Classic Questions regarding the future

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Ah, the yet unwritten future! Did I think about that the last days, or rather weeks!

Anyway, the plans changed, mainly due to budget and credit card limits.

First, things that didn't change: She will be used for a one week trip to Corsica to explore the back country in October and then for two weeks to the Tunesian Sahara in January. The interior should be nice and look basically original (basically done). The goal is to have a good to very good technical basis for some challenging trips under difficult environments, e.g. hot, dry and dusty to cold and wet (read the Sahara and e.g. Iceland).

The plan is to replace broken and worn out parts with upgraded ones. The cam for example was replaced with a Kent H200, the timing gear with a Cloynes duplex chain. It already has a 123 Ignition distributor from the previous owner. The broken rear diff got replaced with a Truetrac. The suspension is already upgraded from her days as a towing vehicle and is very solid.

So, the future: The rebuild carbs will be installed soonish, at the same time she will get a new set of Kent valve springs and tubular manifolds for the stainless steel exhaust as the original manifold is shot. The new Mocal oil cooler, thermostat and Goddridge steel braided hoses are already in the workshop, the old lines are brittle, the thermostat is leaking, so...

Since the last excurssion to the Sahara cooked the carbs and two fuel lines, some things will change: Replacing the low quality fuel lines with steelbraided goodridge ones. Isolate the exhaust front to back as well as the carbs with some self adhesive heat reflective material I found at a motorsport / racing gear supplier. To account for the already increased power, and due to age, she'll also get a LOF clutch, most likely with a obp clutch cylinder.

Also on the to be replaced list are all the hoses and vaccum lines etc... in the engine bay with Samco silicon ones, the fuel return will be replaced by Goodridge steel braided one.

On the maybe list I have the rear diff cage and crown wheel / pinion. Currently it is leaking heavily, that depends so, it using the other cage I have lying around fixes it, that's fine. Same goes for the leaking sump, that only leaks only on one bolt. If, and that is a big if, some external sealant isn't enough the sump will be replaced assuming it is not a engine block issue. Preferably with a SD1 Vitesse sump if I can find one.

On the I want list we have an improved cooling system: Proper header tank, silicon hoses, new radiator and electric fans. The engine did not over heat last time despite 55 degree celsius in the desert, which is good. Still, the radiator is 43 years old and it doesn't seem the viscous coupling has ever been replaced, at least I didn't find anything in the full list of invoices I have for the car.

That's the expensive bit, Allisport has a straight replacement kit with dual 280 mm SPAL fans, that looks really nice and promising. The header tank and hoses aren't that expensive so.

Whennall that is done, and all fluids are replaced and such, I will be bit poorer, but the car will be in ship shape. Throw in tires with the three mointain peak and snow flake logo to take the ferry in Italia in January, a new roof rack (needed anyway as I do not trust the old one anymorw) and a roof tent and I am all good.

The one thing I am absolutely not sure about is the cylinder heads. We'll see how she drives when the carbs and new manifolda are in, if anything the very lean loaner SUs are already very promising! But then, well, those flow optimized heads from Turner engineering aren't prohibitively expensive (well, the almost are) and sound like a fun thing to do. I do need to dig a bit deeper into how much power out put the 10 spline axles and stock diffs can take. Switching to 23 spline axles is not something I'd like to do, as I have the basically new 10 spline true trac in the back. Upgrading the front to HD with a 4-pin diff center would be ok so, especially since I somehow think the front diff isn't in perfect shape anyway.

To be seen, because I could always order a rebuilt front diff from Ashcroft and use the non-leaking diff housing for the rear diff. To be seen as soon as I passed TÜV and got her back to the mechanic for exhaust and carbs.

Still refusing to add up all the invoices so, that would be just to depressing. One of those instances where ignorance, if you can afford it, is a bliss!

Edit: Forgot about ignition, that will be some good inginition cables, new spark plugs and a new coil, nothing fancy, juat some minor upgrades.

🫣😭🥴
 
Ah, the yet unwritten future! Did I think about that the last days, or rather weeks!

Anyway, the plans changed, mainly due to budget and credit card limits.

First, things that didn't change: She will be used for a one week trip to Corsica to explore the back country in October and then for two weeks to the Tunesian Sahara in January. The interior should be nice and look basically original (basically done). The goal is to have a good to very good technical basis for some challenging trips under difficult environments, e.g. hot, dry and dusty to cold and wet (read the Sahara and e.g. Iceland).

The plan is to replace broken and worn out parts with upgraded ones. The cam for example was replaced with a Kent H200, the timing gear with a Cloynes duplex chain. It already has a 123 Ignition distributor from the previous owner. The broken rear diff got replaced with a Truetrac. The suspension is already upgraded from her days as a towing vehicle and is very solid.

So, the future: The rebuild carbs will be installed soonish, at the same time she will get a new set of Kent valve springs and tubular manifolds for the stainless steel exhaust as the original manifold is shot. The new Mocal oil cooler, thermostat and Goddridge steel braided hoses are already in the workshop, the old lines are brittle, the thermostat is leaking, so...

Since the last excurssion to the Sahara cooked the carbs and two fuel lines, some things will change: Replacing the low quality fuel lines with steelbraided goodridge ones. Isolate the exhaust front to back as well as the carbs with some self adhesive heat reflective material I found at a motorsport / racing gear supplier. To account for the already increased power, and due to age, she'll also get a LOF clutch, most likely with a obp clutch cylinder.

Also on the to be replaced list are all the hoses and vaccum lines etc... in the engine bay with Samco silicon ones, the fuel return will be replaced by Goodridge steel braided one.

On the maybe list I have the rear diff cage and crown wheel / pinion. Currently it is leaking heavily, that depends so, it using the other cage I have lying around fixes it, that's fine. Same goes for the leaking sump, that only leaks only on one bolt. If, and that is a big if, some external sealant isn't enough the sump will be replaced assuming it is not a engine block issue. Preferably with a SD1 Vitesse sump if I can find one.

On the I want list we have an improved cooling system: Proper header tank, silicon hoses, new radiator and electric fans. The engine did not over heat last time despite 55 degree celsius in the desert, which is good. Still, the radiator is 43 years old and it doesn't seem the viscous coupling has ever been replaced, at least I didn't find anything in the full list of invoices I have for the car.

That's the expensive bit, Allisport has a straight replacement kit with dual 280 mm SPAL fans, that looks really nice and promising. The header tank and hoses aren't that expensive so.

Whennall that is done, and all fluids are replaced and such, I will be bit poorer, but the car will be in ship shape. Throw in tires with the three mointain peak and snow flake logo to take the ferry in Italia in January, a new roof rack (needed anyway as I do not trust the old one anymorw) and a roof tent and I am all good.

The one thing I am absolutely not sure about is the cylinder heads. We'll see how she drives when the carbs and new manifolda are in, if anything the very lean loaner SUs are already very promising! But then, well, those flow optimized heads from Turner engineering aren't prohibitively expensive (well, the almost are) and sound like a fun thing to do. I do need to dig a bit deeper into how much power out put the 10 spline axles and stock diffs can take. Switching to 23 spline axles is not something I'd like to do, as I have the basically new 10 spline true trac in the back. Upgrading the front to HD with a 4-pin diff center would be ok so, especially since I somehow think the front diff isn't in perfect shape anyway.

To be seen, because I could always order a rebuilt front diff from Ashcroft and use the non-leaking diff housing for the rear diff. To be seen as soon as I passed TÜV and got her back to the mechanic for exhaust and carbs.

Still refusing to add up all the invoices so, that would be just to depressing. One of those instances where ignorance, if you can afford it, is a bliss!

Edit: Forgot about ignition, that will be some good inginition cables, new spark plugs and a new coil, nothing fancy, juat some minor upgrades.

🫣😭🥴
Never count the expense unless it's a clients😜
 
Sooo, I skipped training today and attacked those harnesses!

Good new first: all colors on the Autospark one, so far, are the same as those in the repair manual (only exception in one in the engine bay). That is quite good! The rear loom is almost installed, I did cut out the existing trailer wiring, some proper ones to come one day or so. Only thing I need is to properly fix it with clamps against the chassis. Not at the original place, somehow I do not want to remove the tank. I did screw up the connection to the sender unit, I accidentally pulled those and now I don't know which wire goes where.

The engine harness is figured out, I found all the places the wires go, and with the exception of the alternator, all connectors are the correct ones. The alternator is an after market one, so hardly Autosparks fault. The loom is routed behind the air filter box, so that has to go before the harness goes in. Only thing that surprises me, the ignition coil only has one connector to the engine harness, one between distributor and coil and than the main ignition one. Weird, the old transistor ignition used all lot more contacts. It fits the wiring diagram, so it shoild be fine.

I also ripped out almost all non original cables behind the dashboard, and those were quite a few. The electric window winders were routed through what I assume was the speed control switch. For reasons I assume. The rpm gauge as well. So those will go as well, my credit card should still have enough limit for the manual winders, I need to check.

It was the perfect occasion to use the new tools so! New shiney tools!

The bad news is, and I was somewhat afraid of that, that the dashboard harness is routed behind the heater unit... So that needs to be removed. Assuming the wire colors of the dash harness are matching as well, installation should be straight forward.

Oh, and since yesterday I am on the Allisport back order list for their RRC V8 radiator with duel electric fans from Spal.

All.in all, a good day so far!

Pics!!!
 

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I just found out what one of the wires on the coil is / was for: that's where the added rev counter took his input from. Good news, as it is an electronic one already calibrated for 8 cylinders, all I have to do is to connect it to the coil and the ignition positive at the fuse box, and a negative. Done. Which opens up the place where the pressure gauge for the pneumatic break system was for other things, like some 12v plugs or a gearbox temp sensor.
 
So, if I want to do it right, and that's what I am doing at the moment, I use the proper bullet type connectors. Autospark had those in stock, hence I ordered a ton. Turns out I need a proper crimping tool, well, the rev meter will have to wait, another 80 bucks is out of the question for July with vacation coming up and all that. Or I use some modern connectors and replace those later.
 
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