P38A Remote not locking (but does unlock)

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flex38 said:
So take apart the full motor latch mechanism and then replace with new. I am willing to try, though limited in knowledge but can usually work through most things. Is there a supplier?
Click to expand...
The micro switches fitted to the lock are in a molded block of 3. Replacements are only available individually so the switch block has to be made up and the loom soldered on.
Positioning of the new switches has to be exactly right. It took me aa couple of attempts the first time I did it. Some MGF locks apparently fit and are cheaper than the Land Rover badged ones.
The locks cycling is much more likely to be the micro switches than the RF receiver.
The lock switch tests are done with a DVM.
 
Datatek said:
The micro switches fitted to the lock are in a molded block of 3. Replacements are only available individually so the switch block has to be made up and the loom soldered on.
Positioning of the new switches has to be exactly right. It took me aa couple of attempts the first time I did it. Some MGF locks apparently fit and are cheaper than the Land Rover badged ones.
The locks cycling is much more likely to be the micro switches than the RF receiver.
The lock switch tests are done with a DVM.
Click to expand...
Thankyou for this. Sat in vehicle tonight, locked with fob which locked three doors and then manually locked the drivers. Sat stil zen-like. BecM went to sleep, for 15 seconds and then wide awake and got out of vehicle after 5 minutes. This I have repeated a few times.

bought a mgf for the passenger side. Might just look for drivers side.

But Becm lack of sleep has me, somewhat in flux.
 
flex38 said:
Thankyou for this. Sat in vehicle tonight, locked with fob which locked three doors and then manually locked the drivers. Sat stil zen-like. BecM went to sleep, for 15 seconds and then wide awake and got out of vehicle after 5 minutes. This I have repeated a few times.

bought a mgf for the passenger side. Might just look for drivers side.

But Becm lack of sleep has me, somewhat in flux.
Click to expand...

MGF lock has to be the same year although you can swap parts. On my year the switches just clip in and out individually but later assemblies don't.
 
flex38 said:
Thankyou for this. Sat in vehicle tonight, locked with fob which locked three doors and then manually locked the drivers. Sat stil zen-like. BecM went to sleep, for 15 seconds and then wide awake and got out of vehicle after 5 minutes. This I have repeated a few times.

bought a mgf for the passenger side. Might just look for drivers side.

But Becm lack of sleep has me, somewhat in flux.
Click to expand...
RF interference is a common cause of the BECM not going to sleep as it should. Disconnect the aerial from the RF receiver. If the problem remains, unplug the receiver completely and see if that fixes it.
If you have access to diagnostics, turn off the EKA function and the immobilser in the BECM.
 
Datatek said:
RF interference is a common cause of the BECM not going to sleep as it should. Disconnect the aerial from the RF receiver. If the problem remains, unplug the receiver completely and see if that fixes it.
If you have access to diagnostics, turn off the EKA function and the immobilser in the BECM.
Click to expand...
I don’t have diagnostic capability. My obd which has Land Rover in the manufacture cannot even connect. And then the cheap old I have says the same :eek:. Whena few weeks back I plugged in the obd it was loaded with water there….also very damp/wet in the passenger side (another issue) I am worried that this may have stopped the ability to communicate.

Is there a image of where the aerial/receiver is Or is it where you mentioned before? I have read, some, over this issue and it almost seems to get comical, if it wasn’t tragic at the core.
 
brianp38dse said:
Hello and welcome
Key in ignition is the lock wants some electrical contact cleaner squirted in to clean the lock left to dry then some graphite powder blown in, if the little key block does not cover the key hole the BECM will not go to sleep and drain battery and so will the door lock playing up have a run through this test
Click to expand...
One this test, firstly, when I started by unplugging the latch the vehicle, Did not, lock all the other doors? What might this indicate even before, going through the test.

abandoned at the moment, “a rain (monsoon) has stopped play”
 
flex38 said:
I don’t have diagnostic capability. My obd which has Land Rover in the manufacture cannot even connect. And then the cheap old I have says the same :eek:. Whena few weeks back I plugged in the obd it was loaded with water there….also very damp/wet in the passenger side (another issue) I am worried that this may have stopped the ability to communicate.

Is there a image of where the aerial/receiver is Or is it where you mentioned before? I have read, some, over this issue and it almost seems to get comical, if it wasn’t tragic at the core.
Click to expand...
With that amount of damp/water in the car, it's no surprise you have problems. The first job should be to get the interior dry, then deal with all the potentially corroded connectors.
 
Datatek said:
With that amount of damp/water in the car, it's no surprise you have problems. The first job should be to get the interior dry, then deal with all the potentially corroded connectors.
Click to expand...
I was thinking this might be the best application…..but waiting for the Atlantic way to send me some sun for a week so I can dry out the RR.
 
Datatek said:
It will take more than a week of sun to dry out, you need a dehumidifier and fix the leak(s)
Click to expand...
I get what you say but I have no shelter. I have a dehumidifier but that’s about that and will need to take apart to find just where it is coming in from. Had headliner done and the fitter showed a suspect leak at the top of wind screen. So a place to start.
 
CAME OUT TO P38 - Battery yesterday after sitting all night 12.38, today after the same 12.29.

Door latch test 8 STEPS
1st item - 00.1 to 0.L
2) 0.L TO 00.1
3) 0.L TO 00.1
4) 0.L TO 00.1
5) 00.3
6) 0.L
7) NOTHING
8) 13.7ohm

LOOKING FOR WHAT THIS ANSWER. IS IT CDL MOTOR IS NO LONGER FUNCTIONING?

ALSO UNPLUGGED, THIS MORNING, THE INTERIOR LIGHT, as it seemed to have some corrosion and though power no, bulb will light up. (WAIT AND SEE)

Sorry for the caps

Thanks as always
 
Morning,
Today battery, 11.38...not good. Only difference was went out for the day, where performance was good, yesterday. And had unplugged the interior front light assembly.
Vehicle was unlocked.

Not sure what this all means? Other than the drain continues.
 
flex38 said:
This is my third battery, brand new, out of the box….
this one, silver batt 9000 120ah 1000cca per advertised and per label.

I’m sick of batteries!
Click to expand...
It might be brand new, but did you fully charge it before fitting? The alternator will never fully charge the battery unless you run for many hours.
 
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