P38A Project P38

monkfish24 · Sep 13, 2019

marjon said:
Do an exchange core unit and “top hats” that way you know block is good.

Did our 4.6. Years ago, with V8tuners. Paul was a gent and understood the logistics problem we had. Flew it air freight and no core exchange.
Loads of options if you can do the spanner work

While you are at it if your game they would go to 5.2 just saying

J

Thanks for that! I've just had a look on their page and their options look pretty good!

monkfish24 · Sep 13, 2019

Just thought I'd show a picture of the lock tap I made to keep the torque converter in place.

monkfish24 · Sep 13, 2019

Seems pretty conclusive, liner feels ever so slightly lower than the rest. Interestingly, the HG I mucked up held beautifully.

RangeRoller dt · Sep 13, 2019

Ah see... it wasn’t you it was the liner!

monkfish24 · Sep 13, 2019

A few more pictures of the liner heights and unfortunately, a pretty nasty looking crank bearing faces.

I'll let you guess which one the bad liner is from these 3!

monkfish24 · Sep 13, 2019

Better photo of the crank journals!

Henry_b · Sep 13, 2019

'Tis ****ed

Thats the techie term!

Looks like its had a hard life.

monkfish24 · Sep 13, 2019

Henry_b said:
'Tis ****ed

Thats the techie term!

Looks like its had a hard life.

From what I can tell, The coolant leak has been going a while and the coolant has been heated a lot and has crystalised, the sump is caked in ****. To be honest, even if I had managed to solve it with a new head gasket, that bottom end wouldn't have lasted much more than a few years before it started getting noisy!

can you tell which liner was the worst one?

I will check the crank to see if it's worth grinding down but I assume it will beyond it's tolerances already. the bearing shells have gone through the white metal coating and through to the copper layer!

Still, I had a good chat with Paul from V8tuners today about engine blocks and parts, which was interesting and positive. I will chat to turners on Monday and find out from them what the score is with their liners.

Henry_b · Sep 13, 2019

monkfish24 said:
From what I can tell, The coolant leak has been going a while and the coolant has been heated a lot and has crystalised, the sump is caked in ****. To be honest, even if I had managed to solve it with a new head gasket, that bottom end wouldn't have lasted much more than a few years before it started getting noisy!

can you tell which liner was the worst one?

I will check the crank to see if it's worth grinding down but I assume it will beyond it's tolerances already. the bearing shells have gone through the white metal coating and through to the copper layer!

Still, I had a good chat with Paul from V8tuners today about engine blocks and parts, which was interesting and positive. I will chat to turners on Monday and find out from them what the score is with their liners.

All hose liners were equally shatted IMO.

Those crank journals would benefit from a polish, and go from there, but first i'd get some autosol and fine wire wool on them, for ****s and giggles to see what the outcome would be.

And go from there.

But tbh if you're getting a new/used/reconditioned block eh well.

monkfish24 · Sep 13, 2019

Henry_b said:
All hose liners were equally shatted IMO.

Those crank journals would benefit from a polish, and go from there, but first i'd get some autosol and fine wire wool on them, for ****s and giggles to see what the outcome would be.

And go from there.

But tbh if you're getting a new/used/reconditioned block eh well.

Yeah, I'll get a micrometer and measure them all before spending any time on them.

One of those liners did this.....

Henry_b · Sep 13, 2019

I've seen loose liners wear a perfect round ridge in the cylinder head.

Nasty little things.

monkfish24 · Sep 13, 2019

So slipped liners aren't really an issue until they knock? It's just when they are cracked on the block as well it's a real issue?

Henry_b · Sep 13, 2019

monkfish24 said:
So slipped liners aren't really an issue until they knock? It's just when they are cracked on the block as well it's a real issue?

Liners only drop when the block cracks.

They tap for a while and eventually they brake the casting and drop into the crank while its rotating and the engine locks and the block shatters bits go flying etc etc

Because of poor casting on some engines "human error" the water jackets are off centre and extremely thin on one side, the thin side cracks when overheated and thats where the "tap" and water consumption comes from as the liner shrinks away from the block.

Usually water either works its way up and punches through the headgasket or down into the sump, or both!

Coscast blocks were quite good and near enough perfect but uber eggspensive, if you can find one!!

An example of poor casting is the mismatched machine marks above the Bores for the tappets, some have machine marks some don't etc etc

monkfish24 · Sep 13, 2019

Henry_b said:
Liners only drop when the block cracks.

They tap for a while and eventually they brake the casting and drop into the crank while its rotating and the engine locks and the block shatters bits go flying etc etc

Because of poor casting on some engines "human error" the water jackets are off centre and extremely thin on one side, the thin side cracks when overheated and thats where the "tap" and water consumption comes from as the liner shrinks away from the block.

Usually water either works its way up and punches through the headgasket or down into the sump, or both!

Coscast blocks were quite good and near enough perfect but uber eggspensive, if you can find one!!

An example of poor casting is the mismatched machine marks above the Bores for the tappets, some have machine marks some don't etc etc

There is a coscast on eBay for 2.5k, 7k miles, that's more than the parts for a new top hat build...

Henry_b · Sep 13, 2019

monkfish24 said:
There is a coscast on eBay for 2.5k, 7k miles, that's more than the parts for a new top hat build...

They're eggspensive

Just build a good top hatter.

And don't cook it

marjon · Sep 13, 2019

monkfish24 said:
Still, I had a good chat with Paul from V8tuners today about engine blocks and parts, which was interesting and positive. I will chat to turners on Monday and find out from them what the score is with their liners.

Glad you had a chat and he is still around, but there is nothing wrong with talking to a few .

monkfish24 said:
can you tell which liner was the worst one?

If I was gonna put a beer on it pic#2

monkfish24 said:
There is a coscast on eBay for 2.5k, 7k miles, that's more than the parts for a new top hat build.

Go for the top hat, simple. From whomever you feel most comfy with.

Your block and crank are probably still serviceable so you would get your core charge.

J

monkfish24 · Sep 13, 2019

marjon said:
Glad you had a chat and he is still around, but there is nothing wrong with talking to a few .

If I was gonna put a beer on it pic#2

Go for the top hat, simple. From whomever you feel most comfy with.

Your block and crank are probably still serviceable so you would get your core charge.

J

You are Bob on with number 2, you can actually see the water coming out.

I'm 100% on top hat liner, it's just like a K series though, it seems there are so many opinions flying around that I just want to strike the right balance of money and finished outcome. I've built a great little K series turbo that has run faultlessly for a year now and 15k miles, despite my early eagerness to just get it running, I'd like to make an engine that is solid and lasts now I'm going the whole hog.

monkfish24 · Sep 13, 2019

Pressure washer will be out tomorrow to clean out the engine bay and chassis rails.

marjon · Sep 13, 2019

monkfish24 said:
it seems there are so many opinions flying around that I just want to strike the right balance of money and finished outcome.

The top hat design is/was a game changer for the LR V8 block. Build from that base and it will last.

J

P38A Project P38

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