Range Rover not starting.

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

_ASH_

Member
Posts
82
Location
Staffordshire UK
Hi Guy's,

Ive got a none starting Range Rover.

There are no faults that point to why it isn't starting, however, I noticed that some modules don't seem to be responding when I plug SDD


Ive attached photo's of the faults & add module screen.

Can anyone please give me any pointers?

Many thanks in advance

Ash
 

Attachments

  • tempImageCVNvHr.png
    tempImageCVNvHr.png
    3 MB · Views: 128
  • tempImage3GyRxl.png
    tempImage3GyRxl.png
    2.7 MB · Views: 125
which car is it? don't you already have a thread on this?
its normal to see ? X i on modules not present on your car
what happens when you turn the ignition on and what happens when you try to start the engine?
 
Anyone clued up with sdd?? None starting tdv8 & live data from cranking (if I’m right, there’s decent fuel up to the pump, but not from the pump to the fuel rail (photo of the live data attached)
 

Attachments

  • tempImagejyEzfA.png
    tempImagejyEzfA.png
    2.7 MB · Views: 114
There's also the metering valve on the HPFP it seems.
As for codes for the PRV as its mechanical not sure it would show, it also seems there is no manual pressure port on the TDV8.
Short of taking out the pressure switch and putting a manual gauge in I dont know, If you do take note of possible pressure in the system.
If the sensor is duff then you could potentially be undoing a "bullet"

Been through this recently on another fred so have this handy. I will look and see if I can find electrickery for the sensor so you could check the connector.

J
 

Attachments

  • Fuel charging.pdf
    1,007.3 KB · Views: 237
As there is unto 50% of fuel at the fuel volume control valve when cranking, does this eliminate the high pressure pump?

How did you get this figure?
I dont know.

Look at the fuel pressure sensor connector, for good earth and 5v ref first.

J
 

Attachments

  • TDV8 fuel wiring.pdf
    1.8 MB · Views: 227
Hi guy's, ive tried blanking 2 injectors off at a time, hoping that id get the rail pressure up..

Anyway, still showing 0 kpa's at the rail but seems to be pressure coming out of the pump when I crank it.


What would anyone advise for next steps??rail pressure sensor/ fuel pressure control valve?

I'd be handy if I could test these through live data (If anyone knows)..

Thanks in advance

ASH
 
First off it would be really handy if all this was done within 1 thread.

But.

So reading the doc I posted.
the HP pump is giving output, the injectors will not fire if its below a certain pressure (in the doc) The rail should have stored residual pressure in it.

You seem to have out put from the pump so we can take the metering valve out (on the pump), but you are not building pressure, or is the sensor not working?
The PRV also gets its signal to operate the valve to maintain the required pressure. ( I think I stated it was only mechanical earlier but upon reading it again it appears not, my bad).

So now we get to what "I" would check.

First the sensor will have 3 wires earth/ref/signal, so you should have a ground/5v/variable v.
The PRV is probably similar. (would need to look for the dia)
So the sensor and elec connections would be first port of call.

Then I would find an analogue gauge that I could put in the sensor hole to check what pressure you actually have.

My gut says its the PRV or control of, as you have not noted any "squirt" when undoing lines after cranking which should hold a pressure.

My thoughts.

J
 
Many thanks mate, if you look at my live data pic from earlier in the post, it shows fuel volume control valve duty cycle which after a quick google is measured at the PRV which is at the rear of the left hand rail (Unless you can correct me) so to me, that shows that there is fuel pressure being pumped in, so im pointing towards the pressure sensor.. am I right in thinking this??
 
Like I said, my gut says PRV but without checking electrical connections I can’t say.

As you are getting a reading from the other valve, as if something is happening, I would not start there.

You have not said if the rail holds any pressure after cranking, which my comment about no squirts from the HP lines when you crack them.

If the lines held pressure you should see that on the pressure sensor or a squirt of fuel when you crack a line?

If it squirts its maybe the sensor, if it doesn’t then PRV?

Just trying to be logical.

J
 
Thanks mate, I will have another play about tomorrow as it's in the garage at work..

Im assuming that when you mention the PRV you are on about the pressure control valve & not a pressure release valve?

Thanks Again, I do really appreciate your help
 
Yes sorry it is the PCV in the LR doc on the back of the left hand (stood in front of the car) they refer to it as on the right(as if sitting in the car)

Going back to your post earlier the valve you have on your diagnostics as "volume control" I can only assume is the metering valve mentioned in the LR doc. If you read it it says that they (the PCV and metering valve) work together to reduce the amount of return fluid.

You have a reading from your volume valve, but no pressure reading or no fuel pressure. But you have no residual pressure. So although the pump pumps its open ended.

But as the PCV seems to have some sort of electrical control you really need to check the connections on that and the sensor.
(page 5 of the wiring dia) you can see the 2 valves linked they get there signals from the ECM.

I have no idea what the PCV consists of but would suspect some rubber seals in it that aren't working.

J
 
OK, so ive got my multimeter out & the pressure sensor has 2 feeds of 5 volts & a negative feed. the pressure control valve has a feed on one pin at 11 volts, 2 volts on the other pin (only 2 pins on the plug) but if I measure the voltage over the 2 pins im getting 8 volts.
 
First off did you probe the connectors (I.E they were still connected) or did unplug the connector ?

If you look at the wiring dia. 1 pin on the PCV is direct from Battery voltage so should read 12.5-6 volts really. what goes on in the ECM I don't know, or how it controls it.

The 5v sensors (regardless of what they do ) all work the same. They have a 5v feed, a ground, and the important "signal" which should not normally be 0 or 5v. they usually range between something like 1v and 4.something v.
If you are measuring this at the plug(not connected) then maybe you need to look at the ECM connections for corrosion/dampness, and check the lines aren't shorting out somehow.

Have you printed the wiring dia I posted earlier?

My electrical knowledge is on its limit right now. :oops:.


J
 
Back
Top