ukadamwest
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P38A Project P38
- Thread starter monkfish24
- Start date
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monkfish24
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So, first job is plugs out and see if any are washed clean and all seem quite good, near side first picture, off side second pic. Obviously that doesn't mean the head hasn't gone between the coolant and oil ways. I was hoping I would get a good indication though as to which bank may be gone .
The Mayo in the cap may just be from short runs, the over pressure is from the coolant cap not releasing pressure possibly mixed with leaking heater matrix o rings?
The non working cruise control seems an easy fix with regards to an air leak.... An open T piece.
The Mayo in the cap may just be from short runs, the over pressure is from the coolant cap not releasing pressure possibly mixed with leaking heater matrix o rings?
The non working cruise control seems an easy fix with regards to an air leak.... An open T piece.
ukadamwest
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It could be leaking into the oil from the front cover gasket. mine is seeking out the front cover to the top. it's on my next list of jobs to do.
I understand that the front cover gasket can leak to the inside too resulting in coolant into the oil. if you have the heads off might as well do the front cover gasket at the same time. I'm kicking myself I didn't do it with the HGs
I understand that the front cover gasket can leak to the inside too resulting in coolant into the oil. if you have the heads off might as well do the front cover gasket at the same time. I'm kicking myself I didn't do it with the HGs
ukadamwest
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Its a clue !!!
monkfish24
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From what I saw last night, the coolant cap is not blowing off and the viscous fan is not very stiff. It felt the same hot as when it was cold. That coupled with the O rings leaking on the heater matrix allowing air in. I am curious if that's doing more to overheat the car.
On a side note I have, all my bloody big spanners have gone missing while I was away... Grrrrr
On a side note I have, all my bloody big spanners have gone missing while I was away... Grrrrr
Datatek
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do the rolled newspaper test on the viscous because a duff viscous will certainly lead to overheating.
monkfish24
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Bit too late at the moment, I'm just about to get the intake manifold off
Whilst it had overheated last night, I switched off the engine and released the pressure. As I was doing that, I span the fan by hand and it felt no different to what it does this morning before starting it to get it to my garage. I popped off the top radiator hose and full of air,along with the radiator.
Does anyone know if you can get a radiator hose with a bleed screw like the freelander has?
Whilst it had overheated last night, I switched off the engine and released the pressure. As I was doing that, I span the fan by hand and it felt no different to what it does this morning before starting it to get it to my garage. I popped off the top radiator hose and full of air,along with the radiator.
Does anyone know if you can get a radiator hose with a bleed screw like the freelander has?
Datatek
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A hose with a bleed screw should not be necessary, squeezing and releasing the hose rapidly should expel any air.
I'd put the manifold back, it really sounds like the viscous fan is fecked.
monkfish24
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More than happy to if you wouldn't be too worried about the mayonnaise.
While I'm here, I might just take the rocker covers off and see how clean it is under there. If the oil looks good, I'll do as you say and see how she goes.
Datatek
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Mayonnaise looks bad, but if it's always used on short runs not completely surprising.
monkfish24
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That's exactly my thoughts.
Thanks JLR for fitting 12 point bolts on the rocker covers.
No, I've not carried out a compression test yet, it's not been in my possession for 24 hours yet.
Henry_b
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It Would of been bmw/ford to blame for those bolts, they're like that on the classic aswell so i guess BL is too blame aswell.
If you have the want and inclination a top end refresh is the way to go, and personally if you've cooked it a few times then the gaskets will be on borrowed time and from what i can see they're blown already..
monkfish24
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I didn't get any photos as it's getting bloody cold in my garage butttttttt there is definitely loads of water in the oil. Definitely warrants a further strip down and probably engine out when I've got more than one pair of hands with me.
I am at the point where I just need to pop the fuel rail and coil pack off and then get the intake manifold off before I start on the heat shields and exhaust manifolds. Then I'll be in a position to get a second set of hands and get the heads off, then I'll be in a better position to see if I need to pull the engine or not.
Anyway, here are a few photos of the RR itself. Looking a bit sorry for itself at the moment.
I am at the point where I just need to pop the fuel rail and coil pack off and then get the intake manifold off before I start on the heat shields and exhaust manifolds. Then I'll be in a position to get a second set of hands and get the heads off, then I'll be in a better position to see if I need to pull the engine or not.
Anyway, here are a few photos of the RR itself. Looking a bit sorry for itself at the moment.
Datatek
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I'll buy the interior
monkfish24
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I'll buy the interior
Yeah, I think a few parts are a bit too gone for a valet! The door card "carpets" will get swapped for something a bit more luxurious than carpet seeing as they are coming off.
The sunroof has a leak and the headlining needs replacing so I will do them as one job a bit later.
The radio wiring has been hashed, the blend motors need replacing and the heater matrix o rings need replacing so I'll do that as a dash off job in one go as well.
The seats work ok, the drivers one seems to twist on the base when you send it back too far, weirdly, and the seat heater is not working. The light comes on on the HEVAC panel so I'm hoping it's just an element change but I think I will try to find a matching seat and refurbish it and just swap the current one out.
It will be a workhorse for the farm but I still want it looking presentable when I do take it to town on market day
ukadamwest
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ukadamwest
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It may not be the O rings. I thought mine had gone as is common after a HG.
The pipe run inside the bulkhead is longer then out side so any small movement on the heater pipes during a HG job has lot bigger lever moment inside the cabin compared to engine bay.
The heater matrix attach point for the pipes is plastic and can crack.
Aside, I thought after my HG job the O rings were seeping due to this.
Took it to MartyUK who did the heater matrix replacement. Turns out mine was rotted through.
Any air getting into the coolant system will result in an airlock once enough water has been lost due to the top hose being higher than the expansion bottle.
The pipe run inside the bulkhead is longer then out side so any small movement on the heater pipes during a HG job has lot bigger lever moment inside the cabin compared to engine bay.
The heater matrix attach point for the pipes is plastic and can crack.
Aside, I thought after my HG job the O rings were seeping due to this.
Took it to MartyUK who did the heater matrix replacement. Turns out mine was rotted through.
Any air getting into the coolant system will result in an airlock once enough water has been lost due to the top hose being higher than the expansion bottle.
monkfish24
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I got a bit more work done today, only a few hours.
I've worked out an easy way to get the rusted heat shield bolts out.
A few photo's ok under the rocker covers. very well burnt on crap!
Near side then off side bank
I've worked out an easy way to get the rusted heat shield bolts out.
A few photo's ok under the rocker covers. very well burnt on crap!
Near side then off side bank
Henry_b
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Wow the previous owners were big on oil changes and maintenance
best strip it down and clean it out!!
'tis what i'd do!
