not that good ..he has a rumble in the gearbox area and explained that he does not abuse the engine

I will copy and paste this incase I need to reply to you again ,,once you have read this ten times it might just sink in

just saying
Click to expand...

Not whinging about anything there is only one correct way to shut down an engine. Though you would know that, obviously you don't. You can't fill any blanks in my friend you don't know enough to do that, i have possibly forgotten more about mechanicing than you will ever know. Seems you are basically a bit of an arsehole.[/QUOTE]
LOL
now your referring to name calling how mature LOL
there is no true way of shutting down a turbo ..who knows has it just been thrashed under load etc

but as it happens my friend some automatic turbo timers adjust depending on how the turbo has been driven... they will self adjust and idle time will be from 1 minute up to 12 minutes
how ever idling an engine to long also creates other issues like glazing the bores ( I will take you back to school on this )

have you ever considered adding accumulator tank or a turbo savour

so yes I know nothing

but because I am a asshole I will not show pics of my set up thanks to you bra

besides the fact the OP already stated time again this issue is not turbo related ..or you still no convinced

hopefully this thread gets back on the rails in the mean time I enjoy roasting you

so now getting back the governor who mentioned this ? and when in the post did he say he was hitting the govoneror and then shut down ...

like I say your like my wife or a any other women you add in your side to the story and things then get way off topic
 
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I'm not really interested in who can win a who is the biggest idiot competition but I very much doubt anyone's ego is going to help out the OP.....again...:rolleyes:

The swearing in tech sections however WILL STOP
 
Jesus guys! Good tip with the screwdriver, works well on most things like alt belt pulleys as well.
I will confirm that while driving and being around the 2000-2500rpm mark there is a lot of vibration from the box area,it rattles the hell out the cig ashtray!! I think a torque converter and rebuild are on the cards
 
Mark Piercy said:
Jesus guys! Good tip with the screwdriver, works well on most things like alt belt pulleys as well.
I will confirm that while driving and being around the 2000-2500rpm mark there is a lot of vibration from the box area,it rattles the hell out the cig ashtray!! I think a torque converter and rebuild are on the cards
Click to expand...

If you had said that in the first place then you would have been told to check the flex plate straight away.
 
wammers said:
If you had said that in the first place then you would have been told to check the flex plate straight away.
Click to expand...
he did mention he had a rumble from below
and I posted this on the first page about the flex plate post # 10

but apparently I never read correctly

as the rumble is also there on shut down ..so this means in the TC not the outer part of the TC I mean the internals of the TC
 
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Mark Piercy said:
Jesus guys! Good tip with the screwdriver, works well on most things like alt belt pulleys as well.
I will confirm that while driving and being around the 2000-2500rpm mark there is a lot of vibration from the box area,it rattles the hell out the cig ashtray!! I think a torque converter and rebuild are on the cards
Click to expand...

I would suggest to stop using the vehicle until you get this fixed
this rumble is the TC inertia is out of balance this puts more stress on input shaft bearing to the transmission ..as well as other stress on the engine like main bearings and rear main seal
let alone shake your car to pieces

the TC also plays a role as a damper just like a duel mass fly wheel I have seen duel mass fly wheels let go and cause serious damage
 
ozzyboydeano said:
I would suggest to stop using the vehicle until you get this fixed
this rumble is the TC inertia is out of balance this puts more stress on input shaft bearing to the transmission ..as well as other stress on the engine like main bearings and rear main seal
let alone shake your car to pieces

the TC also plays a role as a damper just like a duel mass fly wheel I have seen duel mass fly wheels let go and cause serious damage
Click to expand...

Only thing in the torque converter that is like a dual mass flywheel is the lock up clutch plate, which has springs to smooth the lock up. If the springs had failed you would get an harsh lockup. And if they have broken up internal debris. I agree that he stops using the car until he has a definitive answer.
 
wammers said:
Only thing in the torque converter that is like a dual mass flywheel is the lock up clutch plate, which has springs to smooth the lock up. If the springs had failed you would get an harsh lockup. And if they have broken up internal debris. I agree that he stops using the car until he has a definitive answer.
Click to expand...

o only used the duel mass as an example ..as for the duel mass being the same ..they have springs and also filled with grease it ac
marky needs to test out the screw driver test as a stethoscope (as the rumble is also there after shut down
if there is a thrust bearing failed inside the TC ///AKA needle bearing this will also effect the turbine and impellor clearances
I did mention about a stall test depending on how bad these thrust bearings are damaged oil pressure compensates for wear so it may not be detected
but would be nice to do a stall test any ways he might find some strange results

up to now he has just caught this issue just in time

I really thing the screw driver test will put markys mind to rest then he will know what he is up against
 
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ozzyboydeano said:
marky needs to test out the screw driver test as a stethoscope (as the rumble is also there after shut down
if there is a thrust bearing failed inside the TC this will also effect the turbine and impellor clearances

up to now he has just caught this issue just in time
Click to expand...

Or a stethoscope of course, but he has the rumble after shutting down from 2000 RPM which he should not be doing. He still needs to check the flex plate first of all. What he describes at 2000-2500 RPM when lockup would be active is classic of broken flex plate.
 
wammers said:
Or a stethoscope of course, but he has the rumble after shutting down from 2000 RPM which he should not be doing. He still needs to check the flex plate first of all. What he describes at 2000-2500 RPM when lockup would be active is classic of broken flex plate.
Click to expand...
I agree a stethoscope but if you don't have one use a metal object like a screw driver any other solid object works just fine ..and touch various places to pin point (not to sure how many times I need to type this

I will agree about revving and this is also been covered he is only doing this for test purposes if you read back through the posts ..he looks after the old girl
so please enough about the revving issue and the rumble is not caused by this

as for the lock up there is no mention of his vehicle speed nor gear so how do you know he is in TC lock up

my understanding regardless of TC lock up he was in neutral while doing the first test on the first post

are you saying the TC locks up even in neutral

iam not here to play the game who is a better mechanic or who has the bigger knowledge
but I would suggest for you to read the full entire post to get back into it and nearly every 2nd post from you either a derailment about revving the engine

like a say the flex plate was mentioned ..but like you say what moves after the TC stops

its up to marky now to do some tests then report back and tell us his findings
 
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ozzyboydeano said:
I agree a stethoscope but if you don't have one use a metal object like a screw driver any other solid object works just fine ..and touch various places to pin point (not to sure how many times I need to type this

I will agree about revving and this is also been covered he is only doing this for test purposes if you read back through the posts ..he looks after the old girl
so please enough about the revving issue and the rumble is not caused by this

as for the lock up there is no mention of his vehicle speed nor gear so how do you know he is in TC lock up

my understanding regardless of TC lock up he was in neutral while doing the first test on the first post

are you saying the TC locks up even in neutral

iam not here to play the game who is a better mechanic or who has the bigger knowledge
but I would suggest for you to read the full entire post to get back into it

like a say the flex plate was mentioned...who know a missing or a broken bolt could also be its up to marky now to do some tests then report back and tell us his findings
Click to expand...

Well i am just wondering why Land rover say allow engine to idle for 10 seconds before switching off. That's the first bit covered. He does not specify, but if he is driving at 2000-2500 RPM and in top gear the torque converter lock will be active and the torque converter will be turning as one. No slip no different internal speeds everything locked together. It would take a lot more that a lockup clutch spring having broken up and fallen out of place to create the vibrations he mentions. Favourite would be flex plate. If he was not in top gear and at 2000-2500 RPM and getting the vibrations. Flex plate is still favourite. He needs to check it. Only after doing that and finding it sound can he look for other causes. Logical progression is the basis of any fault finding. As for your reference to dual mass flywheels they are far more stressed in operation than any torque converter will be. They are designed to reduce transmission lash at low road and engine speeds in high gears. They take a lot of punishment and yes they do fail a lot. The lockup clutch in a torque converter is much less stressed, whilst they do fail from time to time they don't fail all that often on the P38. He says his box works fine other than the vibrations that would initially lead me to think it is not a torque converter internal problem. We shall see all things are of course possible even if some are less likely.
 
wammers said:
Well i am just wondering why Land rover say allow engine to idle for 10 seconds before switching off. That's the first bit covered. He does not specify, but if he is driving at 2000-2500 RPM and in top gear the torque converter lock will be active and the torque converter will be turning as one. No slip no different internal speeds everything locked together. It would take a lot more that a lockup clutch spring having broken up and fallen out of place to create the vibrations he mentions. Favourite would be flex plate. If he was not in top gear and at 2000-2500 RPM and getting the vibrations. Flex plate is still favourite. He needs to check it. Only after doing that and finding it sound can he look for other causes. Logical progression is the basis of any fault finding. As for your reference to dual mass flywheels they are far more stressed in operation than any torque converter will be. They are designed to reduce transmission lash at low road and engine speeds in high gears. They take a lot of punishment and yes they do fail a lot. The lockup clutch in a torque converter is much less stressed, whilst they do fail from time to time they don't fail all that often on the P38. He says his box works fine other than the vibrations that would initially lead me to think it is not a torque converter internal problem. We shall see all things are of course possible even if some are less likely.
Click to expand...

as mentioned yet once again marky mentions he looks after the old girl ..have you read the full post yet

please understand he found a fault and he is doing some tests please understand this he found a vibration so he decided to rev the engine as it appeared to be RPM related even when driving
so please try and forget about revving the engine marky found something way before the issue got worse
if this is all you have start a new topic about the does and donts

please copy and paste where marky said he was in top gear ? your dreaming again

as far as we know he was driving and rpm range was 2000 to 2500 rpm my gear changes happen between 2200 and 2700 depending on percentage of throttle
how ever also copy and paste what speed marky was doing ?

so how are you so sure he was in TC lock up LOL

you seem to have your heart set on this revving have a read of this then come back to this topic and stay on track
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbo_timer
 
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ozzyboydeano said:
as mentioned yet once again marky mentions he looks after the old girl ..have you read the full post yet

please understand he found a fault and he is doing some tests please understand this he found a vibration so he decided to rev the engine as it appeared to be RPM related even when driving
so please try and forget about revving the engine marky found something way before the issue got worse
if this is all you have start a new topic about the does and donts

please copy and paste where marky said he was in top gear ? your dreaming again

as far as we know he was driving and rpm range was 2000 to 2500 rpm my gear changes happen between 2200 and 2700 depending on percentage of throttle
how ever also copy and paste what speed marky was doing ?

so how are you so sure he was in TC lock up LOL

you seem to have your heart set on this revving have a read of this then come back to this topic and stay on track
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Turbo_timer
Click to expand...

I really think it is you who needs to read everything again, he said he found the perceived problem by accident. See post #4. We are talking a Range rover P38 here nothing else. What you read on Wiki is of no consequence. Land rover quite clearly state to allow the engine on a P38 diesel to idle for 10 seconds before switching off, to prevent possible turbo damage. What the procedure is with other cars does not matter. And I don't really care what you do with your car that is up to you. I am just trying to give Mark the best advice i can based on the information he gives me. I am sorry about this, but you do seem to be a bit of a prat. Hope that doesn't offend BB overly.
 
wammers said:
I really think it is you who needs to read everything again, he said he found the perceived problem by accident. See post #4. We are talking a Range rover P38 here nothing else. What you read on Wiki is of no consequence. Land rover quite clearly state to allow the engine on a P38 diesel to idle for 10 seconds before switching off, to prevent possible turbo damage. What the procedure is with other cars does not matter. And I don't really care what you do with your car that is up to you. I am just trying to give Mark the best advice i can based on the information he gives me. I am sorry about this, but you do seem to be a bit of a prat. Hope that doesn't offend BB overly.
Click to expand...

but in post # 14 you asked a question about the TC LOl
now your given advise ..be real mate

you got annoyed mate when I posted about people jumping in with both feet

and yes I read the post correctly

here we go again with the name calling ..there is no need
I have never once called you a name although I will disagree with some things but I wont stoop that low

how ever I also feel the same about giving my advise ..considering I work with transmissions I I had posted a pic as well as many other engines I have a fair bit of knowledge ..and diagnosing an issue is my 1st language

how ever now calling out BB blue beasty(isn't a nice thing he has been patient with both of us
 
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ozzyboydeano said:
but in post # 14 you asked a question about the TC LOl
now your given advise ..be real mate

you got annoyed mate when I posted about people jumping in with both feet

and yes I read the post correctly

here we go again with the name calling ..there is no need
I have never once called you a name although I will disagree with some things but I wont stoop that low
Click to expand...

Ok you must be bad at counting or need new glasses below is a copy of post #4.

"Ah hah! First time I heard the sound was by accident, I had pulled up at home revving the engine and shut it off, (like the old carb filling trick), that's when I heard it rumbling after the engine had stopped. Ta da!"
 
wammers said:
Ok you must be bad at counting or need new glasses below is a copy of post #4.

"Ah hah! First time I heard the sound was by accident, I had pulled up at home revving the engine and shut it off, (like the old carb filling trick), that's when I heard it rumbling after the engine had stopped. Ta da!"
Click to expand...

but if you combine this post to the first post things come together
like I said I read correctly
 
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