Picked up a 300tdi :)

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Not much of an update really but things are moving along slowly :)

After sealing the sunroof the rear one was still leaking so i stripped everything out and had another look.Water was getting in between the glass and the glass seal so i took it out and put some sealant under it so it made better contact with the glass,its not leaked since :)

I moved the rear speakers and put them above the front seats,i can actually get decent sound with the windows down and without the sub lol

Wired the cb direct to the battery rather than the stereo wires.

Changed the diff and transfer box oils.

Had to fix the gear lever bias plate as it had snapped.

Next on the list is welding,i need to get all the panels ect and double check i have everything before i start so if somebody could check over my list that would be great :)

Boot floor - ordered

Under floor support
Land Rover Discovery Rear Under Floor Support - YRM Metal Solutions

Side skirts x2
Land Rover Discovery & Range Rover Classic Rear Floor Side Skirts - YRM Metal Solutions

Skirt repair section - Do i need these for the top and bottom of the boot floor?
Land Rover Discovery & Range Rover Classic Rear Floor Side Skirt Repair Section - YRM Metal Solutions

Spot weld drill bits
HSS COBALT SPOT WELD DRILL BIT SET 6mm & 8mm by BERGEN | eBay

Been looking at this stuff to go on the bare metal as it can be primed over.
Rust Prevention | Order Electrox Spray & Protect Steel from Corrosion

Not sure if im going to paint it the original colour or just cover it in por15.

Will i need to use 6mm or 8mm welding wire?

I have a grinder with 1mm cutting discs and some thick grinding discs,sand paper discs for the grinder and some wire wheels.

Rust treatment.
Fertan Rust Converter (1 Litre) | eBay

The rear arches ahve been repaired in the past but it looks like a bodge job so they will need looking at.

The sill are fecked on the outside,thinking of using box section,is this the right size?
Discovery Sill Replacement ? - Steel Box Section 100mm x 60mm x 3mm -1400mm long | eBay


Now the really bad part,the chassis has two holes in it underneath the rear body mounts (i think its been used as tow car for a boat as the back end is quite rusty),im not going to be able to get in there with the grinder so im thinking the mounts have to be removed (ill get some pictures tomorrow). Will i need 2.5mm steel for the chassis?

Thats all i can think of for now lol

cheers.
 
Snapped a few pics,one of the chassis,one of the door and the wheel arch.

For some reson the ipad won't let my add more than one picture at a time.

Is there meant to be a gap?
 

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This is the one that worries me,will I need to remove the mount from the chassis to do a proper job?
 

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My serpentine belt tensioner shat itself this morning,I came into a corner at my normal speed and had no power steering which was fun lol

Thankfully the bearing is the same size as the ac idler so I stuck the that in for now.
 

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Also should the new boot floor have the lip around the edge? I thought it should be flat for spot/plug welding?
 

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Had my first go at welding today :)

I cut out the rusty bits and welded a plate over it rather than but welding it as im just not good enough yet and keep blowing holes and or cant get good penetration.

I used weld through primer and painted the bits that i cant get too before welding,ive primed and painted in all the gaps so i presume its ok to use tiger seal then paint then under body protect?

Or should i have welded the underside too?
 

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Took the front wing off today to get a better look at the rust as I will be doing some next weekend and its worse than I thought.
 

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