Problem fitting egr blanking kit.

Shifty1962 said:

I'd give the soaking and heat a go before you start cutting. If that dont work then carefully cut the head off the bolt, remove the EGR pipe, screw a nut on the stud, weld the nut to the stud, undo the nut and voila the stud comes out. Or it shears off and you need to start drilling etc. Its a tough one but not the end of the world.

Cant remember if its a 5mm or 5.5mm hex but I know you can get better leverage with a socket hex. If the hex bolt is completely buggered you could try clamping some mole grips on the head and giving them a twist. You can also get some small sockets from Halfrauds that work on rounded nuts and bolts. The tighter you turn them the harder they grip. Dont forget the manifold is cast iron so dont go banging it around too much or it will crack.

Persevere as the end result means a clean breathing engine.

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Interesting.

Would you advise all owners to give this a go every so often or is it just a non-essential thing to do?

BuzzLand said:

Interesting.

Would you advise all owners to give this a go every so often or is it just a non-essential thing to do?

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If you mean taking the bolts out and greasing them then only do it if you have to remove them for a reason. I always use a smear of copper grease on any nuts and bolts that I remove unless it is specifically noted not to such as on lock nuts or when torqueing certain bolts such as cylinder head bolts. The grease can affect the final torque reading. Its not so important when angle tightening though.

However if you mean blanking or removing the EGR system then the answer is a definite yes. My exhaust emmissions are lower without the EGR system fitted than when it was supposedly working and I know my engine is breathing clean air. I've kept the parts just in case the law changes in which case they will be like hens teeth and twice as expensive assuming you could still get them. If I have to put it back on then it will only be fitted for MOT purposes then blanked off again for everyday use.

I just rounded the hex on the lower bolt on mine .....

bugger

wickford90 said:

o.k. i'm on the look out for another manifold , half hour refit ! i can cope with that.

test glow plugs? , for what and what with ?. i think i can cope with that as well. take off hose and wipe clean, piece of ****. parafin, paint thinners and blow torch , is'nt that the recipe for weapons of mass destructions. if i don't end up in the burns unit i will let you know how i get on.

thanks for you time fellas

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I have a spare one advertised on the FOR SALE section.
Land Rovers For Sale - TD5 Inlet Manifold - Powered by PhotoPost Classifieds
It needs a good clean up though as I cant face doing it.
PM me if you're interested.

Just fitted mine Shifty. Thanks for the advice the other day.

My bolts came out easy. Looks like they had a little copper grease on all of them.

I found the easiest thing to use was a socket set with the various extensions/flex angles etc and the Hex adapter in the end

Problem fixed on mine now. It was the bottom of the two allen bolts that fit into the exhaust manifold that turned out to have a head made of cheese…

The allen bit just turned and rounded it out, so I tapped in a torx bit, and that just rounded it out that bit more. So I tapped in the next size and of course that rounded too.

I did think about cutting the pipe to improve access and see if I could get a pair of grips on it - but then I'd be committed to getting it done and I needed the truck for work the next day.

So I used a hack saw blade and started to cut a slot into the head - I had about 5-10mm of movement - so I did that until it was becoming mental torture and packed in for the night. I figured I'd drive it up to my friends, cut the pipe off, and try to weld a bolt onto the head.

Next morning I thought I'd have another go with the hack saw blade and realised I'd made half decent progress the night before. So I tapped in a screwdriver bit and turned the ratchet … and it started to round off the head.

Oops - running out of options. So I knocked in the largest scredriver bit I had - started to turn - it started to round … so I reveresed it and tightened it up a bit and then BINGO - it came un-done.

Glad you sorted it. Giving stubborn bolts a slight tighten before trying to undo them is a trick I was shown by an old school mechanic nearly 40 years ago.
If you took it to LR today they would tell you it needs a new manifold because they could not get the bolt out. F**k knows what they learn at mechanic school these days but its not basic spannering or problem solving thats for sure.