Recommendation for D2 owners

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torlak said:
my problem is slightly different
fob stops working after heavy rain and whenever i use the key to unlock the car, hazard lights start flashing as i open any of the doors. however, i can start the engine but can not stop hazard lights at all.
tried to enter EKA code couple of times but that didnt help neither
any idea :( ?
Click to expand...

Mine was the same. A sunroof leak into the rooflining which wet the receiver, exact same symptoms. I also noticed that the red LED on the key kept flashing when I got in and tried to start, while the immobiliser kept asking it to transmit (it uses the same receiver)

Does your sounder ever sound? I found mine had been disabled by the previous owner, probably because the water had also got into the ultrasonic sensors so the alarm went off randomly.

All dried and re-sealed now. Hopefully.
 
My D2 isn't set to "always disarm with key", and I only have one key... Anyone near Northampton who can do this for me? Beer voucher on offer.
 
rolinger said:
Mine was the same. A sunroof leak into the rooflining which wet the receiver, exact same symptoms. I also noticed that the red LED on the key kept flashing when I got in and tried to start, while the immobiliser kept asking it to transmit (it uses the same receiver)

Does your sounder ever sound? I found mine had been disabled by the previous owner, probably because the water had also got into the ultrasonic sensors so the alarm went off randomly.

All dried and re-sealed now. Hopefully.
Click to expand...

never heard the alarm, only lights.
you replaced sunroof seals and all working fine now?
 
Wonder if anyone can help - my key fob and spare would not work at all on the D2 this morning - and of course unlocking with the key set off the alarm. Did the whole EKA thing and now can use key to lock and unlock - but key fobs still not working. Can you just resynchronise them or is there a more sinister problem - eg BCU issue? TVM
 
You can make a basic RF test to the receiver with nanocom, you can reprogramm keys if you want but i doubt it will help ... and you dont have to drop the whole headlining just gain access in front of the rear one... but that's not the proper thread for this discussion IMO
 
im having this peobel the chip in the key desnt work at all and it has had a new battery and it still doesnt do anything is ot worth buying a new key center and programing it then seeing if it works or do i have to check all the sensores first and try and save my money its just a pain havving to put the eak code in whenever it needs to be started
 
Ryanjbeady said:
im having this peobel the chip in the key desnt work at all and it has had a new battery and it still doesnt do anything is ot worth buying a new key center and programing it then seeing if it works or do i have to check all the sensores first and try and save my money its just a pain havving to put the eak code in whenever it needs to be started
Click to expand...
What vehicle are you having trouble with?
Does the little red LED on the key fob light up when you press a button?
If it does and the vehicle is a Discovery then the fault could be in the RF receiver in the roofspace of the vehicle.
If the LED doesn't light then you could try testing each button switch by opening the fob, dropping out the little circuit board and then linking across each button switch with something like a hairgrip or a bent paperclip.
 
brian47 said:
What vehicle are you having trouble with?
Does the little red LED on the key fob light up when you press a button?
If it does and the vehicle is a Discovery then the fault could be in the RF receiver in the roofspace of the vehicle.
If the LED doesn't light then you could try testing each button switch by opening the fob, dropping out the little circuit board and then linking across each button switch with something like a hairgrip or a bent paperclip.
Click to expand...

its a td5 s reg discovery 2
no the light doesnt light up
one of the buttons looks like it has previously replaced then has dropped off so it doesnt have an unlock button the lock one seems to work but no light shows up and the battery has being tested across a multimeter

also the indicators and the fuel door has stoped working i dont know whether that is joint to this or is a totally different problem
 
OK. I presume that you have just the one key and fob. Somewhere in the mists of time the second key has been lost.
I would in this case suggest that you get a new blade for the key cut to allow you to get into the vehicle using the EKA, then get the fob repaired.
If you take a look at @neilly's very good advice regarding D2 alarm issues you could well get some further ideas on how to proceed. You'll find it at https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/handy-buying-alarm-info.311291/ read the attachment "D2 Alarm issues rev5.pdf"
The problem you seem to have is that the only fob you have does appear to be faulty, so you have to get it repaired or replaced and a replacement key fob will need to be programmed to the vehicle. If you have access to a Nanocom you can do this yourself, if not then it could mean a trip to your nerarest Land Rover stealer for a new key (150 plus quid I think, could be more). There is at least one company online who will loan you a programming device which can be plugged into the diagnostics port to set everything up when you purchase a new key from them.
There's also a seller on ebay who claims to be able to cut a new key blade from a photograph of your key.

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Land-Rover-Discovery-2-Disco-II-Key-Blade-Cut-to-Your-Car-GUARANTEED-TO-WORK/142251477536?fits=Car+Make%3ALand+Rover%7CModel%3ADiscovery%7CPlat_Gen%3AMK+II&hash=item211ed94a20:g:0SAAAMXQI5tRhuWe

It's difficult to get such a problem sorted and keep the vehicle on the road while it's being done, not only does the key fob open and lock the vehicle when it's working, but the fob also contains a circuit to deactivate the passive immobiliser when it's in the ignition lock.
You are going to have to get a new key and/or get the old one repaired.
 
I've used this company ( in the link) and found them to be excellent.
Am I correct in thinking that a key fob from a Rover 75 also worked for the D2 if it is reprogrammed?? Another thought in the back of my mind is that there used to be an ebay seller who repaired/refurbished these fobs - but I am getting old and past it now so that could just be my imagination playing tricks.:rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
I have rad up that the bcm and I'm not talking might allso be a problem.so I am going to try leaving the key on the second position for 10 minutes and see if that does anything I will look into getting a circuit for a key and see if that works I do have a spare one so may be able to try that but the current only way to start it is the code in the door and if it stops as soon as the immobilizer comes back on it decodes that it won't start may this be that it doesn't see the key in the ignition or something like it allso I think I know someone with a nanacom so will look in or that then can see if I can get it reprogrammed with a new center and see if it will work from there if not might have to go to the land Rover dealer and see if they would help me IL see what I can do will order a key for center tonight when I get in and hopefully will sort it soon
 
sierrafery said:
After reading lots of threads about various alarm/immobiliser issues i have a recommendation ... when ever and no matter for what reason you plug in a tester, beside the main reason for what u've got there, enter in the BCU menu too and set the alarm on "always disarm with key" mode. This setting will help you to unlock and remobilise the car in case of fob/receiver failure... the fobs used to fail to unlock/disarm the alarm quite often from various reasons and if it's not set this way there is the risk to stay near an immobilised car or be recovered for serious money untill the problem will be fixed(unless u know the stored EKA). IMO it's not a matter of reducing the security of the car cos the passive immobilisation is still on untill the original key is inserted in the ignition...this setting just allows you to unlock and disarm the alarm
Click to expand...
sierrafery said:
After reading lots of threads about various alarm/immobiliser issues i have a recommendation ... when ever and no matter for what reason you plug in a tester, beside the main reason for what u've got there, enter in the BCU menu too and set the alarm on "always disarm with key" mode. This setting will help you to unlock and remobilise the car in case of fob/receiver failure... the fobs used to fail to unlock/disarm the alarm quite often from various reasons and if it's not set this way there is the risk to stay near an immobilised car or be recovered for serious money untill the problem will be fixed(unless u know the stored EKA). IMO it's not a matter of reducing the security of the car cos the passive immobilisation is still on untill the original key is inserted in the ignition...this setting just allows you to unlock and disarm the alarm with the key.... it's a matter of choice though ;)
Click to expand...
hello Fery
Where is it in nanocom? Is it one of these?
 

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