Petrol Engine.

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After looking for a decent 2.25 petrol engine or similar for Series 109 rebuild with no luck, decided to have a go at this one who has been hiding in the shed for god knows how many years.
Could not get it to turn the other day but was in a bad place to get to and didnt have the right tools either.
Gonna get it up my place Sunday and see whats what with it.
Couple of questions, First one If it is seized is it fixable ? and what would be average cost for parts be ?
 

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Yes:)
Cost No idea until you take the top off and have a look in the bottom:eek::D
Would it be less the the running 1 you were looking at I don't know but at least you will have a known good 1 when you finish:).

J
 
Price up oversize pistons, big end,and main bearing shells and a new timing chain. Full gasket set too.
Then ring a few engine reconners and ask how much for a rebore and hone and a crank grind . Worth asking for an unleaded head conversation ( hardened seats and possibly valves too, they may not need this but I know nowt about landy petrol engines).
Price up a camshaft and a rebuilt carb and distributor too. Could cost a fortune! You may get away with most of this though but you won't know until you strip it.
You may need even more, oil pump, water pump, core plugs, clutch etc etc.
 
marjon said:
Yes:)
Cost No idea until you take the top off and have a look in the bottom:eek::D
Would it be less the the running 1 you were looking at I don't know but at least you will have a known good 1 when you finish:).

J
Click to expand...
The one I was looking at never came off he has buy it now for 800 I went up to 700, but he declined my offer as someone else had offered 750 but he declined them also. He must want around 799 or thereabouts :)
Flossie said:
Price up oversize pistons, big end,and main bearing shells and a new timing chain. Full gasket set too.
Then ring a few engine reconners and ask how much for a rebore and hone and a crank grind . Worth asking for an unleaded head conversation ( hardened seats and possibly valves too, they may not need this but I know nowt about landy petrol engines).
Price up a camshaft and a rebuilt carb and distributor too. Could cost a fortune! You may get away with most of this though but you won't know until you strip it.
You may need even more, oil pump, water pump, core plugs, clutch etc etc.
Click to expand...
Bloody hell there's a lot of bits there to check :eek: I aint doing it myself that's for sure a mate who knows a little bit about them is going to check it, but I will have to try and find someone to do the work for me.
kermit_rr said:
You might be lucky and find minimal problems in the bores.
How hard have you tried to turn it? Have you tried turning the wrong way?
Click to expand...

Couldn't really get a good go at it as is in an awkward place, but will get it up my place on sunday.
 
border said:
Bloody hell there's a lot of bits there to check :eek: I aint doing it myself that's for sure a mate who knows a little bit about them is going to check it, but I will have to try and find someone to do the work for me.
Click to expand...

There’s a lot in there that you could cope with:).

J
 
Flossie said:
Price up oversize pistons, big end,and main bearing shells and a new timing chain. Full gasket set too.
Then ring a few engine reconners and ask how much for a rebore and hone and a crank grind . Worth asking for an unleaded head conversation ( hardened seats and possibly valves too, they may not need this but I know nowt about landy petrol engines).
Price up a camshaft and a rebuilt carb and distributor too. Could cost a fortune! You may get away with most of this though but you won't know until you strip it.
You may need even more, oil pump, water pump, core plugs, clutch etc etc.
Click to expand...

In fact all of that...but better than spending 800 on an unknown and then spending on it...and he has a core engine to start with.....
 
Pour a little diesel into each cylinder and leave for a few days. Then with the spark plugs out, try turning it over with a starting handle or socket and big bar on the crank nut. When left standing for years, it's usually the pistons sticking to the dry cylinder walls that make the engine appear siezed. A bit of diesel will seep down between the piston and cylinder and provide a little lubrication.

Col
 
Personally I would put oil in cylinders after the diesel before turning to lubricate the bores.
Had a friend rebuilding his Series 1 a few years back engine was seized on piston found one piston solid in bore ke pt bahsining it with a block of wood now and then , one day he hit it and it moved. when he got the piston out found the bore was near perfect just need a light hone.
If you remove the starter motor and try a large flat blade screwdriver against the ring gear teeth on flywheel you can some times get enough levergae to get engine to turn.
 
Blackburn said:
Personally I would put oil in cylinders after the diesel before turning to lubricate the bores.
Had a friend rebuilding his Series 1 a few years back engine was seized on piston found one piston solid in bore ke pt bahsining it with a block of wood now and then , one day he hit it and it moved. when he got the piston out found the bore was near perfect just need a light hone.
If you remove the starter motor and try a large flat blade screwdriver against the ring gear teeth on flywheel you can some times get enough levergae to get engine to turn.
Click to expand...
That is what I would do. Keep pouring diesel and oil in turn through all the spark plug holes. Keep trying to turn the engine both ways by various methods. Keep at it for a while, one day it might just start to turn a bit, which can then be worked back and forth until it goes right round.
 
Colthebrummie said:
There are all sorts of recipies for making penetrating fluid but diesel is dirt cheap in comparison. I guess I'm old school. When what I'm doing doesn't work, I'll change what I'm doing.

Col
Click to expand...

We are lucky as we use old atf and we also have around 4 x 25l containers of diesel petrol mix from forecourt fxckups so buying acetone our only outlay as someone else has paid for the rest...lol...
 
Thanks for all info everyone.
, I will use everything mentioned to free them up if they are stuck.
So lets say that they do move and engine turns with a bit of luck. Does that mean that engine is good ? and will work or is that just me wishful thinking o_O
If it does turn whats my next job ?
 
border said:
Thanks for all info everyone.
, I will use everything mentioned to free them up if they are stuck.
So lets say that they do move and engine turns with a bit of luck. Does that mean that engine is good ? and will work or is that just me wishful thinking o_O
If it does turn whats my next job ?
Click to expand...
I'd be tempted to Jerry rig it so you can spin it over on the starter with the plugs out and do a compression test.
 
once you get the engine turning by hand, change the oil and filter, do as @Flossie recommends and try starting it but dont rev the tatters off it. if it runs without any unusual noises and you can get it to idle smoothly it should be ok. you'll need to change the coolant before using it.

Col
 
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